I am changing my front differential (ratio) and the book says to take apart both side wheel ends and pull out the axles. I took the left side apart and pulled the C-clip and slide off the carrier assembly without taking the right wheel end apart. Now I am in the cleaning stage.

Has anyone try this short cut and did it work?

I am not looking forward to putting it back up there with the permetex drying away.

 

I just did all the ujoints on my TTB and I'm thinking if you remove The driveshaft and the drivers hub/axle then TW passenger side will slide apart at the slip joint if you pull the diff with passenger hub/axle still in

 

You could slide it back on without pulling the passenger side but it'll be tricky. You'll need everything to line up and slide right in.

 

I did it on my f250, myself. The d44 isn't as heavy but get help.
Undo the clamp on the inner ujoint boot and remove drivers axle.
Undo the front diff bolts and have someone catch the housing. Slide off inner axle shaft.
It would be easy with help. But it's definatly doable.

 

dont bother putting the C-clip back in either. run a 1" spring with some decent stiffness. not valve spring stiff though. this will give plenty of pressure and keep the axles in place. also makes trail repairs easier.

I would also install 4 Studs into the housing/thirdmember. this will make installing it much easier and less likely to have the RTV getting messed up. as for pulling both sides, I did and replaced the ujoints since i didnt want to get back in there

 

Thanks for the advice, esp the guide studs. Just an FYI the Ford manual says the the right axle has to be marked prior to disassembly and reassembled the same way. It must be timed to keep in phase. Thats why I pulled the C-clip, anyway it goes in will be OK.

 

That woulda been good to know saturday lol.

 

yes being in phase is really important.

 

Stupid question time. Have people had problems with the valve spring? I have a stock Chevy 350 valve spring in my stub shaft and wondering if it's going to cause a problem.

 

not that i am aware of. I just got a spring from the hardware store based on what my aussie locker instructions mentioned and guys on FSB.

 

So where is this spring that you guys are talking about.

 

We put the spring in the passenger side slip shaft.. Circled in this pic..



Pic of slip shaft with a Chevy 350 valve spring. Take Kemicalburns advice, don't use a valve spring if people have had problems with it. I was unaware that it isn't right for the job. I'll get a new spring and keep it in the glove box incase I have problems on the trail. LOL


Before you can do this though, you have to pull the u-joint out and weld the end cap in place so the spring and outer shaft doesn't push the cap out.. Here's a pic of that.

 

strokin , since you welded the cap you are probably fine with the spring thats in there. I didnt bother welding mine due to running the lighter spring, less force to worry about.

 

Cool deal. You had me worried! LOL I'll still keep an extra in the glove box just in case, but I think it'll be good. I had to push the outer shaft in pretty good to get it in. That was kinda a PITA.

 

I would also recommend to the OP to install some spicer 760x ujoints in the front axles. if you have access to additional grease be sure to repack the caps as ive noticed most ujoints these days are running a little shy in that department. then after the joints are installed in the axle put a couple minor tac welds on the cap/yolk. this will help keep everything from blowing out on you on the trail. unless of course your really flogging the dog with tires larger then 35's and locked up.