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Coolant Bypass Filter Writeup

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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 11:24 PM
  #16  
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From: Ft Scott
Fleetgard, Donaldson, Wix, Baldwin and probably others market them, I'm sure there is some info on their sites.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 11:44 PM
  #17  
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After doing some searching the 4071 is four units of sca. Looks like 2 to 3 is a good number on the scale. From what I saw too much can gel but not for sure. I'm going to try and find some test strips Monday. Might run to Ford and see if they have some. Looks like they offer up to 10 so I dont see four changing a whole lot to the extreme side anyway.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 06:41 AM
  #18  
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Is this the generally accepted way to splice the filter in to the system? I was thinking that some used another method and tied it into an existing fitting somewhere.

I am serious about getting this done. Hmmm, a $70 filter setup or a $200+ water pump and the risk of damaging a lot of other stuff. Seems like a no-brainer to me.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 08:36 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by oldbird1965
How, like Darin said, can it not overcharge or under charge? Must have a micro chip in it, LOL!
the filters spoken about so far in this thread are the "full release" type.
this means,they act the same way as if you pour in the liquid SCA additive ok? so must test the coolant,and use the correct filter for the amount of SCA the system needs to be replenished.

now,we can talk about a more advanced type coolant filter.
a coolant filter that releases SCA to the system on a "release as needed" type bases.
these filters are made by a bunch of different brands and all work in slightly different ways that react to the coolant and say hey,we're getting a bit low on SCA's now.time to release a bit to replenish the levels.......... hold the phone.we've been over this already oldbird.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10666620

fyi,i will be running the Penray Need Release Coolant Filter #NF2088
its sports the common 11/16-16 thread which fits the common NAPA/WIX filter head.the one bad12jr (and myself) use: #4019
after this second wix basic type removes most of the factory sand casting.

example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Penray-NF208...item1e6a34e3e5

how it works:
http://www.penray.com/images/NeedRel...eSellSheet.pdf

it's setup for use with the common fleet charge coolant.
7. What is meant by the term Fill-For-Life technology?
The Fill-for-Life alternative provides for easy, low cost monitoring of the coolant inhibitor and freeze protection levels. Fill-For-Life is an extended service maintenance program developed by Fleet Charge and Penray researchers. It is very simple. Users simply install a Penray Need-Release filter on an engine coolant system (up to 30 gallons). Every 18 months the filter is replaced. This practice eliminates scheduled coolant changes.
http://www.fleetchargeantifreeze.com/faq.htm#7

though i have the IDI,our coolant systems must be maintained the same way before ELC was approved for latter diesel engines.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 09:15 AM
  #20  
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Your right 250, I just have trouble getting my mind around this. Its probably very simple and I'm trying to make it difficult. I also have a hard time 'reading' the strips. Maybe the strips that I got were old or I have **** poor eyes. If I could only read these damn things then I wouldn't waste my money changing my coolant every 15K and spending the money on the more expensive 'pre loaded' SCA's. I've been this way for eight years, I have a real problem with those test strips. I just wonder if anybody else has this problem and will not come out of the closet about it? OK, now everybody knows that I'm a complete idiot when it comes to test strips!
 
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 11:11 AM
  #21  
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250 thanks for the info. Reps sent man.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 12:42 PM
  #22  
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Ya, thanks 250, great info. I'm gonna get me one of those filters, seem like a good idea. I think I'll just follow your info..
 
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 11:08 AM
  #23  
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Great write up! I have one question in hopes of getting some insight..

When you spliced both heater hoses for the filter hook-up, would bridging the two heater hoses negate heat transfer through the core, and instead bypass it through the filter? Can one just separate a single heater hose and place the filter in line?

Well, two questions, LOL! Awesome info regardless!
 
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 11:54 AM
  #24  
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My heat will roast you out but I also have a 203 thermostat. I don't see why you couldn't. Just not sure how much restriction it would cause?
 
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 12:31 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Midwest Dually
When you spliced both heater hoses for the filter hook-up, would bridging the two heater hoses negate heat transfer through the core, and instead bypass it through the filter? Can one just separate a single heater hose and place the filter in line?
I was wondering the same thing. That is why I thought I had seen someone else tee into another line someplace. Maybe it was teh same lines, just in a different spot since a lot of guys mount them on the driver side of the top rail of the core support.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 01:39 PM
  #26  
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You can also use the 3/8" plug on the side of the water pump as a supply and tap into the coolant bottle line for a return.

I'd also recommend putting a set of shut off valves on the lines so you won't loose much coolant when changing the filter.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 02:04 PM
  #27  
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I was going to do that but I have no where to mount it good on the driver side. I think I'm going to move it this summer down to the rail.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 02:05 PM
  #28  
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You could still mount it on the passenger side. You would just have to run the hose to it.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 05:08 PM
  #29  
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IDI engine.not PSD.


i went very simple.directly in line with the heater core.


what happens when the filter plugs?
it stops throwing heat in the cab (well,you notice a great reduction so you know its time to change.)
mostly with the first filter though.the second hasn't done this,and i guess it's not.it's been thousands of miles now,so i guess it's time to just install my good filter.
anyway,it's a nice way to know when it's plugging up.
what happens when you go to change it without shut off valves though?
if you have a rag handy and your quick about screwing the new filter on,you won't even hardly get the engine wet (if at all.) so little,you'll never dream of cluttering up the engine bay with valves if you try it first without 'em.just as long as you keep the rad cap on.she'll gurgle for air and drain slow see?
if you rather,you could just drain a gallon of coolant into a clean bucket.that's all it takes to drain the coolant level below the filter.change it out,and pour your coolant back in.or if your flushing anyway.........
it's worth it imho to keep a clean simple setup,but most disagree with me in the idi section lol.they like they're bypasses and valves. whatever ya like works.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 05:12 PM
  #30  
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My problem with running it in the heater hose line is if you have put in the heater shut off valve for when you have Max A/C running. I'd much rather have the heater hoses shut off when the Max A/C is running and have the coolant filter somewhere else.
 
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