Intermittent Rough Idle and CEL
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Intermittent Rough Idle and CEL
Drove to work this morning and truck ran fine. Got in to leave and started running very rough with minimal power. The truck has never done this before. Also, CEL came on. Figured I'd try and make it home. The truck would run smooth for a a little bit, then become rough again, then smooth, and so on. After about 10 minutes, the truck started to run smooth again. I turned it off, then started it about 5 times and it is still running smooth. The only thing I have done to it over the past week, is change out the serpentine belt and add some oil.
Somethign else interesting that happened, was while I was at a drive thru, I lost total power. All of my gauges went to zero, and when I pushed on the accelerator pedal, nothing happened. I changed out a 10 amp fuse under the dash, (do not remember which one) and the truck ran fine after that. Not sure if this has something to do with the rough idle or not.
2002, F-350, 200K miles 7.3l.
Somethign else interesting that happened, was while I was at a drive thru, I lost total power. All of my gauges went to zero, and when I pushed on the accelerator pedal, nothing happened. I changed out a 10 amp fuse under the dash, (do not remember which one) and the truck ran fine after that. Not sure if this has something to do with the rough idle or not.
2002, F-350, 200K miles 7.3l.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,470
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From: Pea Ridge, AR
First thought sounds like a UVCH issue.
The second issue, seems like the short in the steering column, here is a PDF on the issue.
TransmissionShifterLeverchaferepairV-2.pdf
The second issue, seems like the short in the steering column, here is a PDF on the issue.
TransmissionShifterLeverchaferepairV-2.pdf
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BigAlsPSD,
Thanks for the info. I do remember getting something from the dealer about this issue. I will check it out tomorrow and see what I get. I'll start with the simple stuff, then work from there. Thanks again.
Thanks for the info. I do remember getting something from the dealer about this issue. I will check it out tomorrow and see what I get. I'll start with the simple stuff, then work from there. Thanks again.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,470
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From: Pea Ridge, AR
Sure, Both are easy repairs in my opinion.
Although I don't think the dealer would be giving out info on chaffed wires. Probably the speed control deactivation wiring. Which is a different issue.
Although I don't think the dealer would be giving out info on chaffed wires. Probably the speed control deactivation wiring. Which is a different issue.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,826
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From: Round Rock, TX
just went through something very similar. Had a bad UVCH as well as a bad ICP sensor. When it starts running rough if you unplug the ICP sensor and it smooths out that may be your culprit. If not, could be the UVCH.
This is what mine sounded like with a partially connected harness
7.3 Powerstroke running rough - YouTube
This is what mine sounded like with a partially connected harness
7.3 Powerstroke running rough - YouTube
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Tried to start truck this morning, and would crank and try, but will not start. I put in a new CPS, but that didn't fix it. I unplugged the ICP and tried to start, but got the same response. The ICP also has oil inside of the electrical connections. I recently replaced the injector sleeves, and used the quarter mod on the UVCH, so i am not sure if one of them did not hold, or I have a badf UVCH. I can't figure out why it was running great last night after it warmed up a bit, and this morning will not even start. Any assistance would be great. Thanks.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Mesa AZ
Tried to start truck this morning, and would crank and try, but will not start. I put in a new CPS, but that didn't fix it. I unplugged the ICP and tried to start, but got the same response. The ICP also has oil inside of the electrical connections. I recently replaced the injector sleeves, and used the quarter mod on the UVCH, so i am not sure if one of them did not hold, or I have a badf UVCH. I can't figure out why it was running great last night after it warmed up a bit, and this morning will not even start. Any assistance would be great. Thanks.
If you did the 50 cent mod then I'd bet your harnesses are not loose. The quarters work very well, however it's possible that you might have a burned center pin in one of the banks. It would be nice to see what codes you have. By any chance do you have an EGT gauge with the thermocouple located in one of your exhaust manifolds? If so, did you notice high EGTs or NO EGTs while you were experiencing the rough running? This will help you figure out which bank might be dead. AutoEnginuity will tell you as well.
If you decide to check for a burned center pin, here is a photo of what it might look like.
Did you fix the chaffed wire in the steering column yet? Might want to do that first so it doesn't bite you once you get the engine running....
Good luck.
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Shake-N-Bake,
I did find the chafed wire, and I fixed it. Thanks for the .PDF with that info. It guided me through the task 100% on point for that symptom. I do not have the equipment to run the codes on the system. I am letting the battery charge now and see what happens when I try and start. I did look at the UVCH connections, and did not see any burnt connections. I read in another post that when cranking you the RPM gauge should read about 100 if the CPS is good. When cranking, I get 0 RPM's. Is there a way to test the cps with an Ohm meter to determine if it is serviceable or not? Thanks.
I did find the chafed wire, and I fixed it. Thanks for the .PDF with that info. It guided me through the task 100% on point for that symptom. I do not have the equipment to run the codes on the system. I am letting the battery charge now and see what happens when I try and start. I did look at the UVCH connections, and did not see any burnt connections. I read in another post that when cranking you the RPM gauge should read about 100 if the CPS is good. When cranking, I get 0 RPM's. Is there a way to test the cps with an Ohm meter to determine if it is serviceable or not? Thanks.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2009
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From: Pea Ridge, AR
On a 2002 I don't think the tach will move until it is started, you would have to view data from the PCM to determine. The tach movement is for all years prior though.
Where are you located maybe someone can view some data for you. Need to see Injector Control Pressure(ICP) and Injector Pressure Regulator(IPR) duty cycle.
200k miles you might have some injectors starting to wear. Have you tried plugging in the block heater for a few hours? At this point without codes or data you are kind of at a stand still.
Where are you located maybe someone can view some data for you. Need to see Injector Control Pressure(ICP) and Injector Pressure Regulator(IPR) duty cycle.
200k miles you might have some injectors starting to wear. Have you tried plugging in the block heater for a few hours? At this point without codes or data you are kind of at a stand still.
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I am located in Colonial Heights, Va 23801. It usually does not get below 30 degrees here. Currently it is 46 degrees. I am charging the battery now, but I can plug in the heater tonight and see what happens in the A.M. Thanks for your assistance.
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Intermittent Rough Idle and Cel Update
I got my hand on a Ohm Meter today and checked both sides of the engine. The readings are below. Is it safe to say that I need to pull the VC from the Driver's side to investigate further, or am I totally off course here? Thanks.
Passenger side between "I" and "C"
#7 inj 5.1 Ohm
#5 Inj 5.0 Ohm
#3 Inj 4.8 Ohm
#1 Inj 4.8 Ohm
Passenger side between "G" and battery ground
#7 Gp 0.4 Ohm
#5 Gp 0.4 Ohm
#3 Gp 0.4 Ohm
#1 Gp 0.4 Ohm
Driver's side between G" and battery ground
#8 Gp 1.2 Ohm
#6 Gp 1.3 Ohm
#4 Gp 0.0 Ohm....The digital read out on the Ohm Meter did not move
#2 Gp 0.0 Ohm....The digital read out on the Ohm Meter did not move
Driver's side between "I" and "C
#8 Inj 0.0 Ohm....The digital read out on the Ohm Meter did not move
#6 Inj 0.0 Ohm....The digital read out on the Ohm Meter did not move
#4 Inj 0.0 Ohm....The digital read out on the Ohm Meter did not move
#2 Inj 0.0 Ohm....The digital read out on the Ohm Meter did not move
Passenger side between "I" and "C"
#7 inj 5.1 Ohm
#5 Inj 5.0 Ohm
#3 Inj 4.8 Ohm
#1 Inj 4.8 Ohm
Passenger side between "G" and battery ground
#7 Gp 0.4 Ohm
#5 Gp 0.4 Ohm
#3 Gp 0.4 Ohm
#1 Gp 0.4 Ohm
Driver's side between G" and battery ground
#8 Gp 1.2 Ohm
#6 Gp 1.3 Ohm
#4 Gp 0.0 Ohm....The digital read out on the Ohm Meter did not move
#2 Gp 0.0 Ohm....The digital read out on the Ohm Meter did not move
Driver's side between "I" and "C
#8 Inj 0.0 Ohm....The digital read out on the Ohm Meter did not move
#6 Inj 0.0 Ohm....The digital read out on the Ohm Meter did not move
#4 Inj 0.0 Ohm....The digital read out on the Ohm Meter did not move
#2 Inj 0.0 Ohm....The digital read out on the Ohm Meter did not move
Last edited by Dustmaster; Feb 1, 2012 at 06:10 PM. Reason: Correction to information
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,470
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From: Pea Ridge, AR
I would say that if you are certain you maintained good connection with the pins, then you will be going under the drivers side VC, Looks like if it is not connected fully it will be pulled out on the front side of the head partially out. Keep us posted.