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maybe you could try just putting the new tire on the front, then the 2 primary drive wheels would be the same size.. This is one case where having a extra setting for 2wd only would be better, there was a thread about that somewhere, cut a wire spice in a toggle switch or something and make a 2wd setting. At the time I filed that under "just because you can doesnt mean you should" (along with light beer, white chocolate etc..) but here it might work.
There are tire shop that can resize (shaving it down) to make it the same size as the rest. I know Sounds dumm, but it's cheaper the new ones. That is if you have more then 50% tire left.
An update: Now they say it has nothing to do with the tires. They say they're checking the sensors, but according to the computer everything checks out okay. The truck has been in the shop for seven days this time, after the original two-day visit two weeks ago. It's pretty disappointing to spend that much money on a vehicle and end up like this.
There is one rule on computers, they will not tell you there wrong. The will tell you all the sensers are not right. I would look around town and see if there is someone with a four wheel dino.That can spin all four tires at the same time with out the truck moving.That way someone can see whats happening under the truck.
I'm the guy with the 2002 Explorer XLT with the vibration at 60+mph. Last week I took the vehicle to my local Ford dealer and dropped it off with a carefully-written description of my driving sensations and steps I had taken. I suggested that wheels/tires from a new Explorer be put on to verify if the slightly-cupped tires were the cause. They weren't. The dealer then pulsed the Ford factory Hotline. Reply: Try a known good driveshaft. That was it. The "buzz" went away. Now all I have is some tire noise and a real firm ride (to be expected from slightly-cupped, Cross-Terrain Michelins at 35 psi). I hope this helps some souls out there who may be having the problem I had.
55 PSI ? The sidewall might say 55 psi max, that doesnt mean you should use 55 psi, The speedometer goes up to 120 but you dont usually run it at that speed right?.
The door sticker tells you the Suggested psi. for the size tires on the truck now. The tire tells you that should be in it now. Working for Goodyear they teach you this. This bit firestone in the but, The door said onething the tire said something deferent. Always go by the tire psi.
My understanding is the tire wall has the MAX PSI for the tire, my Michelin Cross Terrains say 44 PSI. The tire doesnt know what kind of vehicle or rim its mounted on and surely the manufacturer of the vehicle has some reason for reccomending a certain pressure on the door sticker. In fact, with car makers so concerned about fuel economy, if all else was equal they would reccomend a higher pressure which would decrease rolling resistance and give better mpg, so there must be other factors involved, not to mention the harsh ride a 55 psi.
OK. The door stickers are made in bulk, they are the same on two wheel drive and four wheel drive, all say the same thing 30 psi. If you feel that 30 psi is good for you then run with it.All i'm saying is that with sidewalls that tall you need to run closer to the max. or run car tires and not suv tires so you don't have the roll in the steering also when tires run low you end up running on the sidewalls and the center of tire is cupped up not gripping the road the way it is intened to. If you happen to have a rollover there going to look at the tires first. They will know by looking that it, if it was under inflated. Need to run that the tire says. The truck manufacturer is not a tire manufacturer. The tire people will tell you what to run, call and ask. Try this, when you put air in the tire, need to be hot, put the max. in no more and see what the tire reading is when it cools. When the tire cools the psi. should drop around 7 to 8 psi. If ride is a problem remember it's still a truck.
Okay, what a minute. This goes against everything any automotive engineer has ever advised owners about proper tire inflation. You should ALWAYS inflate the tires when cold (first thing in the morning is ideal), not hot, and never inflate to the max tire pressure on the sidewall. People all over are going to have wrecks from tire explosions if they follow the advice posted by dogman! Please, always follow the manufacturer's instructions located in the owner's manual. It will tell you the proper and safe way to inflate your tires. Proper tire inflation pressures, as stated above, are found on the vehicle door jam. Be safe out there!
I checked several TIRE manufacturers websites, they all had statements similar to the following that I cut and pasted directly from one of them:
"To find the correct pressure for your tires, look at the tire information placard that’s mounted inside the frame of the driver’s door, in the glove box or inside the fuel door"
NONE of them suggested inflating to the max pressure listed on the tire.
I agree. Please do not inflate your tires to the max listed on the tire sidewall. Use the number located on the inside of the driver side door. Trust me when I say that the Ford engineers understand the implications of overinflated or underflated tires on their SUVs. A lesson learned.
I have a similar vibration, but I swear I can feel it at idle, believe it or not, through the steering wheel and through the door panel (where my knee often rests) at highway speeds. Like it is an engine vibration not dampened by motor mounts or tie-rod ends.
Does this make sense?
Bought the vehicle with 18,000 miles and took it in with the problem. They balanced the tires and ground the rotors, front and rear. Improvement in the ride and braking, of course, but the vibration is still in the wheel.
Going over bumps, there is a lot more movement in the wheel than I am used to, maybe that's just rack and pinion?
This may drive me nuts. Once you notice it, you can't ignore it.
Just signed up to post, hence the somewhat late timing.
Recently bought an '02 Explorer 2WD EB w/4.6L V8. Noticed a "rumble" that peaked at about 65mph but put it down to an exhaust system resonance. (New car sensory overload :-) After a few days I began to realize otherwise and gave it the time honored test of getting up to that speed then briefly shifting into neutral to let the engine slow down to idle -- Hmmm, noise still there, so I began to suspect driveline other than engine/tranny.
Bottom line, it turned out to be an out-of-balance driveshaft. My dealer was very cooperative, and they do not indulge in such BS as "We never heard of that" or "They all do it." They promptly ordered a new driveshaft. However, I had about a two-week wait since according to Ford, driveshafts were then on a national backorder list (maybe being redesigned ???).
The new driveshaft was put in last month (Sept '03) and the vehicle is now smooth as silk at any speed, including a brief runup on a quiet highway to 100 mph.
A good dealer service department makes all the difference !!
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