See there you go. Awesome info. I didn't even think of that. Now I know this is probably stupid but why can't ya just use the timing set from the 400

 

timing set for all the 335 series the same. Thats why you can fit a 351c set to a 351m-400.

 

I know that the timming on all the 335 are the same, and I git that the tooth count from the 351w has a different tooth count. So as far as I have seen when the 400 crank was swaped into the 351w I didn't see anything about timing. If using the 351w crank in the 400 you would need to use the 400 timing. So the only thing I can think is that the place were the timing sprocket that goes on the crank has a different bore. I just didn't see anywhere were they had to turn down the shaft to fit the 351w sprocket. I'm sure I'm wrong on some point here.

 

yup some clarification form mabe 73XA would be in order asit looks like he did this a while back

 

The W crank snout is a smaller diameter than a 335 snout. Also, the 335 snout has a built up ridge on the snout that moves the gear away from the first counterweight. Ford Motorsports used to sell a spacer that you could slip onto the W crank before fitting the Motorports/SVO timing chain sprocket. Rollmasters used to sell the proper timing chain set and TMI has a set made just for his stroker kits. Dollar for dollar, you will be better of buying a TMI kit instead of piecing together your own. I know, I've done it. TMI wasn't selling kits in 2002/3 when I built my 400, if he would have been, I would have bought it and saved a lot of money and a ton of time.

 

Swapping a 400 crank into a 351W is a whole other story. First, you have to machine down the counter weights. Second, you have to machine down the ridge on the back 1/4" of the crank snout so the W timing chain sprocket can fit far enough back for good chain alignment. Third, you have to machine down the snout to the smaller W diameter. Fourth, you have to shorten the snout as the 400 snout is longer. Finally, you have to double check the thrust clearance because you may have to do some bearing swapping to get the proper thrust bearing clearance.

 

Great stuff 73. No way you would want to put a 400 crank in a 351W unless you were being a bit of a ****** just to say you'd done it. Far to much machining. My problem being here in aussie still stands although as I dont have the money it isnt really a problem is it??

 

Guys used to swap 400 cranks into 351W's back in the late 80's when you couldn't buy stroker kits for them. Chebbie guys could build cheap 383ci motors all day long but building a stroker Ford was pretty darn expensive until someone figured out they could use a 400 crank. The machining isn't all that expensive and it's well within the capabilities of any decent shop. Now days it isn't worth the work as you can buy great forged stroker kits for a reasonable price.

 

That kit is about $2300 not bad I guess. I found all the parts needed for a bit less then that but no machine work. I'm sure that would eat up the difference. But even with the kit machine work still needs to be done. So it's all about a wash either way you go. The only real up side to doing it your self is its a learning experience and the pride in knowing you did it. Not a big down side in the price. Just be easyer to get the TMI kit. But when if comes to Fords we don't do cheap and easy. We leave that to the Chevy guys. Ford guys are in it for the pride. Chevy guys are in it to save a buck.

 

Only machine work with the kit would be what you would have to do anyway?

 

It's not a wash in the price. $2300 is a great price. Even if you piece it all together, you will need to do some machining on those parts plus balancing and then machining the block. Did you find a timing chain set yet? If not, add another $200 or so for one of those. TMI kit only requires you to machine the block as the kit is pretty much ready to go, outside of the normal careful assemble you should do with any stroker kit. I have $10K in parts and machining on my motor so I can vouch for the TMI price.....the maching costs plus the fact that companies WILL send you the wrong parts runs the price up. I've never had a company eat all of the shipping costs on returns and with todays economy like it is, I'd bet even fewer are willing to eat any costs. I've never bought anything from TMI and I don't know anyone that works there but I've learned my lessons the hard way and I can tell you that you don't want to go down this road.....buy the kit, save yourself the headaches. It took 2 years for me to build my motor because of parts delays, wrongs parts being shipped, and a bad crank that Eagle had miss-machined. It took some convencing, but Eagle sent me a new crank; I ate the shipping for it both ways. As for pistons, those only got cut a couple of times a year so I had to wait and then I was sent the wrong pistons twice. The off-the-shelf rods ended up being custom order because they didn't have them like they said they did....this doubled the price! **** like this happens when you try to custom build.

 

Met a guy back in 90-91 who had a 420-something ci Clevor. He took a 69 351W block and punched it out .04, offset machined a 400 crank w/GM rods, ran Cleveland 4V heads and a B&A Street Boss intake. Great motor, ran like hell. The Chebbie guys hated him. They figured he had a stroker so he told them it was a 377ci motor...they were always pissed because he was running "those big block heads" on his Windsor.

 

Nice inputs from you guys about our kit.

First of all it is a drop in kit, no machining is required to the block.

We run a much longer rod than most people want to try and this help with the rod to stroke ratio. Rod length is over 6.700"

The kit as many have see is all forged 4340 4.250" crankshaft, H-beam rods, forged pistons, aluminum rod and main bearings, plasma moly ring set and a billet timing set. As mentioned before, just the timing set sells for $150.
There is a lot machine work involved for us in the kit.

The kit can be balanced internally.

Not sure if many understand balancing bob weights, but this kit usually balances with about a 1785 gram bob weight. This is normally light for a stroke this long.


I didn't get real deep because honestly I am a business man and I sent a lot of time putting this package together. I totally understand people wanting to save money and do things them self. There is a great pride in doing this. But trying to save money and buying the parts on Ebay or some other bargin store, and then calling someone else to help figure it out, doesn't cut it with me.

I hope this helps answer some questions.

 

Tim,

Thanks for your input. My comments about machining were along the lines of boring, honing, and just squaring up the deck. I had read that your kit did not require any block clearancing. I don't think I'm far off the mark when I say your kit is still a far better deal than trying to do this piecemeal. Good to know your timing chain set is sold separately...it took me a couple of months to find one of those old Ford Motorsports sets.

 

Internal balance means no harmonic balancer just somet to put timing marks on?