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When i did a flip kit on my Ranger I had to re-use the stock plate. That flat plate does appear to be bending, so the stock plate would prolly help alot.
I wouldn't have guessed that plate was 1/4" looking at it before you mentioned it in actual numbers.
Thought it was thinner then that, maybe not half that but thinner.
Sounds like you gotta plan now, heavier plate new u bolts and lock it down tight.
You could use the shim as a test, loosen the u bolts and slide it in there and see if it makes a difference, "just right" with it or if you feel its to much or not enough shim.
Use that info for final assembly, trim the U bracket the right amount eliminating the need for that shim. No need to wonder if it will stay in place etc, shimming needed (if any) built right into the bracket itself.
I would have used the stock plate, but this was 3ish years ago and I was not that "mechanical" savy. I couldnt figure out a way to mark where the offset hole was to be and drill it or "torch" it like some people did.
The plate may actually be thinner than 1/4". I have tons of new plates and they are all 1/4" and heavy as ****. All I did was go to a machine shop and told them I need a 1/4" steel plate with given measurements.
When i did a flip kit on my Ranger I had to re-use the stock plate. That flat plate does appear to be bending, so the stock plate would prolly help alot.
I kick myself in the *** for not doing that.
Originally Posted by 86F150302
I also used the stock plate.
x2
Originally Posted by danr1
I wouldn't have guessed that plate was 1/4" looking at it before you mentioned it in actual numbers.
Thought it was thinner then that, maybe not half that but thinner.
Sounds like you gotta plan now, heavier plate new u bolts and lock it down tight.
You could use the shim as a test, loosen the u bolts and slide it in there and see if it makes a difference, "just right" with it or if you feel its to much or not enough shim.
Use that info for final assembly, trim the U bracket the right amount eliminating the need for that shim. No need to wonder if it will stay in place etc, shimming needed (if any) built right into the bracket itself.
I am almost 100% positive the new plate and u-bolts will make up for the difference. I just went and tried to re-torque my u bolt nuts and couldnt torque them to the right spec without the plate starting to bend.
Thanks for your help man! You have helped me in nearly every time. I am curious as to what you are running? You seem to be very familiar with these trucks lowered..
Well a little info for anyone interested. I had to notch my frame because I was lowered 6" in the rear. In doing so I decided to make it a project in re-doing the entire rear end. Pulled everything apart on the suspension and removed the bed. Got the notch cut and installed and prepped and painted the frame rails. I was on the final assembly stage and was about to start assembling the leaf springs to the axle, then realized the u-bracket used for the "flip" was bent. I was like "uhhh that dont look right". I couldnt figure out how it would be possible to bend 3/8" thick steel but it did. Djm says they have never heard of this happening and "dont know what to tell me".
Figured them being bent were also giving me the bad pinion angle. Needless to say I am going to be switching everything to Belltech.
bent brackets
Was soo close to having this puppy on the road today.
So after talking with a few people and a guy on f150forum.com pursuading me. I ended up going with a weld-on perch. I will be ridding of the bolt-in stuff with all the lowering companies and weld on some heavy duty spring perches below the axle. No brackets worrying about bending or something breaking.
These are them, from Calvert Racing.
not bad for $39 a pair also called and the guy was very helpful. Will have them here by thursday and also gave me a run down on how to instal them prior to welding. Well worth the $50 imo
hey thumper, i did a 4' hanger and shackle drop on my 94 f150 and took out the bottom 2 leafs and the drop came down too 6'. i'm pretty happy with it for now but, i'm looking to take out 1 more leaf just to see what it would looks like but i think it might be too low as i carry things in the bed every once in a while. as of right now i'm in the process of carrying building materials for my grandparents home remodel so that 1 more leaf is going to have to wait for now.
Nice! I only removed the giant over-load as it is completely useless. Even when you carry huge loads they will hardly ever touch. I would of been fond of taking out leafs but I have heard horror stories about weakening the leafs and making them to soft and causing axle wrap like crazy!! I have it all thought out now and it should darn near be bullet proof for a 7" rear drop.
I realize I'm late to the party, but those brackets should be gusseted, and 1/4 would work fine for the U-bolt brackets, if it wasn't flat (couple of bends and a gusset).
I do agree that the weld on perches are a good Idea though.
thumper, i have lakewood traction bars to prevent that spring from wrapping up. i also noticed that the ride came smoother and not so stiff with all the leafs in there. i did buy cal-tracs but i didn't install it yet as the lakewood is doing fine for now.
i personally would buy the spring perch an do it that way.. i kno people that have done it as well... those djm brackets look rather cheap.. i use all belltech components and would reccomend them to everyone
i personally would buy the spring perch an do it that way.. i kno people that have done it as well... those djm brackets look rather cheap.. i use all belltech components and would reccomend them to everyone
I have belltech saddles coming today. I thought your truck was a 4/6? Did you do the belltech 7" flip kit?
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