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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 06:50 PM
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cranking speed issue

Ok guys after replacing battery cables today with 4/0 gauge wire still getting a slow crank issue. I original decided to change cables due to batteries testing good an the starter testing good. So I made up new cables. I was cranking 130 rpm and got it to 170 rpm. Ok so Im thinking the batteries are just weak. Hook a jumper cables up and gain 20. It was on the wife's escape so I pull the batteries and get them tested. One is showing weaker then the other. They are mismatched. Well I decide ill replace them both. Decided on 31 group batteries since they are more cranking amps but bigger. I'm going to mod my battery trays.

I'm only getting to spin 195 and that's it. Will start on brake clean and of course the glow plugs are
unhooked. I'm thinking the starter is just weak. The starter shop said it should be fine but I think its just gone. It's original 217000 on it. I got a SD starter from oriely's earlier. Gonna put it on tommorow. Anything else to check before I bolt this on.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 06:51 PM
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On yea btw it will not start on its own hot or cold. Will not hit the threshold to fire off the idm.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 07:20 PM
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Yeah, change the starter. These things will just slow down over time and eventually won't spin it quick enough.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 07:23 PM
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Ok man. Thinking of doing it now. Supposed to snow I'm the am.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by bad12jr
Ok man. Thinking of doing it now. Supposed to snow I'm the am.
Starter only takes maybe 30 minutes to change out if your motivated.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 07:44 PM
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When the auto part stores test a starter it really doesn't put a load on it so really it's just like testing it on the floor with a pair of jumper cables and a battery


My bet is on the starter
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by fordpride
When the auto part stores test a starter it really doesn't put a load on it so really it's just like testing it on the floor with a pair of jumper cables and a battery


My bet is on the starter
X 2 .......
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by bad12jr
It's original 217000 on it... Anything else to check before I bolt this on.
Yeah; check the numbers on your lottery ticket. If you've gotten 200,000+ on a starter, you're one lucky son.

Only other thing to remember is that you have to ream out the solenoid wire terminal to fit the SD starter, and if they're cheap and didn't include one, you'll need the nut.

+1 on the FLAPS test; you might get lucky and get a counterman who doesn't look like he's out past curfew, with enough experience to know by ear whether a starter on the tester is really good or not.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 08:48 PM
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NO GO on the starter. 173 is as fast as it will spin. The glow plugs are still unhooked. No smoke from the exhaust. I'm lost at this moment. Checked over everything. All the connections are tight. Resistance to the block through the grounds is .4 ohms.

Took the starter to a local altenator starter guy.

Anything else guys?
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 08:50 PM
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^^^^^ That's on the SD starter?

What's the CCA on those group 31 batteries?
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 08:52 PM
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Yes. The new starter.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 08:59 PM
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And its 47 degrees here. So not overly cold.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 09:29 PM
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What happens if you jump the solenoid on the fender maybe it on it's way out and killing the voltage to the starter.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 09:30 PM
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Same thing.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 09:55 PM
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I thought my cables were bad so I got this:eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices and this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/XSP-D6500/. $1K and it proved I didn't need new cables, spins over fast. How did you measure the rpm's, scangauge? Now when I look back, man o man that was a lot of money.

Anyway, all the suggestions mentioned is all I can think of.
 
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