Just wondering what headers I will be able to bolt on that will fit my stock lift and an E4OD tranny. I plan on pulling the motor to replace all gaskets, but I don't want bolt on some headers that don't fit when I drop it back in.

I plan on taking out the cat and using a good flowing muffler, so i wont be needing the bolt on flange for that. Also I don't care if it has true duals, so I would most likely run the headers to a Y-pipe without a flange.

Let me know if any of you have done this, or if you know that a certain brand and part number will fit the best. TIA

 

There are a few threads not too old on this exact subject.
Start on page one and read the topics until you find it. I don't have great luck with the search feature on my iPhone. But the topic is recent and you'll find lots of good info while you look. I'm guessing 2 threads are no more the. 3-4 pages back at most.

To sum it up
L&L headers if you wanna build your own exhaust.
Banks makes a sweet stainless kit from headers to ypipe all the way to the back.

 

Thanks. I like the banks setup and i know it will fit, but the cost is crazy. Oh and I should have mentioned that they need to allow for air injection(A.I.R.), just because I don't want to take off the pump/bracket/headache.

 

Get a smog pump delete pulley from a mustang. That usually fits.
I need smog stuff in pa.
L&L has the egr stuff as well as banks. They are both 50state approved

 

I deleted my air pump and I'm glad I did. I bought the big, glorious nickle plated king tuna headers from L&L and went to bolt em to my engine before we dropped it in. The ports on the headers were way too big for the ports on the stock heads. Luckily the place I bought em from let me return em and get some hedman headers. They come with a port for the EGR setup if you're gonna keep it. They also run the same path as the stock manifolds.

Just be sure you get the right ones for you heads and transmission. I'm sure hedman makes them. Check out jeff's bronco graveyard. They will make sure you get the right ones.

 

Seems to me they sold you the wrong ones. My efi L&L headers fit perfect in my 95 and my other set fit perfect in my 77.

 

The first ones were my fault. They pointed me in the right direction after that.

 

I broke down and just decided to go with the banks power pack. I am gonna get the torque converter and transcommand as well, because I pull my skid loader long distances from time to time. It will cost me, but I know the installation will be simple enough to do it myself.

When I put it in I'll try running it with an open Y-pipe and the air pump disconnected, to see if it triggers any check engine codes. If it doesn't... the air pump will come out along with the cat, and emissions be damned.

Thanks for the input. I'd still like to go cheap, but as long as I have the money, I'll go the lazy route.

 

You won't be disappointed with the banks kit.
Just remember to get the swaybar drop brackets to go with it. If I remember, the kit didn't come with them and I needed them. I drove the truck a month with no swaybar.

I never had an issue running no cat. And the smog pump consumes a bit of power so I'm told. The egr I always left in place but blocked off the port.

 

"Bracket, sway bar link (required for 1-ton, 4wd)
Ford 460 Trk, 1 Ton S/D, 4WD Part # 48899"

Banks Power | 87-97 Ford - 7.5L EFI>>PowerPack® System

Do you still think I'll need it? where does it mount to? remember i have a 250

 

what year, model was it on? was it a 460?

 

Aah yeah. 460

1995 4x4 crewcab longbed F350 and ZF5-47 manual trans

 

Sorry i didn't mean to insult your Intel,I just like to be sure. Did you remove the air pump or what did you duo with it? If you left it on what did you do with the air line that went to the cat?

 

You will be pleased with the Banks torque tubes. I know I am. As for needing the sway bar brackets. there is no need on the F250.
I do suggest buying stainless header-to-head bolts. The ones Banks gives you are GARBAGE. I replaced all mine with ARP stainless ones

 

I bought the powerpack that has provisions for the A.I.R. system, EGR and O2 sensors. I may take off the air pump and plumbing and just plug the ports on the headers. I also bought the banks billet torque converter and transcommand computer.

I also bought a punisher valve body for my E4OD. I plan on taking several pics/videos of the install process, so you will be updated.

I am going to test it out when I get the headers on without the air pump hooked up to see if it sets off a CEL.

I still need to know how to bypass the pump... Can I get an Idler pulley in that position or a smaller belt that just goes on the alternator?