I got a 130 amp alternator from a 95 Windstar and I'm sure the "clocking" is wrong ...can it be changed around with not much hassle and grief ???
Took it to my local Autozone to see if it worked and the equipment said the regulator was bad (it figures) suggestions please !!!

 

Clocking is easy to change, once you can get the alternator case to come apart.
Problem with the case is that the metal / corrosion / dirt makes it stick together - if you hammer on the case too hard or in the wrong way, the case will break. One tip I've read involves removing using Liquid Wrench on the case, removing the alt's internal regulator, then the case bolts, and putting the whole thing in a 400 degree oven long enough to warm the entire structure. This will tend to expand the outer part of the case more than the inner. When the alt is out of the oven, the parts may come apart very easily (even fall apart, so be careful).
I've recently worked on a '98 Taurus 130A alternator, it is probably very similar to your '95 Windstar model. The regulator is extremely easy to remove if you have a T20 Torx bit & a cordless screwdriver. 4 bolts removed, jiggle the regulator & out it comes. Reinstalling a regulator needs a paper clip to hold the brushes in a retracted position.
A cordless screwdriver & a Torx 20 bit will allow you to quickly extract another regulator from another 130A alt in a junkyard - you may not even have to remove the alt from the vehicle, but this depends on clocking & how the alternator is installed near the engine. Most junkyards will have dozens of 130A alt's that are easy to get to.
I split the case on my alt using a punch & a small hammer around the edges, with lots of Liquid Wrench spray, wound up chipping the edge of the case a bit. Not enough case damage for me to worry about.
Reassembling the pieces was tight, even after I polished the meeting edges of the case with 320 grit wet or dry sandpaper. I put the outer portion of the case in a 375 degree oven for 20 min, and it enlarged enough to make reassembly easy - for about 60 seconds, until the hot part cooled off.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11336652

 

With my regulator allegedly being bad... will any 3g 130amp regulator work in mine. A company on FTE sells wire looms and other electrical parts and they advertise one for $25 ... is it worth it or is it crap ? It is about 70 mi.(one way) to the nearest JY's / Pic-a-part. Opinions please !!! Thanks Dave

 

I just took mine apart to clock. First I sprayed a liittle pb blaster on it them, I hooked up to the truck mount and used a 4ft pipe on the wrench for levelage. Another member suggested an impact wrench.

I think most auto parts store will have the reg. or you could go to the junkyard. Don't feel to bad I had to buy new brushes for 11 bucks, one was broke. Still it's alot cheaper than buying new.

 

Buy BWD Voltage Regulator R401P at Advance Auto Parts

This is for a 95 windstar, I think I would be heading to the junkyard.

 

RJM Injection tech has regulators and brushes listed. I'm not sure of the fitment so I'm trying to contact them. When I find out I will post the answer.
Getting it apart sounds like a real battle ...so off to the war !!! RJM link is below
Thanks ,... Dave
RJM Injection Tech — 3G Alternator Harness

 

I took one of my junkyard 3G alts to Oreillys and the tech took it to the back, tested it, and stated it tested bad. I installed it anyway and it worked fine to the tune of 14.83 VDC. They were just trying to make a buck. Frigging a-holes.

Lately, I just R&R the one in my 70 for testing.

 

We have a good O'Rilleys here, there into old cars too, it's a shame you can't trust the parts guys much anymore. I went to the local NAPA and they couldn't get their tester to work. I think I'll check out the Carquest here too ...one of them has to be honest ...maybe !!!! Thanks, Dave

 

I had my upgrade 130A alt tested at 3 different places. At least one of the counter people didn't seem to know how to run the test. Alt passed in all places.
I found a late model F150 with cables from another 130A alternator (which had the wrong holes to fit on my F250). These cables were attached to 175A fuses and fuse holders bolted to the firewall, very easy to remove. Junkyard charged me about $7 for cables & fuses. Both fuses turned out good, while new ones cost about $5 EACH.
I will re-engineer the cables & use the pieces & parts to install my upgrade. I ordered a new pulley from RJM, and will install that on the upgrade alternator (which came with a pulley designed for a serpentine belt, not the v-belts I have on my '83). Will store my old alt in reserve, it will be fully functional & ready to bolt back on in case I have any trouble with my upgrade.

 

I finally got my alt checked out and it showed it was overcharging 16.07 volts as opposed to 14.35 volts ... so I guess I still need a regulator so, my question remains must I replace it with another "white" regulator or 4/94 or newer or will any 130 amp reg do the job. I've e-mailed "RJM" twice about their products and no answer (must be makin too much money to answer)...weak service, or they don't give a mmmm hoot !!!! Thanks ... Dave

 

NAPA AUTO PARTS)

This is for a 95 tarsus, click on buyers guide shows what it fits. Just put in your app. and it will show what your fits. Hope this helps.

 

You can buy reliable kits at * * * * and they take immediate response. You can also call them. They are rebuilders so they know. You need to check the harness "A" terminal for bat. voltage after it's unplugged. (It says A,S,I on the Volt. Reg)This would produce symptoms of everything that's happened to you. If you don't have bat voltage there, or some there but not enough, the Volt. Reg. senses system voltage at this terminal and overcharges.

Follow the wire, check the fuses, if you have to, on an old driver, you can just put it to Bat + somewhere like on the Bat. output post of the alt.

 

i just reclocked one last night, it was from a 95 taurus with a reman sticker from '09, which is part of why i chose that one. it came apart real easy at room temp with no oil. they aren't always that bad

 

That '09 reman saved you.