Hey everybody.
My 76 360 is all original as far as starting/charging system.
when you start the truck and turn on any lights, either just running lights or with headlights, all of the lighting(dash,running and headlights, even in my tach) gets dim and bright and cycles about 2 or 3 times a second, it sometimes does it all the time and like today i noticed they may become steady at higher rpm. at times it can be serious enough im afraid some bored highway patrol will think im flashing my lights and pull me over. its always done it even after replacing the regulator and some wiring.

maybe someone knows a lot about the alternators and would know if its the diodes or i need to add a resistor or something like that. it charges fine about 14-some volts even at idle, and never have any issues like a dead battery even letting it sit for a couple weeks it started right up! i dont really want to replace the alternator because it is original and really works fine. if i do have to i will do a one-wire setup instead.

appreciate any help and ideas!
thanks

 

Try running a jumper wire from one of the regulator mounting bolts to clean, unpainted metal on the engine (ground). Report whether or not this helps.

What do you mean you replaced "some wiring?" Can you be specific on what was done?

 

i will add a ground jumper that is a good idea. as far as the wiring... i have eliminated the plug-ins and use terminal strips which didnt carry the amperage needed for the 10 guage alt wire(which i think goes to the hot side of the solenoid i cant remember right now) i made a direct connection there instead, as well as one or two other spots...some of the fusible link has been replaced, nothing major just lil things that seemed weak. i had solenoid problems and it was because of bad ground to the fender from paint. i know at one time i did have a 10 guage ground to the regulator but ill try it again tonight!

 

That's correct; the alternator output connects to the battery side of the starter solenoid. This connection needs to be made through a fusible link.

You're using terminal strips instead of the factory connections? Are these weather proof? Do you have pictures of your setup? What was the reasoning here? Can you explain exactly what is connected to what?

Sorry, in no way do I mean to second guess your work, but 9 out of the 10 times that a charging system problem comes through this forum, there's usually some modified wiring involved.

 

okay, i unbolted the regulator scraped surfaces clean i did have a little corrosion and i added a jumper from the battery - and split it between the bolt/reg. and the reg/fender just to get more surface area. and...

same thing is happening

i did notice it does not do it below 600 rpm it starts to flicker at about 700, maybe the alternator isnt putting out yet at 5-600 rpm? i didnt have my voltmeter to see.

but regardless the lighting still flickers at any rpm, and i couldnt tell if my gauge was wavering or not the dash lighting flicker could just be an illusion but it did seem like the gauge just barely oscillates also

 

oh yessir. i dont have pics but i made custom aluminum treadplate boxes one right under the solenoid and one behind the ignition module. the main purpose was to replace those weird harness connectors like for the ignition module, mine were in bad shape. the solenoid side terminal strip makes the connection for the fusible link pigtails to the regular wire where a butt connector would have been used anyway, it also connects the wiring from the key to the pigtails for the solenoid S and I terminals. but, the connections that i felt really matter such as the fuselink to the alt. and the other fuslink to the interior are now solid connections. Some of the regulator wiring is also connected by the strip. just the two(?) other alternator wires that go into the regulator which those connections are fine i did spend time inspecting those, im starting to wonder if the alternator harness itself isnt any good, i can tell some of wiring loops a few times under the tape.
the strips i used i bought from lowes years ago with about 12 connections and are made for 12-16 ish gauge house electrical(10 gauge wire just barely fits into them). i also used them to replace the harness connectors that go back to the taillights.
i do all my electrical as pro as i can neat and solid no electrical tape around twisted wire or any "rigging" of any wiring.

 

Can you give me an idea of how to find the regulator to try your suggestion on this post. I am having the same problem as the first person.

 

Since i posted about this problem i noticed someone had the same problem and wanted to report that i have gotten rid of the factory alternator and put in a fresh rebuilt 3g alternator and used a big 150 amp breaker instead of the megafuse(was better for me because i dont have to worry about the fuse blowing i can instead reset the breaker!)

The flickering problem was gone, i think a capacitor in the old alternator was the source of the "flickering" it didnt matter how many grounds i added or cleaned the flickering didnt go away or get better. i also think the wiring to that old alternator was in bad shape is was heavily green and corroded

I seriously recommend the 3G style alternator upgrade to everybody. it deletes that old problematic regulator and lots of bad wiring between. it enables the proper use of better stereo systems and electric fans, looks cleaner also.

 

The voltage regulator is a square metallic box on the passenger side inner fender. It has a 4-terminal connector plugged into it.

 

Hey Jeff, just to clarify my '77's regulator is not on the right fender, but on the radiator support, right side in front of the battery next to the radiator.

 

Good call, I forgot about that one.

 

yes... my 74 was on the support also, i know the bumpside trucks were too, idk what year they changed to the fenderwell? somewhere before '76, im suprised that the 77 has it on the support though?