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Ok after some searching on the web. Have another question. What Rpm does the pcm tell the injectors to fire 100 150 or 200. I don't think its a cps problem. It will start with a small shot of brake clean. And once it is started runs like normal. All kinds of power, no funny vibrations and no weird smoke to lead toward an internal problem.
It started all of a sudden which is what is weird. Put the trans back in and drove it around fine for 3 or so days. When to get in to go to work and hard start in the am and leaving work but was also 20 outside. Got home and went to move the truck and no start. That is how this all started.
I don't think that its an HP oil problem but I guess it could be. It will roll start fine as well. Going down the road shut it off and it wont start with the key but come out on the clutch and it will.
Measured with tool I have on my phone with an OBD adapter. The only thing that it reads pretty dang accurately is rpm and speed. As I've tested a few times. I'm catching you on that $1000 figure and the wife ain't liking it.
Ok answered my own question. The starter and such isn't the problem. It is definantly spinning over fast enough. 100 rpm is what the pcm needs. More stuff to check tomorrow.
I'm wondering what your cranking voltage is on the batteries. If the voltage is dipping too low while cranking the IDM won't fire the injectors. Roll staring it wouldn't pull the voltage down and it's possible that the brake cleaner is getting the thing running long enough to let the voltage come up and the IDM to fire the injectors. Have you tried jumping it with another vehicle to see if that helps? It seems like a long shot since you have the GPs unhooked, but it is worth a shot I'd say.
Cranking voltage at the battery is 11.3v. Will not even attempt to hit hot. Key on voltage is 12.7v hot. Going to run to ford monday and hook it to the computer and check all the sensors while cranking. Need to get AE but after wasting 600 bucks on useless stuff I don't see it happening at the moment. 70 is a lot cheaper if I can figure it out. But it does sound a whole lot better cranking and doesnt seem to drag down as quick so not a bad investment anyway.
Yea they are in there. Had to slightly dent the hood in on the driver side to clear the neg post. Going to make a battery tray that will sit about a 1'' lower for both. Only reason I bought the group 31's were price $20 cheaper per battery and CCA at 950. Also a little longer reserve time. I will say they will crank the motor pretty good. Just now to get it to start.
Cool. Yeah I found some today that are 1000cca and $20 cheaper per battery but I wasn't sure about fitment. Went with some Motorcraft Max @ 850 cca, 36 month replacement, & 37-100 month prorated warranty so if they crap I'll have a chance still.
Ok after some searching on the web. Have another question. What Rpm does the pcm tell the injectors to fire 100 150 or 200. I don't think its a cps problem. It will start with a small shot of brake clean. And once it is started runs like normal. All kinds of power, no funny vibrations and no weird smoke to lead toward an internal problem.
It started all of a sudden which is what is weird. Put the trans back in and drove it around fine for 3 or so days. When to get in to go to work and hard start in the am and leaving work but was also 20 outside. Got home and went to move the truck and no start. That is how this all started.
I don't think that its an HP oil problem but I guess it could be. It will roll start fine as well. Going down the road shut it off and it wont start with the key but come out on the clutch and it will.
I'm no expert, but from this statement, it's obvious to me that it's NOT turning fast enough to fire up, when you use the key.
Having it "role down hill" and popping the clutch, gives it the "momentum" it needs to start.
Sounds like it's in the "starter" circuit, somewhere.
My guess would be, the starter. I know it's new, but that's my ques.
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