Yea everyone I have talked to said to just run a line from the top of the tank to the pump and just bypass the electric. Pumps

 

What you can do is remove the frame mounted high pressure pump and if it is still the original Bosch and works, sell it. The 1989 is the last year Ford used 3 pumps, two in-tank and one HP on the frame. Take the line that goes to the engine, put a tee with a 1/16-1/8" bleed for the return side, then use a pressure regulator on the feed to the carb, 6 psi is usually good for a Holley. That way your electric pumps can be used. Get a choke control switch for a 1987 Dodge Omni/Plymouth Horizon and use it and a relay to run the pumps. If you run the pump power from terminal 30 of a Bosch relay, and power 87 from the start circuit and 87a from a fused source (you can use the factory location for it) it will power the pumps when cranking and once the engine is running they will stay powered.

 

Ok ill keep that in mind but if I was to just do away with the high pressure fuel pump on the frame would I still be able to run a line from the unit in the tank to the filter before the manual fuel pump

 

You probably could, but the tank change over depends on the in-tank pumps pressurizing the automatic changeover valve.

 

I have never heard of that

 

Probably not, but Ford truck EFI systems started in mid 1985 with the 5.0L engine and expanded further in 1987 and covered all gas engines by 1988. All of these through 1989 used either 1 or 2 in tank low (relatively) pumps, a reservoir/changeover valve assembly (85 and 86 had a filter in it) and a high pressure Bosch pump on the frame. Starting in 1990, the in tank pumps were changed to a pump module with a high pressure pump in each tank and the changeover was in each pump module.

Diesels and 460 engines with the hot fuel handling package through 1987 had a 6 port motorised valve on the frame, the 460s had very low pressure (3-6 psi) intank pumps. If you want to do away with all the EFI stuff, you can get an aftermarket tank selector valve and try just connecting the supply lines (larger) to it. Just make sure that it selects the same tank as the gauge is connected to.

 

You have my truck!!! I have stumped all that have tried to weigh in on a solution. If Ford had a choice between climbing over a mountain or driving through an existing tunnel you know which route they'd take. After doing what I hate most, which is replacing parts for the sake of replacing parts, I'm so lost as Ford has several versions of each part depending on each vehicles born on dating.... I finally threw in the towel and installed an all in one distributor and it fired immediately. I had planned on tapping into the new distributors Hall Effect signal for the EFI, but Ford again threw a curve ball. Ford, in it's bizarre wisdom, decided to make the fuel rails and injectors on an angle, so the drivers side rail had to be disconnected as it hit the new distributor. Even with the older smaller distributor, the rail ends needed to be covered with plastic so as not to create a spark path. So I've ordered an Edelbrock 2121 manifold and a 500cfm carb. I did not find any shorts in the wiring, though there are many splices in the harness. Between the insane amount of vacuum tubing and wiring, they couldn't have made a simple operation any more complicated. While waiting for the manifold to arrive, I am now in the process of sorting out which sensors are needed for the dash gauges to function. I have never seen a manufacturer more invested in changing designs over the course of any given model year. Look up your F150 wiring harness for 1993. If it's VIN#N???? go to page x, if it's VIN#S????, go to page y, for all other VIN#s, you're on your own. It's no wonder Toyota is eating their lunch. Even NASCAR uses Toyota's for their driers. The UAW is happy though : )

 

After 2 years of working on this project, it's finally running reliably, after going old school.

 

Are you referring to me having your truck? I assume that the "all in one" distributor is one of those French (Chevrolet) units. Mine runs just fine with the Factory TFI-IV system using all Motorcraft parts. Before you start making all encompassing statements try changing a 1995 Chevy K-2500 with 454 from TBI to Vortec port injection. It was a damn nightmare, sensors are different, distributor is primarily a cap and rotor, but requires special tools to sync the cam and crank sensors, front end wiring, engine included is all one piece, plugs in on the driver's side, but penetrates the firewall on the other. Speedometer, tachometer wires had to be redone as the TBI EEC is inside on the right end of the dash above the HVAC, later (1996 up) are underhood.

BTW, if yours is a 460, I hope you ordered a manifold to fit EFI heads, port angle is different.

 

If your truck runs, then no. My post was supposed to be a quick reply to the original post from
jakojohnston who had also spent countless hours trying to figure out his EFI/TFI nightmare before ditching the entire Ford system as well. Regarding your Chevy comparison, that is not exactly apples to apples. I'm not trying to re-invent the wheel, I just want it run for more than a few miles before quitting, again. My truck would run fine and then suddenly stop. After a few months and doing absolutely nothing, it would start and run fine again. And then quit. It had compression, spark, timed spot on, and had fuel and would not give even the slightest flicker of life. Sound impossible? That's because it is. I finally had to prove that the ignition was the culprit, so I installed the all-in-one distributor, made in IL, and viola, it fired right up. And that was after all the components were checked and/or replaced. My previous Ford experience was a brand new Ford Ranger. Ford decided that for my model, for the same engine, trans, body length, etc., they had 6 different possible u-joints for this one truck, for that one year...... And I don't mean 6 different units on the one truck as the truck used the same u-joint throughout. I mean Ford manufactured the same truck with 6 different designs. You had to bring a sample u-joint with you to the parts store. Going all the way back to my automotive trade school days in the late 60's, this was always advised when working on a Ford. The culture has not changed one lick since then. I've always said that Ford makes the strongest truck, bare none. But God help you when it breaks down.

 

Yeah, I really don't know what you're talking about. Every brand has specific parts for specific combinations. It's not unique to Ford. There's a reason for everything. The injectors (and fuel rail) have to be angled so the injectors spray at the intake valves. You don't want the injectors spraying against the manifold or port wall. Almost every older engine without straight-shot ports has angled injectors.

The EFI system in OBS Ford trucks had very, very little changes. The speed-density system remained pretty much unchanged from '88-'97. Any part that work's in a '97 speed density system will work in an '88. With the amount of money and effort you spent on converting your truck to carb, you could have easily taken the time to sit down and work out your EFI issues.

 

FYI, "quick replies" to 5 year old posts rarely are taken correctly.

 

Really? I'll tell you what, why not take a late model 302 and bolt it to, say, a 1962 Ford Falcon. There is no way you can argue interchangeability of a Ford to a Chevy or even a Dodge. My Ford has two or three wiring diagrams for the same truck. TFI on the firewall, TFI on the distributor, etc., etc. You even need to pop the inner fender out in order to change the ECU, or as Ford had to call it, the PCM. I have spent $500 trying to fix the EFI/TFI system and in my estimation would need a new wiring harness for approx. $1000. And that doesn't include the crazy vacuum controlled side of things. I repaired that mess for under $300 and should have done so before spending the $500 for nothing. Are you saying I should have spent another $1000 on the wiring harness? Was there a mystery sensor I missed? Name it? Before offering a solution that solves nothing, as did every other solution offered in this forum before you, you would need to go back to my first post and countless posts thereafter looking for an answer. Most were very helpful like, is there gas in the tank. Like you said, this forum is out of date and mostly irrelevant.

 

Deleted....

 

The only troll here is you. This truck has been before the top Ford mechanics in my area and they were all stumped. And it's now running. It's my dump run truck, so my patience has won out with a much simpler solution. And this forum has been of no help. Sometime, try querying the forum for TFI and EFI problems. There's a problem there and it has nothing to do with me. I've gotten 100 year old engines to run on much less than this truck had. As I said, the issue is buried deep within the wiring harness and after much consideration decided to simply eliminate the unnecessarily complex harness for a one wire solution. Regarding EFI, perhaps you could tell me why Ford decided to send 8 PIP signals to the ECU, yet fire off 4 injectors at a time, which many on this forum attribute to EFI's inefficiency and poor gas mileage. Later Ford decided to modify the same system to create the SEFI system. Something that other companies had been doing for decades. For that matter, why even create the half way to SEFI EFI system when most others were using throttle body injection with similar gas mileage results? No one can answer that except the propeller heads at Ford. And if you don't understand the desire to a better job than the nut cases that would design a 1978 Ford Thunderbird with a 428 so as to have to raise the engine in order to change one plug, then you are not a hot rodder and should simply keep quiet while others rant about our inept industry. And this includes Chevy and Dodge.