Hi guys. First, let me start off with the truck that's giving me problems...she's an 87 F-150 with a 300 and a 4 spd 4x4 behind it. It's the XL model and yes, it has tilt steering. Ever since I bought this thing, it's been an electrical nightmare born in the very pits of hell itself. The P.O. had it jerry-rigged with a push button start because the lock cylinder was shot. I replaced that and the actuator rod which was broken just like every other one in this body style pickup is and I had to put in a new ignition switch because the original had a dead spot in the start position. It did run pretty good for a while, then in an effort to squeeze a few more MPG's out of it, I gave it a simple tune up (plugs, wires, cap, rotor...), after which it began to misfire and loose power. I'm still not sure what's causing that one! Shortly thereafter, the damned ignition switch when bad again...though, I can't remember why I had to change it the 2nd time, it was over a year ago.

However, most recently, it had died on me because somehow, the inertia switch was tripped. After some looking and searching I finally found it, reset it, and presto! The dead fish is flopping around again! Still misfiring like a son-of-a-gun, though. Anyway, I took it out for a drive and as I'm cussing the engine's insubordination, the truck altogether dies going down the main drag of town....so, I floor my clutch, hit the key and it fires back up, no problem. I pulled over and played around with it a little. The start position is fine, but this time it's the run position of the switch that has several bad spots in it...first after you start you're in a spot that leave the engine on, but no other functions (heater, radio, dash lights...). Turn slightly back from that and you get everything working but it's touchy...any farther back and everything is dead, still in the run position, mind you! But, I've found if you're real quick about it and turn the key back fast and accurately enough, you can find a spot past the kill zone where everything works but it's still touchy...the damn truck died on me several more times nursing it's sorry @$$ back home to the shop, again! A medium sized bump in the road sometimes was enough to kill it and other times it would just do it out of the blue, probably just to keep me on my toes, I suppose.

Anyway, long story short, that's the new symptom and this adds up to be about the 4th or 5th time I've replace this switch. What is the deal? Is there an issue with these trucks I'm unaware of or is the parts store just selling me bad stuff over and over again? Or am I installing it incorrectly? Just a plug in and 2 bolts, so it's easy enough for me to mess up, I guess.

Any thoughts or wisdom is well appreciated!

-Kenny

 

That large copper junction that the actuator rod goes into could be worn out. I've done away with that whole assembly. From up top at the steering wheel on down to where the actuator rod pushes that bar thing, and rewired all that direct, essentially bypassing the ignition circuit. I have the famous push button to run juice to the starter, too. And there are toggle switches where necessary. I know that there will never be another problem with the ignition circuit, EVER - ( except to replace a worn out toggle, but they are U.S. made switches so that may never happen ).

 

I've seriously been thinking about putting it back to a push button start, but doing it the right way. The PO, as I said, had it like that but you had to turn the key as far as it could go, use a pair of pliers to push the rod forward the rest of the way, then hit the button to start the engine. The starter stuck on my a couple of times and got the battery good and smokey, not to mention knocking out a starter and several solenoids.

perhaps if I did it so the steering wheel still locked without the key so even if someone broke in to start it, they couldn't drive it anywhere?

 

it sounds to me like the ignition switch separated. i have seen it quite often and have 4 in the garage.
as for the rough running after the tune up, i bet you put platinum spark plugs in it, rite?

the older ford engines do not like platinum plugs.

preferred spark plug is either motorcraft, or autolite copper core plug.

 

It's been awhile since I tuned it. Probably about May or June last year, then it died in July and I was so put out with it that it sat until this month before I wanted to work on it again. So...I don't remember what plugs I put in it, but probably the autolite platniums. I bought motorcrafts for it yesterday and will probably swap them out tonight and see if that makes a difference.

What do you think of NGK's in the 300's?

 

No Good Krap

ngk plugs are good for 2 stroke motorcycles, but not for ford trucks.

 

I know some of those dirt track drivers like running those in their hopped up engines. I've never really heard an opinion on them as far as Ford engines were concerned. Thanks!

 

A thief will get around a locked steering wheel easily. My idea to stop a drive away theft was to put a hidden kill switch in the cab, at the fuel pump wire circuit. That way even if it gets hot wired, there will be no juice to the fuel pump. Also, it could prevent a hijacked vehicle scenario if you are in the vehicle and someone tries to take it from you at gunpoint or something. Just flip the switch as you exit the vehicle.

 

haha, that's a good idea, but here in Nebraska, I don't think I need to take such measures to make sure my truck with massive amounts of rust, dents and tan paint now faded to more of a pinkish color gets stolen at gun point. Hell, half the time I leave the keys in the ignition and never have a problem with it (with the exception of north Omaha...rough place to be). Even if someone steals the truck that I'm talking about in this thread, it's only a $700 loss.

Sometimes, I consider forcing someone at gun point to steal my truck...but, I suppose that would be insurance fraud...and insurance fraud is illegal......

 

I have a home made trailer that no one would want to steal and no one wants to buy it either. I've tried.

 

At least it is better then the truck that i bought last week. 89 f350 I have the same problem with mine. Have to move the rod and then go out to the solenoid and jump it to start the truck. The po even went as far as to strip a section of wire for the fuel pump and run a wire from the ignition were he stripped another section of wire and just rapped them together no tape or anything.

 

I don't understand why people do things like that. They either knew what they were doing and were just being lazy or had no idea what was going on and didn't want to pay someone who did. Then poor suckers like us get to try and solve the rubic's cube of a mess they've made. Some people's kids!

 

That would be this massive fuse located below your steering column. You have to take your fuse panel off and you will see a massive hunk of metal with 4 big bolts. You are looking for the connector located in front and above that. It is a white fuse type thing, it is either lose or broken. Mine was loose and wouldnt stay tight so I put a big zip tie around it and it held it in place. I will take a picture either tonight or tomorrow and post it.

 

just to kinda close the door on this whole thing, that's exactly what was wrong with it this time. the little metal tabs that hold everything together separated and it was splitting in half. I have no clue why it would do that, it's not like there is alot of force exerted on the actual switch itself...but lesson learned (again). I've since bought a better quality switch then framed and hung the receipt on my living room wall for when this one goes bad so I can take advantage of the lifetime warranty for a change!

The spark plugs were a different deal, I had motorcrafts in there, but I swapped them out for a fresh set anyway. the old ones seemed ok, but the truck runs alot smoother now. beats me, but I think I'm going to make an attempt to sell this truck. I have enough projects racking my brain, I don't need another.

Thanks for your help, everybody!

 

there was a defect with the switches ford was buying. i have side of the road fixed and replaced at least 50 stock ignition switches over the years in 87 to 91 trucks.