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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Alternator issue?

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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 01:23 PM
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Alternator issue?

Ok I have a 83 f100 with the 5.0 V8....first started off with a dead battery so went to advanced had the battery checked and it was bad....replaced the battery truck was fine for about two days and battery was dead again....so switched out the alternator with a reman from advance auto and when I started up the truck the battery light was on....but the battery on the charger to make sure it had a good charge and still have the light.....went the other day for a short trip and when I went to start the truck back up there wasn't enough juice to get it to turn over and needed a jump....I'm wondering if I put the wires on backwards on the alternator or did I miss something, any ideas would be helpful

Bryan
 
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 01:26 PM
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That truck has an external voltage regulator. You should pull that and have it checked.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 01:32 PM
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Where Is that located at and what am I'm looking for?
 
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 01:55 PM
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Squareish box with a large flat plug, @3" accross, I believe its next to the radiator on the passenger side. If not there, look over by the starter solenoid.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 02:05 PM
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Thanks appreciate the help
 
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Archion
Squareish box with a large flat plug, @3" accross, I believe its next to the radiator on the passenger side. If not there, look over by the starter solenoid.
Yea, mine is a silver coloured box right underneath the solenoid.

(old pic guys. Cables have been replaced, starter rewired correctly)
 
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 06:48 PM
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I'm thinking we should always (usually?) replace the regulator when replacing the alternator. My alternator went out some time ago and I bought a new one. It had a sticker on it saying "Always replace the regulator when replacing the alternator." I thought "yeah, right" and installed the alternator - but it didn't work. Sure enough, the regulator was bad as well.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 07:14 PM
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Or, it was just the regulator to begin with, and the alternator was fine.....?
 
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
Or, it was just the regulator to begin with, and the alternator was fine.....?
Well, in my case things like screws and round ***** of copper fell out of the alternator when I pulled it. Plus, it had a stir-fried smell to it. (Oh, wrong thread.) And there were no wires connected to the slip ring and it slipped up and down the armature. So, I kinda guessed it had a problem.

Apparently it fried the regulator when it failed as I can't imagine the regulator doing such mechanical damage to the alternator.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 10:02 PM
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Scrap all of that gotford. Do the 3g upgrade so you dont burn your truck up. You will be glad you did and you can just use an alt from the jy for $25.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by bruno2
Scrap all of that gotford. Do the 3g upgrade so you dont burn your truck up. You will be glad you did and you can just use an alt from the jy for $25.
Maybe - once I figure out what it is I'm supposed to scrap. Oh yeah, and once I get a few other things fixed then I can scrap something that's already working.

Seriously, the 1G alternator on Dad's truck seems to be doing well. If it were a 2G then I'd have a good reason to change. Or, if I had some accessory that took electricity. But, the way it is the little 65 amp alternator does the job.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 05:14 AM
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No "fire plug" with the 1G.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 06:24 AM
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ok would like some more details on the 3g setup....i am running a sub and amp so a little more would be good....what all am i scraping and what exactly and im putting in?
 
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 06:37 AM
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You get the 130A internally regulated alternator from a mid '90's Taurus/Sable/Lincoln.
These cars had electric fans that need a lot of current.
http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=75
The one you want has two holes between the three sets of paired ribs on the front.
There are a couple of mounting variations, so choose the style that fits your truck.
Then you need a large charging cable and fuse holder, plus the 3G's pigtail.
The stock alternator in your truck only puts out 65A, the wiring in your truck can't handle twice that much current.
Be prepared to lose the ammeter, if you have one. It can't handle it either.
You can buy a conversion kit from RJM if you like, or try and do it yourself.
There are MANY threads on the "3G swap"

RJM Injection Tech — 3G Alternator Harness
RJM Injection Tech — Alternator Charge Cable Kit
 
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 06:48 AM
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Here is some more info on doing the swap plus a longer list of donor cars/trucks. This mod is extremely simple and it may very well work for you as a direct swap with no mods needed.

3G alternator FACTS (its wins agian!) - FSB Forums

Most people run bigger positive and negative cables for the upgrade too.
 
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