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No. Everything has a specification, whenever I do a hub unit at work it is torqued to manufacturers spec. Press-in bearings for FWD cars are even more sensitive, the bearing WILL fail prematurely without the correct axle nut torque. I've seen a few fail from people "tightening the **** out of it" with an impact. The customer is then unhappy when a bearing they had replaced 2 months ago is now growling again.
Revised designs ( bearing size, material) and TSBs regarding repeat problems and failures are reasons why manufacturers change specifications. Go by the book, it's not hard unless you can't read. Do I do some stuff "by feel"? yes, but when a wheel is attached to it (and I can lose my job over it) I'm going by the book.
Yea there is a reason for the spec and its not the bearing, center raceways prevents overtightened of the bearing itself (rear roller), solid collar end to end.
That and front wheel drive the center nut holds the drive axle in place, bolts from back side hold wheel bearing/hub/wheel on car. No preload to set or adjust.
Yea you can or would loose your job if seen not using the wrench, doesn't mean you need it though. Not when understand how it works what does what and why, what differences are.
I've been in the auto repair business for years where production matters. There is a torque spec for nearly every bolt on the vehicle if you want to take the time to look it up and break out the torque wrench. I've heard of machine shops that tightened head bolts wit a 1/2" impact. I know a guy who will look up torque specs on caliper bolts for every vehicle he does.
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