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One of the little tabs under the hood that holds the long rod that operates the jack broke on my truck. (It's one of two little tabs that connects at the top of body of the truck near the radiator.) They are held on with 2 rivets. Well, one had broken last year and I replaced it with one from another truck. Now the other one broke and the other spare I have is already cracked. The metal has some springness to it so it's not really something I could refabricate to the same specs with regular sheetmetal. I've been trying to think of some solutions other than visiting a junkyard and getting another temp answer. Anyone have this issue and if so how did you fix it?
One of the little tabs under the hood that holds the long rod that operates the jack broke on my truck. (It's one of two little tabs that connects at the top of body of the truck near the radiator.) They are held on with 2 rivets. Well, one had broken last year and I replaced it with one from another truck. Now the other one broke and the other spare I have is already cracked. The metal has some springness to it so it's not really something I could refabricate to the same specs with regular sheetmetal. I've been trying to think of some solutions other than visiting a junkyard and getting another temp answer. Anyone have this issue and if so how did you fix it?
If it was me, I'd just set the jack and the rod that goes with it up under the seat if they'll both fit.
I personally had one of those little bottle jacks that came on the truck as well as a lug wrench. The lug wrench was on the drivers side and the bottle jack was on the passenger side fender under the hood. I undid the 28 years of rust and grime on those wing nuts and put them both in my toolbox, that way if I needed them I wouldn't have to screw around trying to get them out.
Eventually, I think I'm going to just get me a floor jack to put in the toolbox on my bed. Those bottle jacks aren't worth the money that's used to make them in my opinion, plus a floor jack is so much nicer.
Unless you're worried about keeping those tabs and the rod up under there, I'd just let nature take its course.
Eventually, I think I'm going to just get me a floor jack to put in the toolbox on my bed. Those bottle jacks aren't worth the money that's used to make them in my opinion, plus a floor jack is so much nicer.
Problem is I have so much stuff behind the seat as it is. I don't really want to add another thing back there. If there's a reasonable solution that allows me to keep it in the same spot I'd prefer it.
One of the little tabs under the hood that holds the long rod that operates the jack broke on my truck. (It's one of two little tabs that connects at the top of body of the truck near the radiator.)
E3TZ-17091-C (replaced E0TZ-17091-C) .. Retaining Clip-Jack Crank Handle to Radiator Support / Obsolete
Applications: 1980/89 F100/350 & Bronco except F250/350's with diesel engines.
KINSEL L/M in Beaumont TX has 8 = 800-816-2894.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 21 = 800-543-4959.
PARTS INTERNATIONAL in Farmers Branch TX has 32 = 800-543-4959.
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Tired of messin' with that loong jack crank handle, and/or the clips that can snap off the second you remove the puppy?
Get one a the following, stick it under or behind the seat, cuz it has a hinge, so it can be folded in half.
82Y-17081-B .. Jack Crank Handle / Available from Ford.
MSRP: $26.45 // FTE sponsor PARTSGUYED.COM (Horizon Ford in Seattle) price: $19.04.
These handles will be found in many 1975 thru today Econolines, some Ford trucks since 1938.
Thanks again NumberSmarty! I have known some very good Ford parts men, and you are among the best.
JP at Champion Ford, Dallas was another great one, from the way back machine.
Just thinking, if you can't find the tab, would a releasable zip tie work. We had them at work works ago.
Along that same line in the I.T. field they have Velcro straps to hold cables neat but when you have to replace 1 or add more you can undo it make your cable move and strap the wires back down.
A pop rivet with a large washer to hold it in place and you are set.
Dave ----
I think I'd just replace with OEM if available or fabricate a clip. I guess they are springy type steel? Mine ain't broke. There must be plenty of those at your friendly neighborhood wrecking yard.
You will find most junk yards near large cities dont hold anything older than 10 years old and that was 30 years ago so it may be down to 5 years old now?
I would try the Ford dealers that Number dummy listed to see what they may have.
Dave ----
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