make sure the valve body is torqued correctly.too loose or two tight and you could experience 1-2 harsh shifts.see pic for more details

you should have started a new thread though.probably both of you guys have unrelated issues from the op lol.

 

TPS was bad when I bought it so I already replaced that (however put it in that position is a moron!)

No additives. I put the transmission in back in February, filled her up with a new filter and new fluid and away we went. That was also like MAYBE 2,000 miles ago. I know i'm not up for an oil change yet since I bought it so its less that 3k for sure.

I do not have a trans temp gauge in my dash if that helps you any with that question.

Now as for the rpm rev before the shift and what not, its hard to explain because it never does it the same way twice in a row. when it first does it, it gets up to about 3k rpm and then jumps, bangs, and slams into the next gear. After that it stays in that gear until i get it up over 2,000-2,500 and i have to let off the accelerator before it will shift again. when i do, again its a jump, bang, slam into gear. . .

since my last post, it hasn't done it again since then... thats what i mean by how horribly unpredictable this damn thing is!!

 

out of everything i learned about cars since i was a kid, I REALLY wish i had more transmission experience... aside from removing the entire thing and putting in a new one... I have NO CLUE what you are talking about or how it works or how to get to it........ lol sorry. i'm heading to google now to see if i can find anything to help me understand!

is all this info you gave me in a Haynes book? If so i'll pick one up tomorrow?

 

I had one going at one point. I'll resurrect it if I can find it again

 

could it be possible that I have a Shift Solenoid out? or will a code tell me this? I'm stopping by Oreillys and renting their code reader tomorrow so I'll have more info hopefully tomorrow evening!

 

yes.
yes.
but why jump to such conclusions already? it could also be a number of other more basic things too.don't assume is something serious.9 times out of 10 it's not.
your focusing on how the trans shifts right now.i know it seems scary,but it's just in safety mode.this doesn't mean anything is necessarily seriously wrong with the trans.
you don't want to keep driving them while the OD light flashes,because like you say,they will rev high and bang into gear.your not supposed to drive the truck in the same manner as when the OD light isn't flashing.
preferably you get it towed,or simply drive home limp style,like 25-30mph nice and easy until you get a code reader on it.when you keep driving and letting it bang into geared due to the increased line pressure,that's when you can do serious damage to internals.
it could be all kinds of different things,all of which would just be guesses without a code reader.
there are also some fuses interconnected to this trans with other things that can cause limp mode when blown.
also brake lights (the 3rd one out can trigger it too) even a faulty tow package harness pin/wire.

you start by making sure everything is clean for plugs,followed by checking for any blown fuses,or blown bulbs on the truck.then the codes.usually by then you have a very good idea whats causing the issue.
without first following these things,it's all a guess unless you have something obvious happening.which you don't,or haven't mentioned yet anyway.

 

well luck for me, "limp mode" hasn't happened since the day i said it happened and even when it has happened before, it only has to be like that for 1/4 mile at the most from my dads yard to mine.

So I got codes for you!

KOER Test

DTC 172 (HO2S) sensor fault/lean
DTC 332 Insufficient EGR Flow
DTC 538 Insufficient RPM Change

KOEO Test
DTC 111 ????
DTC 172 (HO2S) Sensor fault/lean
DTC 332 Insufficient EGR Flow
DTC 452 VSS Fault Signal

Now, before you go saying something about that VSS... I got a replacement one, actually two of them. With my old one in, I pull this code but my spedo works fine. Put the new one in, same code,but my spedo bounces all over hell after about 45mph. My VSS is on the top of the rear Diff. So for my sake, I put the old one back in so I have a proper speedometer. And again, since like Friday or whenever I said that it did the shift last, it hasn't done it since. Also, with the new VSS in, it has shifted hard once too. Thats when i put my old one back in cause it didn't work so i might as well have a correct speedometer...

hope i didn't confuse the crap out of anyone...

My 3rd brake light is no longer the standard bulb that was in there. It was blow when i bought it so i put an LED bulb in there instead. its still that 119 or whatever its called, but its LED... would that have anything to do with it? All the fuses are good all the way around this thing, both visual inspection and test light inspection.

I can look at the tow harness wiring if you still think I need to... this heat wave crap sucks so let me know if its still in my interest to go digging around under there to look it over...

Thanks again everyone, especially FORDF250HDXLT for all the time and effort! we'll get her figured out! I got too many plans waiting for her to just act right before I go fixin her up all pretty like!

 

It seems that perhaps you have debris in the tone-ring on your axle which can possibly be causing your erratic speedometer. It is also common for the speedometer module themselves to go bad.

You need to fix the speedometer issue though. The speedometer sends the speed signal directly to the computer, and if the computer receives garbage it's not going to shift right.

If the computer goes into limp mode, it will also force the transmission to shift hard. In my experience an O2 sensor code will NOT cause it to go into limp mode, and neither will an EGR code, but they certainly are not helping.

Code 111 just a generic code indicating the computer hardware itself is fine or all systems pass.

 

tone ring, found some info on that now, what would you suggest to clean it up?

When i changed the fluid in it after I replaced the trans, it noticed some spots that seemed like rust but it didn't really click with that VSS... how the hell did i not put that together...

soon as I get time, i'll pull that cover back off, just let me know what is safe to use. I got emery cloth if that will work? I read up on how to replace it and that does not sound much more fun than changing a kids dirty diaper that isn't your kid!



I AM A *******!.... wow

 

Just your favorite cleaner and a rag should get most junk off it. If there is rust or burs on it, just use emery cloth like you said. Make sure you get every spec of metal debris from the sanding out though!

 

Well guys, I think I'm about done until it does it again... this is just a PITA and going no where!!

Took rear end cover off, rotated wheel so i could cover every bit of the tone ring, got it all pretty as new. Put cover back on, filled with fluid, removed old VSS that was in when it pulled the code. Put the new VSS sensor in and now instead of bouncing around on the speedo at 50mph, it does it at 15mph....

I havent had a hard shift in a while and putting that new sensor in didn't do anything different besides **** me off that i wasted all that time. Why the crap would a new VSS make my speedo go wack but an old one that is forcing a code does just fine???? the two sensors look different but i know my guys at Oreillys and we've gone back and checked the number over and over to make sure its the right one and its right.... looks different but the one that looks the same says it goes in the transmission and instead of $23 its $52... if i get a hard shift again I think i'm going to go get the $52 one and just try it cause I'm at a total loss already since it won't do it all the time. Drove it about 70 miles round trip last night for fireworks show and it didn't do it once. took highway there and gravel roads back, a/c on there and windows down on way back. didn't jump once....

Don't get me wrong, I'm happy as a kid at Christmas because what seems to be the cleaning the wiring harness did the trick.... i'm just not comfortable to say she's good to go and put a trailer on it yet...

So for now I'll leave this thread as "CLEAN YOUR WIRING HARNESS FROM FRONT TO BACK" as thats what seems to have done it for me... Make sure your TPS is good and your VSS is good and you should be alright....

Thanks again for all your help guys, really appreciate it! If anyone has any other suggestions or ideas or just something you want me to check, let me know!

 

As I mentioned earlier, if the problem still persists it is probably the speedometer module itself. They are known to go bad.

 

so then why does it work just fine with the old VSS? when i say old, i mean the one that came with the truck...

 

Hi folks, OP here with update. Checked wiring connections and fuses per diesel junkie's post. Changed fluid and filter by my local tranny guy...he couldn't find any problem either. Truck went about 100 miles with no problem but is now shifting hard and I picked up another 628 code. Going to try the seafoam next. Will advise.
Apologies to those expecting immediate feedback on results of suggested fixes. This truck is located on property I visit at best about once a month so it takes time to do the trial and error process. Thx to all for your patience.

 

thanks for the update OP! look forward to seeing your outcome!