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I found out today that the balance shaft on my 2valve V10 is what is causing my engine noises. Is it possible to just swap out the heads with some used ones, or is there more work involved than that. I just bought the truck 2 weeks ago and just want to enjoy it for awhile. I was told that new heads are $2k from the dealer but there online for about $400!? I have a line on a set from an RV that I can get for cheap, but I was told I can't just swap out heads. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Moved to the Modular V10 6.8L forum.

Stewart

 

Didn't get much sleep last night thinking about my truck I've barely driven yet!!! Is it possible to just put a new/used balance shaft in it? That would be WAY cheaper than any of the other options! Unfortunately for me it looks like I'm going to have to learn more about this truck than I wanted to, atleast in the first month anyways. Thanks ahead for any help. This site is awesome!

 

I haven't pulled one apart yet but it's on my list of things to do (as soon as I find a used v10 to rebuild)

But from what I understand is that there are no bearings on the cams and balancing shafts so if you have play and noise from that area you are more then likely going to need to replace the head. The only thing that you need to make sure of is did the heads come off of a PI intake engine or a NPI. The heads are different between these two sytles of two valve heads.

 

Who is feeding you all this gross mis-information???? These heads are simple to swap!

Just need to make sure you are using compatible heads and intakes. There are 3 versions: 2V non-PI, 2V PI, and 3V. You must use the correct intake for each.

 

Actually he has 2 choices. He already stated his truck is 2 valve. PI and Non PI. Three valve would require intake and conversion

 

Actually, even the 2V PI and 2V non-PI require different intakes to work properly. There are a total of 3 versions of heads, each with their own port design and intake.

OP: '05 Excursion, right? You need 2V PI heads. These are pretty easy to spot... Big black plastic angular valve covers and PI cast into them alongside the part number over the exhaust ports.
If aluminum valve cover, that is a 3V. No worky. If they are 2V and do not have PI cast next to the part number, 2V non-PI. Lower flow than stock, would require different intake.

These came in (as a minimum):
All Excursions after '01
'01-'04 F series
'01 to present E series (vans)
'01 to '04 class A motorhomes
'01 to present class C motorhomes (van chassis)

'99 and earlier should be non-PI. You don't want those. 2000 was transition year and could be either. Vans and motorhomes could have even more overlap of versions due to inventory drain down - that is where "leftovers" go, and and it is technically possible for a model year '03 coach to actually be sitting on an '01 chassis with a '99 engine - so look carefully!

Black plastic valve covers and PI clearly cast into the head right above exhaust ports. Left side has balance shaft. Right side does not. Happy hunting!

I ordered my re-man'd heads from Clearwater Cylinder Heads a couple years ago. So far, excellent.

 

I believe it was a clean change over in 2000. So all 2000's and later should be PI.

 

Thanks for the info mwsF250. I was wondering how you could tell the difference with out the intake (heads already off) I knew RV's didn't make the change to PI till later and not as clean of change as EX and SD.

 

Thanks everyone! I've put the valve cover back on and put some lucas in it for now. I was wondering about the heads from clearwater- they just sounded too cheap to be true! For now I think I'll just run it and figure out if I want to swap out head or drop an engine in in down the road. Thanks again.

 

I wouldn't use Lucas. That stuff is foamy sludge. If you want something thicker until you get the truck fixed run some 5w-40.

 

If I want to swap out the heads myself,do I need special tools to do it? It doesn't look lke a very hard job, and I will have lots of time and help. Should I be doing headers at the same time? I need to try and do this without the "warden" finding out too much!!! If I should do the headers then I will probably do the Y pipe at the same time. Is it something I can do over a weekend, or should I bring it inside and give it a bunch of time?

 

So, if I'm reading right, if I have one of the 98 275 hp 2V V10s, only heads I can replace them with are the 2V PI heads.
Could the later model 3V heads, somehow be used on the 98 engine to get away from some old head problems & up the hp to boot.
Thanks, Neil

 

The 3V will bolt on.
The challenges arise in the electronics. Do a little surfing. But basically, 3V heads need 3V intake which has throttle by wire TB. All 3V PCU's need 5R110 trans. 3V PCU's need CANBUS wiring. 3V heads have cam sensor on left head instead of right and at different clocking than 2V.
I do believe it can be made to work with modified 2V TB, wiring harness, and PCU with custom tune, and some custom machining to move the cam sensor. But not a bolt on... And clearly not smog legal in CA, which is why I didn't follow through and do it. Still have almost brand new heads and intake....

 

Thanks for that reply.
Sounds like a lot to do, for no more than it will change in performance.
I've got no problems with this 98 2V we got, just reading the horror storys & it is in the back of my mind.
This engine is in a 99 32' motorhome & honestly, if it only has 275 hp I'm not complaining, because every time it pulls out of the driveway with 24' enclosed she toting & pulling 25,6 or heavier down the road.
Those people got the new RVs with 362 hp V10 & 5 speed, lord I wouldnt know what to do with all that power.
I come for a trucking background & drove a bunch of SICK trucks up & down the east coast, so this thing is like a big cab KW & kitty cat.
Neil