I know I should run a diagnostic check to get the codes, but I dont want to spend the money, because I think I know the problem and I want to get the best guess from some of you experts.

So the CE light will come on when pulling away from a stoplight, and it feels like the engine is missing, kind of low power and then the light will go out and it runs fine. It will come on randomly and stay on for a few seconds and then go out, or a minute or two, then go out.

So I was thinking UVCH, so I started to pull the driver side VC, and when I got to the last bolt against the firewall, it wasnt there! So Im thinking crap, someone has been in here before. I pull the VC and the UVCH is cockeyed just a little bit, but its still plugged in AND the Ford clip has already been installed in that side. So I pushed it in a little bit and left it as it was, because I dont want to leave a quarter in there, to come loose when that plastic inevitably breaks, and ends up in the valvetrain. The truck still does the same thing, so I am thinking if it is the UVCH, then it must be on the passenger side.

But before I tear into that side, because it looks harder than the drivers side, I just wanted to get some opinions.

I am trying to avoid spending $100+ on the diagnostic check for it to just tell me P1316 or whatever it is.

So the question is, do these symptoms sound like a UVCH, or a CPS? Im just looking for your best guess. Thanks in advance for your input here.

 

My best guess is to pull the VC and check the UVCH. Besides, it will give you practice for when you need to do injectors, glow plugs, or anything else in there. . Also check the wires that run on top of the VC.

Why was the connection cocked if it has the clip on it?

 

Sounds like UVCH issues. Why not Ohm the pins outside the pass. side valve cover before you pull it. Not really any harder, just looks that way. Might should have some of the Ford clips on hand also.

 

Now my computer has crashed, so im replying from phone! The plug was out a little on the driver side but i think the clip holds it in enough to make good contact. Yes i have the Ford clips on hand

 

Have you seen this THREAD? re: UVCH Burned Center Pin

 

Depending on the mileage the UVCH could also be bad. I have had some that look fine, but ohm out with high resistance. Swap out the UVCH and the problems went away. You should see if you can get anyone near you with AE or a SCMT. The other thing to look at is running it by a transmission shop. They will almost always scan your truck for free with their "Free Diagnostic" check. Just hang out and get the codes from the tech.

 

Studawg... What you are describing sounds exactly like how my truck acted up when the UVCH came disconnected.

Open up the passenger side and check it out. What the others said tho is also something you should do. Ohm out the pins before opening up the VC to make sure the harness itself isn't bad. If you do need replacements, check with Parts Guy Ed, (www.partsguyed.com) for the parts. The harnesses are about $60 a side if I remember correctly. So are the VC gaskets which have a pass-through built into them for the electrical.

 

Stu, the passenger side is a piece of cake...remove IC tube (two clamps), remove the VC bolts (I went straight down on the rear one with a swivel, broke it loose and then removed by hand with a deep socket to turn the bolt.). Half hour tops...

 

UVCH is the cheapest so I would go there first.

How bad is it missing? Also what did the ford clip look like? I used the plastic ford clips and they are just small plastic wedges. Is that what yours looked like?

I also say on the passenger side it just looks harder. Once you get the intercooler ducting out of the way and a few wires it will look much clearer. Some say you have to loosen the Compressor bracket but you don't. You can fish the valve cover around it.

I suppose if they used the ford wedges they may not have pushed them in till they clicked and it may have worked loose again? Not puting the rear VC bolt back in make me think they were not very motivated...

 

Thanks To all for the responses some good info. i am now trying to get the bolts off the valve cover but cant get the dipstick tube nut off. It is twisting the dipstick tube so far that i swear its gonna break or cause a leak at the base of stick, and i have no computer so i cant search for it! Ughhh. I have tried wedging a screw driver to keep the DS bracket from turning but nothing seems to work, also using PB blaster and Deep Creap

 

Use a backup wrench under the bracket on the nut. The top nut is only to hold down the bracket.

 

I dont understand, the only place to get a wrench on is on the nut that im trying to get off, that seems to be seized to the bracket, no room under the bracket, trying to wedge things between bracket and VC but not working

 

Mine is a stud with a nut on it. I would spray it with liquid wrench or some product like that. Dont get in a hurry let it work..If it still wont come off you could try a little heat and see if that will help. Mine came right off but yours could be rusted on ...

 

I know you are in the middle of it and you don't have a computer but if you get a chance to watch this video it's pretty good. I wish I had seen it before I did mine.

Some points it makes.

Buzz test to determine which side is bad... Good but most of us can't perform a buzz test.

The exhaust manifold temperature difference between the two side to show you which side is bad. This is pretty cool and I think I will do this next time.

Removing the HIDDEN nut on the crank case vent. I did not do this and had to go get new o rings.

Checking for burnt pins.... I did not know to do this. My truck only acted up three times for a few minutes each hopefully I am ok. Next time I have it off I will check the pins...

and last this guy is a Ford Tech and he used the 50 cent mod instead of the Ford factory part! Next time I am doing the 50 cent mod...



Let us know how it works out for you..

7.3 Diesel Powerstroke misfire runs rough code P1316 injector wire harness connection - YouTube

 

well, I got that nut off and all the nuts on the PS VC. The ones toward the front were really on there tight. I open it up, and it has the Ford wedge in it and harness looks to be connected properly. however, I was able to push the connector into the gasket a little bit further. The pins on the harness looked good, didnt look like any had arched or burned. I decided to go the quarter route, and put one in there after I took the ford wedge out. Anyway, I dont think I have fixed anything but we will see. I wish I had just done the quarter thing on the DS to be sure, but I am starting to think it is something else anyway.