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Strong ignition/electric problem

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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 11:03 AM
  #1  
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From: northern Germany
Cool Strong ignition/electric problem

My Car: F150 Eddy Bauer .95, 5,8l,4x4… has no Power. A break about 1800 rpm and sounds like not enough fuel but it’s enough! Same with LPG (different computer). I saw with a Strobo light, that the Ign point change only up to about 20° before OT and not more (must go up to 50° at full power)! with open Spouc at Idle it is correct at 10°.
It starts moth ago with start problems… then sometimes at more than 1500rpm misfiring and backfire. Since 2 Month it is only raining and I detect more and more misfiring up to the total leak of power.
I change the IDM (TFI) and then also the PCM… no Error code but same fault. Sensors are ok. Hall sensor has 1500 ohms from PIP to GND and Digital Voltmeter swith from 0 to 11.5V. Oscylloskope shows a squere Signal. The Bulp test do not work.. if I put a 2w 12v from PIP to Ground – absolute no signal longer.
Any Idea? I ordered now a new Hallsensor……

sorry about my bad english ... but i sit in germany
 
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 11:49 AM
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I'm not quite sure on some of this. However I will try my best to help.

Have you actually tried to pull codes? Even without a check engine light there may be stored codes.

Have you put a gauge on the fuel rail? Should be ~39 lbs running.

It defeinately sounds like there may be timing issues. Hopefully someone else chimes in soon.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 12:30 PM
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i have made some times the KOEO-Test with both PCM's no error code - finisch with 111. I found an old Post from Subford who described yust my problem and he found the Hallsensor as malfunction. The point is, that the Ign point will not change over 20° before upper deadpoint
 
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 01:03 PM
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You need to pull codes from all 3 methods to really see whats happening KOEO, KOER, and CM.

I don't know much about timing, so I can't help much there.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 05:33 PM
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by nobleboy
A break about 1800 rpm and sounds like not enough fuel but it’s enough!
What do you mean by "break"?
Engine shuts off?
Originally Posted by nobleboy
I saw with a Strobo light, that the Ign point change only up to about 20° before OT
What is "OT"?
Originally Posted by nobleboy
and not more (must go up to 50° at full power)! with open Spouc at Idle it is correct at 10°.
Where did you find the specifications of 50° at full power?
Originally Posted by nobleboy
It starts moth ago with start problems… then sometimes at more than 1500rpm misfiring and backfire. Since 2 Month it is only raining and I detect more and more misfiring up to the total leak of power.
Spark plugs or spark plug wires?
Originally Posted by nobleboy
Hall sensor has 1500 ohms from PIP to GND and Digital Voltmeter swith from 0 to 11.5V.
?? it should be 3.0-8.5 VAC.

Originally Posted by nobleboy
The Bulp test do not work..
What is a "Bulp test"?
Originally Posted by nobleboy
if I put a 2w 12v from PIP to Ground – absolute no signal longer.
Any Idea?
Too large a load on the PIP sensor. If this is the PIP bulb test you need to use a LED and not a incandescent bulb.
Originally Posted by nobleboy
I ordered now a new Hallsensor……
Why did you do that?
Originally Posted by nobleboy
I found an old Post from Subford who described yust my problem and he found the Hallsensor as malfunction.
Can you post a link to this post?
Originally Posted by nobleboy
The point is, that the Ign point will not change over 20° before upper deadpoint
Did you read somewhere it should?
 
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 06:46 PM
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thanks for the fast answer!

1. with break do i mean: if i open the trottle the engine will run only up to 1800 -1900rpm and if i open the trottle more, rpm no more change and sound change, as if the Engine has no fuel - but Fuelpressure is ok.... interest is: same fault if i switch to LPG

2. sorry, OT is the German describ for "Upper deadpoint of the first Zylinder

3. I owned a CD with all Ford service and repair specifications, like Pinpoint procedures and datas. one test describe, that the ignition point will be at idle and open spout at 10° BTDC and with close spout up to 5° more. the PCM then calculate by the internal matrix depending on load and rpm the needed ignition up to 45-50° BTDC. (in old Distributors this are done by the vacuum pressure.

4. Sparcs and plug wires are new, pcm and IDM also changed

5. the "bulb-test" and voltage testing i found within a old thread from you (2007, I could not found it again) where you described that you also surching a long time ignition problems similar mine

6. because all other sensor are within specific range, Pinpoint test shows no fault and KOEO, KOER quick test shows only 111

7. as Youngster i work and tune racing engines (40 years ago - without all this damned electronic staff) and so i know, that the ign-point must go earlyer how faster and more load the engine create to have the max. explosion pressure at the wright time.

does this Answer helps better understand?

the problem starts moth ago with hard starting - somtimes more the a half minute, then under load on the road above 1800 rpm some misfire. 2 Month ago here starts a never ending raining time and some Backfires are addet and at last i lost the power like discribed - last trip then with 3-5 mil/h back home. since 4 weeks i check test by test, change modules and now I'm on the end with my experiance
 
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 06:59 PM
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Ford F-series Pickups are very rarely in Germany and car repares with experiance about them and the specificatet test equipement so good as nothing (here in the north) so I'm order all specific parts direkt in US and it takes a time to have them. sorry, but a big compliment to all the dealers I work with: very correct, fast and helpfull!!!!
 
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 07:05 PM
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Oh° I find your old post again! :https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...-problems.html
 
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 07:20 PM
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From: Easton,Ks
It sounds like you may have a bad TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) or wiring to it.

If you have an analog volt-ohm meter check the voltage going back to the computer (TPS).
The needle should move from about 0.9 VDC to 4.5 VDC with a smooth movement across the scale. Use the computer ground return wire (SIG RTN) for the negative wire of the meter. Also check for the regulated 5.0 VDC (VREF) at the TPS.

It sound like as you open the throttle the engine is getting more air but the fuel input stays the same. This will cause it to do what you are describing.

I think it is the plug on the far left:


For more information on the TPS go to the link below:
http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=30

/
 
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 07:31 PM
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From: Easton,Ks
Also make sure if you have catalytic converters on the truck that they are not stopped up (plugged) and causing back pressure. As this will also cause what you are describing.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 07:55 PM
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TPS signal is ok =o,3 - 4,5v. Upps- Cat plugged, thats an idea... i will check it tomorro and give response. thanks
 
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 01:27 PM
  #12  
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yes, that's it! the first Cat are brocken and all the ceramic dust close the second. after a clean up with high pressure now the power ist back.

with the new Hallsensor the engine starts quick and run without misfire. thanks for the great idea!
 
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