After re-reading your posts...it almost sounds like the dealer might have checked the IDM harness at the IDM connector. If so, then the creamy stuff is most likely the XG-12 grease. Perhaps you can give them a call in the morning and get some additional details (if possible). The question I would ask is how did they check the IDM harness? (from the engine side or the IDM side?) Did it look like the inner fender liner had been removed recently?

 

I had wondered about this too, when I got into the IDM. That fender liner did not look like it had ever been removed, so I dont think they got to it that way.

 

So I have the IDM out and I sprayed the connector and the place where it plugs into the IDM with electronics cleaner and am letting it dry out. I cleaned out the terminals and pins with pipe cleaners. Do I need to actually take the IDM apart? And if so, do I just take the 3 bolts out and then pry it open? Or should I just plug it back in tomorrow and see how it runs?

 

I've never opened up one myself but it looks like the cover plate can be opened by just removing the screws (like the PCM). There have been posts on here before where some have opened up the IDM and discovered water damage. Did any water come out of the IDM when you moved it around?

If you think it's sealed and no water is inside then you might just want to plug it back in once the connectors are cleaned. It's possible there was just water in the connector and it caused your issues. That would be the most ideal solution.

It's kinda hard to recommend what to do since you stated you simply want to sell the vehicle. It might be more practical to locate a known good IDM (possibly from a salvage yard) and put that in there so you can see if that solves your problem. If you just clean the connector, then the truck might run well for a while but then the symptoms could return at the worse possible time...such as during a test drive by a prospective buyer...

Since you stated that it looked like water was in the connector, it's a reasonable bet that it was in the IDM as well. Hate to lose a sale on a $150 part that would be easy to change right now...

If it turns out that the IDM is fine, then you will have a spare for your own truck (you do have another truck you are keeping....correct? )

Just throwing ideas out there....

 

No water came out of it when I took it out. It looks sealed. If It doesnt work when I put it back on, I may swap it out with my own to see if it changes. But I hate to tamper with my beloved Excursion, which I dont want to EVER sell. I see that I can get remanufactured ones from Northern Auto parts for 255 or 145 after the core charge. I looked on car-part.com and they are more than that for old used ones. Is there another place that you know of? On another note, I will also be able to pull codes off this thing tomorrow. I should be receiving a new toy from the UPS man.

 

Wow, I just saw I can get reman ones off of ebay for $139 all day long.

 

You'll probably get more codes with the re manufactured one lol. Surprised you didn't pull the one out of your other truck. I can understand not putting parts from a good running truck into something that is having problems. Good luck!

 

Well, I put the IDM back in after I cleaned the connections, and Im still getting a p1316 code for the IDM. No CE light at first, but then it came on. Still off and on intermittently. I think I either need a new IDM or I have a frayed wire in the harness somewhere between the IDM and the 2 UVCHs. Does that sound about right to you Shake? Not getting a p1273 code anymore, though.

 

P1316 means there are some IDM codes present. Did you order AE or something that will pull the enhanced power train codes? The P12xx series codes are part of the enhanced codes so P1273 may not be reported if your code reader isn't of the proper kind.

Are you able to run a buzz test now? How about a cylinder contribution test?

Right now I am not thinking IDM because you aren't getting any of the other associated codes such as 1298, 1668 or 1670. Intermittent check engine light on an otherwise decent running engine make me suspect a possible weak spot on the wiring or solenoid/injector issues. I presume the engine is running ok...is that correct?

If you can pull the IDM specific codes, then I would suggest that you clear the codes and get the check engine light to come on again. If P1273 returns, then it's time to try PaysonPSD's suggestion and swap injector solenoids. It was actually a great suggestion in the beginning, but since you didn't have a way of re-checking the codes it wouldn't help you much. Now it appears that you have a way of checking codes so we should start with a fresh sheet of troubleshooting paper (so to speak...)

 

I have a superchips flashpak that I bought for my truck and can read and clear codes off of other 7.3s. Kill two birds with one stone kinda thing.

I thought I found a spot on the harness where it goes over the DS VC from the IDM, right before it turns into that big square connector, where it was rubbing the insulation off a wire, right at the end of the wire loom. So I taped that up good with electrical tape. But no dice, still have a ce light and code. Is there anywhere else, specifically, that the wires are known to chafe? If its not in the wires, maybe it is an injector or solenoid. But, now I am not getting a 1273 code like I was before, just the 1316.

 

By the way, I have a guy coming to look at and drive the truck in an hour, so Im not gonna go back into the VCs just yet. I have told him the problem Im having. He says his dad has been working on diesels for 50 years and doesnt seem too concerned with it. I just really want to get it solved first but....I do think it is minor, it is just matter of figuring out what. A more skilled mechanic with better diagnostic tools would have probably figured this out in an hour. Thanks again for all the help.

 

If this guy doesnt buy this truck tonight, I think my next move is to swap IDMs with my truck and see if that changes anything. If it doesnt, then Im thinking it would be a bad solenoid. By the way, this truck only has 141,000 miles.

 

NO I didnt do this, I have it all put back together presently. This may be my next move. I received an AP pigtail from Riffraff a couple weeks ago and tried testing that passenger side VC from outside but dont think I did it right. After rereading this thread a few times, several other threads, and som of those TBs from GB REMAN, I dont think it is the IDM. I think I am having either UVCH, injector, or solenoid problems.

Question, what can I test on that pigtail by measuring the resistance on the outside of a VC? Would it be combined gasket-harness-solenoid-injector? If that is so, could I assume that if all values were equal then that would probably NOT be my problem?

The other thing I do not know is that I am not sure I have the capability of detecting the lower level codes (P12xx) on this superchips flashpak. It shows the 1316 but that is all now.

 

Well I swapped the IDM out of my perfectly good running Ex (Lord, forgive me for what I have done) into the F350, cleared the codes, test drove it, and no codes or CE light. Runs like a top.

So the plan is to pick one up from the salvage yard down the street, and be done with it.

I wish I would have tried this sooner, but then I wouldnt have learned so much. Anyway, thanks for all the help from everyone here!

 

Well I put in an IDM from a salvage yard, still got the P1316 code. If figured it was a bad one so I took it back and ordered one from RockAuto, which is a GB remanufactured IDM. Still getting the P1316 code and CE light! I got no codes or CE light with the one from my EX so I figured that was it. What the H is going on here?!?!?!?