Hi all

So I've torn down the front clip on the '62. Waiting to go in are:

360/C6 using trans-dapt BBF engine mount and crossmember. The instruction says to use the 4qt passenger car oil pan...this FE has front sump. Do I need a rear sump to clear the crossmember?

Do I have to cut out the stock tranny mount crossmember and replace it with the transdapt crossmember? Both are bolt-in's but I have a welder.

I measured out the whole length of the drive package and it's about 4" longer than the 223/4spd in it now. Will I need to shorten the driveshaft or is there one that will fit?

Speedway's disc brake kit and a booster/master cyl from a '79. Any tips on getting the rod length right?

I've been having a hard time duplicating the haze gray color (it was a navy truck with no paint code on the door plate). Battleship gray, haze gray, USN gray, call it what you want but I've tried every shade of mixing black, white and blue and still no match. Does anyone know the mix of this color or where to find it pre-mixed?
I plan on shooting it in satin once it's all back together. I love the patina but once it hits a coastal clime it'll rust apart. Sad.

 

AFAIK, the USN is still painting their vehicles the same color: Sea Gray. Suggest you contact an automotive paint supply store in San Diego.

Battleship gray is used on ships, never heard of the other two grays.

 

The Truck pan should clear the new crosmember. Truck is four quarts in the pan and one in the filter.

Remove the old bellhousing cross member as it is only in the way. With the new front engine cradle and added transmission mount there is more than enough support.

If you are not using a power booster the rod you currently have in the 62 will activate the 79 master. The 79 master will bolt directly to your current reinforcement plate. You may need to add a bit or take some off depending if you have any drag or lag in operation. Mig weld some material to the tip or grind some off.

Battle ship grey is sometimes called smoke grey by rustoleum.

 

FE trucks take six quarts of oil with a filter change.

The owners manual sez this: Five quarts *

Towards the bottom of the page, the manual sez:

* Add one quart with filter change.

I don't have an owners manual any longer (gave my last '65 original to Randy-37 Ford Guy), so I cannot list the page number where this info is stated.

So, you can ask Randy or "Squire" Don or anyone else who has the manual for verification.

 

No wonder the things leak........overfilling

Garbz

 

.... ....

 

LOL, Most of my FE's hanging around came from cars.........With the exception of two rear sump 4x4 pans.

Garbz

 

I am using a power booster. So a rod lengthening is in order then? Should be easy enough to cut and thread the current rod and use a threaded insert until I get it right.
Thanks for the inputs so far, ford sea gray is a european ford metallic gray color. Still looking!

 

Here are some pics:


The 223/BW T-98 are out and the frame rails cleaned. I knocked out the transmission crossmember to ease the installation of the new package.
Some folks have said this is a bad idea and will weaken the frame, but here are my thoughts. The suspension and weight of the engine are acting on this part of the frame rails with a torsion moment stronger opposite that of the torsion moment of the cab mounts. In any case, I'm not worried about the cab mounts sagging. The weight of the engine and the engine crossmember mounted on the top rail should counteract that.
I've exhausted the search functions with no luck so I'm going to answer some of my own questions here:

No, you do not need a rear sump with a Transdapt engine cradle and mount pads. It fits with enough space to get the sump plug out.

Yes, the original crossmember should come out. Good luck getting a C6 in there with it in place. This also means that the engine and tranny must come out together if either need to be pulled - but I would have had to do that anyway if I had to pull the T-98.

I think if I skip adding the booster, the dual pot master should bolt right up. The current bracket would put the top of the booster above the hood line. Some tabbing is in order.





The original long horizontal oil filter will not fit. I should either get the vertical car filter mount or use a short filter.





The pulleys have three more sheaves than I need, and will come off. The fan also has a lengthener that I don't need. When attached to the C6 the snout should come up to correct height and the fan blades won't hit the frame.



Exhaust clearance is fine on passenger side. I think I still need to move the motor about 1/2" backward.



It looks like there's room for a pipe to the driver's side mid dump manifold. I am a little concerned how the mount pads mount up and down vice side to side, this has to contribute to a shortened life of the mount pad, especially this close to the exhaust. If the mount pad were only 1/2" longer I could mount it horizontally and the engine would be compressing the rubber pad vice mostly imparting a shear force on it. I can't think of a better way to kill an engine mount in short order. Are there rear dump manifolds for the driver's side?



Looks like I need to offset a little to the pass side. The engine was eyeball centered in the frame but the tunnel is offset. Should be okay though.

 

Actually I have never heard of sea gray. True, battleship gray was used on battleships but since we don't have active ones the color hasn't been used in a long time. All USN ships are painted haze gray Mil-PRF-24758A or Federal Standard 595 #26270. I use this paint color every week of the last 13 years and have it made up for me since I had the use of the very rare Federal Standard Color Chip folder for matching. The only way the OP could get that color is to have that chip folder or have a sample of paint on a blank white card. Haze Gray, 5-H below as per USN

 

That haze gray looks much closer than anything I've been able to mix so far!
So this is model paint then? I think if I can find a fit there, I could have an automotive paint shop mix it up. I looked up the FS color chip catalog...at $39 PER swatch, that'll be an expensive undertaking.
Thanks for posting that!

 

Actually those chips are off a site discussing colors used by the Navy over time. Good model paints simply try to copy the Navy colors. Some are pretty good and some aren't. My haze gray is specially made up for me by the Kelly-Moore store in Pleasant Hill. If you need a sample card then let me know and when on the ship I will make one either in semi-gloss or satin.

 

Hola

I know it's been a long time since I rapped at ya, but here's some updates:

The Speedway Disc brake kit went on pretty easy. The main challenge here was how to route the brake lines. I ended up using the existing routing, and opening the hole up a bit. The section that passes through the frame between the retaining clip grooves almost didn't allow the clips to go on from both sides of the frame, so I also had to pound the inboard retaining clip a bit flatter so I could get a bite on the clip groove in the hose connector. There is a bracket supplied but it necessitates running the hose under the frame. I don't want any hard line going protruding out from inside the frame rails, so I chose the hard way.


It was also necessary to grind the nub off the GM calipers thusly to ensure freedom of motion. The instructions state this, and since I don't read them it threw me for a loop.


Then the motor and tranny went in.

No issues centering it up. Even though the cab tunnel is slightly offset, I don't see any interference with kickdown rods, throttle actuators etc...


Drivers side exhaust clears fine.


So does the oil pan.


I've got a bead on a booster, bracket, and complete pedal assembly from a '65 that will negate the need to adjust booster rod length, etc. and will fit under the hood and over the 390.
More to follow on that.

Cheers,
HK

 

And we were just talking about her, too. Hard to read but haze gray is shown in the USN camo scheme as color 5-H. There is also an Ocean gray used.



Larger image: http://www.history.navy.mil/photos/i...000/n73641.jpg

 

I recommend changing from a truck oil filter mount to a car vertical for more side clearance as well.