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i have blanked off the iacv and the truck idles normal. but only after i get it started with either. just unpluging does nothing which is why i stated something is telling the iacv to open too far and restrict fuel. not enough fuel on start up but once i get it started with either it will run normal with the iacv blocked off and without blocking it off it idles at two grand.
Ok with the key off unplug the IAC connector, test the wht-lt blu wire in the connector for continuity to ground.
If find it has continuity to ground unplug the harness connector from the PCM and retest.
Pcm is computer in kick panel or something under hood ?
Its in the firewall slide into a pocket down low under the master cylinder, stands vertical and is connector nearest the fender. The harness connector is only part of it proud of the surface of the firewall.
One 10mm bolt in the center holds the connector in place.
Thx for the link. 88 is the same location as OP's 95 ?
Yea I believe its the same (and someone please correct me if I'm wrong), only difference would be if actually removing the PCM from the truck.
Later models pulled out from the engine side of firewall, earlier models removed from under dash? Other then that same location for the harness connector.
Check the TPS, I know it sounds ridiculous but I've seen this be the problem on several of these engines.
YES. Check the Throttle Position Sensor. My '94 F-150 with the 5.8 had a high idle problem for the last few months. I hardly left the yard with it. Last week I decided I was going to fix the thing or spend a lot of money trying. I had already replaced the Idle air control valve. Decided to try the TPS next and I got lucky and that fixed it. I was going to replace sensors until I ran out of sensors or patience.
My advice try the TPS or get a Haynes manual and a multi-meter. The Haynes manual tells how to test most of the sensors.
Another thing to look at related to the starting issue is the MAP sensor. I have seen several cases where the MAP was passing the KOEO/KOER tests but the output signal was not correct. Before tossing on a new one run the KOEO tests and check for stored codes (CM).
i have vacum gauge pressure is normal and steady. also have fuel gauge and pressure is correct. almost certain its electrical something not telling the injectors to supply fuel at start up. even with the iac unplugged and closed or blanked off, i still have to use either/ carb clean to get the truck to start. but once it starts it stays running. time to check wires. very frustrating you know for an ex aviation electronics expert i still hate this stuff. makes me remember why i got out the navy.
i have vacum gauge pressure is normal and steady. also have fuel gauge and pressure is correct. almost certain its electrical something not telling the injectors to supply fuel at start up. even with the iac unplugged and closed or blanked off, i still have to use either/ carb clean to get the truck to start. but once it starts it stays running. time to check wires. very frustrating you know for an ex aviation electronics expert i still hate this stuff. makes me remember why i got out the navy.
Unplug the connector to the MAP sensor, see if the truck starts without "priming" it. As I said before the MAP sensor has caused the same no-start issue more than once on these forums. You can test it as I suggested before, but you can also go cheap and dirty and just disconnect it as a test.
Do not let the Ford EFI system get you down. You just have to learn how it works. It's really pretty basic. I work on medical imaging equipment for a living, it keeps my skills honed but really once you learn some of the basics of Ford EFI it starts to makes sense pretty quickly.
I will add to what I said under No. 22. I also had a bunch of weird issues in addition to the fast idle. There were days I would try to start it and it wouldn't start. Try it another day and it would start. Let it sit and warm up to normal operating temperature, shut it off and it would only restart if i held the gas pedal to the floor. Drive it down the road and it wouldn't shift right. Bottom line replacing the TPS solved all these issues as well as the fast idle.
What I'm trying to say is try to fix the fast idle problem and it will likely solve your starting problem as well. Yes, I think it's a sensor.
So what happens when u unplug MAP sensor an try to start engine ? It shouldn't start, right.
When I was trying to troubleshoot mine I unplugged the MAP sensor. It slowed the engine way down and I was getting black smoke out of the tailpipe(excess fuel condition). I had no trouble starting it with the MAP sensor unplugged.
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