Overheating help...
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New User
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Seattle, Wa
Overheating help...
69' F150 I got a few weeks back was running a little warm on its first couple test drives, so I decided to change out the thermostat. When I removed the water neck, I found that she wasn't wearing a thermostat at all! Purchased, and installed new one, and ran her for a few minutes to warm up, and be sure there were no leaks. Alls well until I drive about a mile, and suddenly she's blowing steam like a Melville novel. I guess now I know why the previous owner just removed it? Unless this brand new thermostat is just bad, I'm stumped. Gonna take it out and try the old water boil on the stove, but I've never seen a thermostat fail like that. Any idea's? Is there any way that this points towards a ........I dunno.....blockage in the heater core or something? I did turn on the heat, and it was blowing nice and warm while the truck was overheating.
Thank you in advance...........
Thank you in advance...........
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 83
From: NorCal
A blocked heater core wouldn't typically cause overheating since only a little bit of the coolant is circulated through the interior heating system. However, there could have been a blockage that dislodged and is now clogging up the block or radiator.
Btw, have you checked your timing lately? Too far advanced can cause it to run warm. Other possible causes is a slipping belt, a fan mounted backwards, lack of a fan shroud, or...
I suggest a visual inspection of the radiator. After sitting overnight, remove the radiator cap and look down at the cooling tubes. If there are any signs of corrosion then that's a clear sign to perform a flush of the entire system. A very thorough flush (forward and reverse) requires that you remove the pipe plugs on the engine block. If nothing flows out of the block, lightly poke a small screwdriver to loosen up the crud. I like to flush the heater core separately because anything in there that is loosened up shouldn't be circulated through the engine's nooks and crannies. After flushing, run it with straight water and see how she behaves.
Worst case scenario is a blown head gasket and that's a whole 'nutha story. Good luck to ya.. I'll keep my fingers crossed.
Btw, have you checked your timing lately? Too far advanced can cause it to run warm. Other possible causes is a slipping belt, a fan mounted backwards, lack of a fan shroud, or...
I suggest a visual inspection of the radiator. After sitting overnight, remove the radiator cap and look down at the cooling tubes. If there are any signs of corrosion then that's a clear sign to perform a flush of the entire system. A very thorough flush (forward and reverse) requires that you remove the pipe plugs on the engine block. If nothing flows out of the block, lightly poke a small screwdriver to loosen up the crud. I like to flush the heater core separately because anything in there that is loosened up shouldn't be circulated through the engine's nooks and crannies. After flushing, run it with straight water and see how she behaves.
Worst case scenario is a blown head gasket and that's a whole 'nutha story. Good luck to ya.. I'll keep my fingers crossed.
New User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 24
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From: Seattle
A cooling system flush is a good first step, I've had good results with the flush kits.
Here's how I do it; install the tee into a heater hose, remove the thermostat, make a temporary gasket from the flush-kit cardbord, reinstall water neck and flush away a cool engine while running and heater valve on. Removing the thermostat beforehand is important, will allow circulation through the entire sytem.
Be sure to orient the thermostat correctly when reinstalling, (the spring towards engine)...I learned the hard way on my first car!
Good luck, keep us posted!
Here's how I do it; install the tee into a heater hose, remove the thermostat, make a temporary gasket from the flush-kit cardbord, reinstall water neck and flush away a cool engine while running and heater valve on. Removing the thermostat beforehand is important, will allow circulation through the entire sytem.
Be sure to orient the thermostat correctly when reinstalling, (the spring towards engine)...I learned the hard way on my first car!
Good luck, keep us posted!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
I wouldn't bother with the t-stat, there is big circulation issues here. Water pump could be bad, or the whole system gummed up. I'm thinking the latter. Heater core seems to be functioning.
Whether you do a flush or take it to a radiator shop, I think that is where you need to start.
John
Whether you do a flush or take it to a radiator shop, I think that is where you need to start.
John
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
Pull the radiator and dump it out. Does it still feel like it weighs 100#? Then likely it's gunked up and not flowing well enough. They can look perfect, but the tubes are plugged. Been there, done that. Radiator shop can test it for you.
New radiator isn't bad for these trucks, like $150 if I recall. Been about 6-7 yrs since I bought one for mine at local shop.
New radiator isn't bad for these trucks, like $150 if I recall. Been about 6-7 yrs since I bought one for mine at local shop.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
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i'd be looking hard at the water pump.
is it weeping coolant? i think i remember reading that they were designed to begin leaking a bit when they went bad, as an indicator.
thinking out loud: if the radiator was plugged up, you'd have gotten steam on your first test drives, and the thermostat wouldn't have made any difference.
but when you put in the t-stat, the water pump couldn't build enough water pressure in the block to get the hot water up against the back of the t-stat, so it never opened...and you got steam.
don't quote me there- i do NOT work in a radiator shop...
is it weeping coolant? i think i remember reading that they were designed to begin leaking a bit when they went bad, as an indicator.
thinking out loud: if the radiator was plugged up, you'd have gotten steam on your first test drives, and the thermostat wouldn't have made any difference.
but when you put in the t-stat, the water pump couldn't build enough water pressure in the block to get the hot water up against the back of the t-stat, so it never opened...and you got steam.
don't quote me there- i do NOT work in a radiator shop...
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
Likes: 575
From: Brentwood,CA
What psi rad cap? It should be a 16lb cap in good shape I have seen lots of people put the wrong cap on these mostly a 13lb cap.
The heater core has no function in the cooling system.
The stock water pump has a force fit impeller and if the cooling system starts to rust it causes the impeller to slip and fail. Good news is the pump for these is super cheap, under $45.00 new!
The lower radiator hose should be in good shape and have a spring inside of it to prevent collapse, is it there?
Fan,Shroud and Radiator all need to be in perfect shape for the system to function.
One last thing does it look like the engine has been rebuilt? Very possible if the rest checks out good that the head gaskets were installed backwards.
The heater core has no function in the cooling system.
The stock water pump has a force fit impeller and if the cooling system starts to rust it causes the impeller to slip and fail. Good news is the pump for these is super cheap, under $45.00 new!
The lower radiator hose should be in good shape and have a spring inside of it to prevent collapse, is it there?
Fan,Shroud and Radiator all need to be in perfect shape for the system to function.
One last thing does it look like the engine has been rebuilt? Very possible if the rest checks out good that the head gaskets were installed backwards.
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From: Michigan
Just a quick note, if the thermostat is put in backwards it will over heat. Believe me I know !!
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Yup #1 Thing for a newbee is putting the Thermostat in backwards. A some what plugged Rad plugs where you can't see it is in the lower tank where the coolant flows upward through the tubes to the top tank. So if you see any alkali build up around the upper tubes in the top tank is also build up in the bottom. I'd take the radiator in to a shop and have it rod out and cleaned and tested..You may have done some damage getting it hot.
Also a vacuum leak and a bad vacuum advance will also makes it run warm.
orich
Also a vacuum leak and a bad vacuum advance will also makes it run warm.
orich
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New User
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Seattle, Wa
Wow....I didn't think I'd get this much helpful advice! I guess it might have helped if I'd have admitted to the work I've already done. #1.....there is no fan shroud installed. Hell, I didn't even know this truck was supposed to HAVE a fan shroud. I am working on this truck so far, without any sort of manual's. (just got my first in the mail, but it doesn't look real helpful) Just prior to this, I had also replaced the alternator and belt. I wonder if the new belt somehow caused to much tension on the water pump pulley? Anyway....I'm on a real shoestring budget here, so here's what I've done withOUT spending anymore money.
Removed and tested thermostat...check
Hand flushed block in reverse by removing thermostat and inserting hose into water neck. Water flowed cleanly out the bottom hose which had been removed from radiator......check
Radiator removed, and flushed separately from both directions....check.
All hoses inspected for wear......check
I have yet to put it all back together, but when I do, I would assume that if it's still overheating..the next step is the water pump. I wasn't seeing as much circulation through the top of the radiator as I would have liked anyway.
Removed and tested thermostat...check
Hand flushed block in reverse by removing thermostat and inserting hose into water neck. Water flowed cleanly out the bottom hose which had been removed from radiator......check
Radiator removed, and flushed separately from both directions....check.
All hoses inspected for wear......check
I have yet to put it all back together, but when I do, I would assume that if it's still overheating..the next step is the water pump. I wasn't seeing as much circulation through the top of the radiator as I would have liked anyway.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
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sounds like you've checked it out pretty good.
i'm going to go out on a limb and say that i don't think the shroud is critical, unless you spend a lot of time stopped (like at stoplights). that's just my opinion, though.
as long as you didn't have the thermostat in backwards, its looking like its time for a water pump.
i'm going to go out on a limb and say that i don't think the shroud is critical, unless you spend a lot of time stopped (like at stoplights). that's just my opinion, though.
as long as you didn't have the thermostat in backwards, its looking like its time for a water pump.
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New User
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Seattle, Wa
I am NOT certain that I bled air out. Hell, all I did was shove a garden hose in the top of the water neck and walk away for 10 minutes. When I returned, the water was flowing freely. I assume that when I put it all back together again, I'll have to repeat that until it fills the radiator up to the top, and then continue topping off with the engine running, and the system under pressure. I suppose I should have mentioned earlier that I do know which direction a thermostat is supposed to face, so that isn't an issue. If the weather holds out this morning, I'm gonna put her all back together and see what happens. If it still overheats, I'll replace the water pump tomorrow.
Here is a pic of the truck.....it's a 3/4 ton 69' chassis, engine, and 4 x 4 drivetrain, with a 65' cab and bed.
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/...2-25-11051.jpg
Here is a pic of the truck.....it's a 3/4 ton 69' chassis, engine, and 4 x 4 drivetrain, with a 65' cab and bed.
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/...2-25-11051.jpg