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Can someone answer a fairly simple question for me? How does a Holley 94 carb mount to the manifold of a Ford v-8 flathead...does the manifold have bolt studs sticking up or do you screw three bolts into the manifold? I said it was simple Thanks.
Thanks for your reply. Another question, I have a holley 94 7RT carb I'm rebuilding for a friend of a friend, O'Reilley's sold me a kit but the instruction sheet indicates a Holley 2100 AA-1. O'Reilley's told me the kit would work. Is this true? Thanks.
Yes, basically the same carb. The 2100 is newer while the 7RT was the stock carb for 48-50ish trucks. I'm not sure when all the changes took place exactly, but the internals of the carbs are very similar - most of the differences are external linkage, levers, spray bars, etc.
There will be "extra" parts in the rebuild kit, be sure you pick the right ones. There will most likely be two gaskets to go between the upper air horn, and the bowl assembly. They will fit differently around the venturi area and accelerator pump area, make sure you pick the right one. Also likely to include two items that look like power valves. One will be a spark control valve that was used on the 2100 but not the 94. Make sure you match the correct piece.
Thanks for the answers. I do appreciate it. Now, this carb I have has a partially broken third hole (the lone hole in the middle). Only half of the hole is left. Any idea's how to securely mount it to the manifold? Or maybe where can I get a used one? Thanks.
I have several parts carbs/bases, but unfortunately in a different state right now. Does the base in question have the throttle shaft coming out the left side (hand throttle)? You need to make sure the base you get has the "extra" little vacuum port for your distributor.
Also, did your kit have the plastic-tipped needle? Was the needle in the carb steel? IF so, throw the plastic needle in the garbage and use the steel one.
AND, if the original accelerator pump is leather and in decent shape, I would oil it and see if it would work over the what I assume is a plastic ac from the kit.
If this truck is a "keeper", you might want to consider a new aluminum throttle section from Vintage Speed. P/N CL-94-P-ALUM, $120. Near the bottom of the page: http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....dha~~~~A20~A11
Not cheap but it gives you tight shaft clearance, butterflies that seat perfectly, etc.
Yes, basically the same carb. The 2100 is newer while the 7RT was the stock carb for 48-50ish trucks. I'm not sure when all the changes took place exactly, but the internals of the carbs are very similar - most of the differences are external linkage, levers, spray bars, etc.
MTFLAT is right. The 2100 is the aftermarket replacement for the 7RT & 8RT (and others). 8RTs are the same as 7RTs except that the 8RT has a cable connection for the choke and the 7RT has a ball stud (see attached). Also note the warning at the bottom that 8RTs are marked 7RT (if they are marked at all) on the right (passenger) side of the float bowl. If your kit is the same as mine they include parts for any variation of Holley 94. The challenge is using the right parts. The correct power valve is the longer one.
I don't know how badly the mounting boss is broken but if it isn't too bad you could try using a thick flat washer on top of that middle stud. Actually I have seen some carbs (not used on flattys) that have that bosses open on one side making them easier to remove.
ALBUQ F-1 is right though. Replacing the carb is probably the right fix. . . . no telling what else the POs boogered up. Mine was a mess. I just ordered a carb from Charlie Price earlier in the week.
A picture of a restored 8RT with hand throttle. I don't know if a whole new carb is warranted. Just make sure that any parts that have twins, such as the nozzle bars, are identical, and as I stated earlier, avoid plastic needles and ac pumps. Check the idle screws to see that they are not grooved.
As Ross said, you can use a washer until have a chance to find a better base. I may be able to scare one up for you if you are patient.
Thanks to everyone who have responded to my thread. Response to 1952henry, albuq f-1. The kit I have has the viton tip needle valve. The original steel one is groved so I can't use it. The original accel pump is shot so I'll have to use the plastic one in the kit.
Here is a fix I've come up with today for the broken mtg hole flange. I fabricated a sturdy steel bracket for a hold down. It's a "kluge" but I think a workable solution.
Anyway, here are the pics of the broken flange and my proposed fix. Please let me know what you think. Thanks.
Here is a fix I've come up with today for the broken mtg hole flange. I fabricated a sturdy steel bracket for a hold down. It's a "kluge" but I think a workable solution.
Anyway, here are the pics of the broken flange and my proposed fix. Please let me know what you think. Thanks.
Your fix would work, but if you have an 8BA style distributor (modern, comes up from timing cover at 45* angle), that base will not work with it, as it doesn't have the vacuum port. You can see it in the above picture.
Here is the passage 1952Henry is talking about. I'm thinking someone must have swapped the lower section from a very old (pre-'48) Holley. What diameter are the throttle bores?
Sorry, I should have explained better. The TB w/the broken flange is from a model 59 carb which is another project of mine. The carb body has no vacuum port as does not the TB. The throttle dia are 1-1/4 inch.
Now the 7rt base I have does have the vacuum port on carb body and TB. Does all of this sound about right? I'm a newbie when it comes to Ford FH v-8's and carb's. My claim to fame is I'm the 2nd owner (my Dad was the first) of a 1955 Chevy truck 2nd series 235 6 cylinder.
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