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Just inherited a 76' trailer special ex cab long bed from my daughter. I hate long beds on anything but a reg cab so the bed is doomed. The side are excellent but there's holes in the floor so I don't have a prob cutting it. I just would like some input from guys who've done it. I've heard of guys doing this but it seems pretty tough. Any tips?
But I've seen people cut about six inches before the front of the bed then take out what you need farther back then weld back on the front six inches. Does it have the front tank door? It is a 76 so I wouldn't think so.
Redsuperduty did it the best to me a lot less body work.
But I've seen people cut about six inches before the front of the bed then take out what you need farther back then weld back on the front six inches. Does it have the front tank door? It is a 76 so I wouldn't think so.
Redsuperduty did it the best to me a lot less body work.
I have to add that shortening the frame like RED did is the absolute worst way to do it. You always "Z" the frame and add fishplate backers on each side.
One good dip in the road and the truck is going to buckle like a trampoline.
Ya, I was going to say that. Saw a thread a while back where someone did that. I was just referring to Red's thread cause I like the way he did the bed side.
Also I think he boxed the frame so that added some strength.
Ya, I was going to say that. Saw a thread a while back where someone did that. I was just referring to Red's thread cause I like the way he did the bed side.
Also I think he boxed the frame so that added some strength.
I just realized I failed to mention he (RED) did a fantastic job shortening the bed. But the frame...
I snagged those pics off of Fordification... I couldn't find the pics where he backed the welds.
Thanks! It's actually a single rear tank, odd because it's a "Trailer Special". I would think dual tanks would've been standard equip. Definatelt doing a Z notch. While a butt weld in a diagonal is better than a vertical butt I want more radial strength. I've done a few frame stretches and notches so I think I can get through that part good enough. The Bed is my main concern. I'll get some pics up.
I have to add that shortening the frame like RED did is the absolute worst way to do it. You always "Z" the frame and add fishplate backers on each side.
One good dip in the road and the truck is going to buckle like a trampoline.
Josh
I am a certified welder, a proper butt weld is stronger that the steel used in our 70's truck frames. I didnt need to, but did plate it on the back with the cut out pieces. I took an inch of hieght out of them so they fit pefrectly in the C channel frame. In effect, it is double framed at the splice. There is no right way or wrong way to do this, as long as a good welder does the welding and the correct measurements are done. I agree, the angle cut looks cool but substandard welds will still let it break apart. There isnt a dip in any road that will break my splice.
Thanks for the compliments on the bed, I'll round up some more pics.
Also consider that when shortening the bed by removing material from the front, you will be losing the front stake pockets. That was done on my truck which I am OK with. I put the cut-down long bed on a SWB truck frame.
79fordpilot is exactly right. It wouldn't be a big deal to graft the inside ''bulge'' and the pocket holes in there, I just welded the rest of them up for a clean look. Around min. 3:50 in this video of my other truck you will see step by step of shortening a long bedside, including moving a stake pocket hole. 1978 Ford F150 Ranger Lariat 4x4 - YouTube
79fordpilot is exactly right. It wouldn't be a big deal to graft the inside ''bulge'' and the pocket holes in there, I just welded the rest of them up for a clean look. Around min. 3:50 in this video of my other truck you will see step by step of shortening a long bedside, including moving a stake pocket hole. 1978 Ford F150 Ranger Lariat 4x4 - YouTube
Stop putting music in stuff I can't watch it hmmpf.
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