Supporting engine for transmission removal
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More Turbo
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 532
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas
Supporting engine for transmission removal
Getting ready to roll the tranny back for clutch assembly and slave cylinder replacement. Chilton manual says to support the engine at the bell housing; not happening with the M5OD. And the factory service manual doesn't even mention it. Anyone here ever removed their tranny without supporting the engine?
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,214
Likes: 13
From: New Jersey
Nope, never have, always supported the engine in some way or another.
Stack of wood blocks just underneath the back of the block.
A piece of black pipe across the inner fenders or shock towers with a cargo strap wrapped around the block and hooked on.
One time out of absolute desperation (replacing a in-bell slave cylinder on the side of the road) I simply put a piece of 2x4 between the back intake manifold and the firewall. Wasn't my favorite way to do this but considering my options at the time...
Stack of wood blocks just underneath the back of the block.
A piece of black pipe across the inner fenders or shock towers with a cargo strap wrapped around the block and hooked on.
One time out of absolute desperation (replacing a in-bell slave cylinder on the side of the road) I simply put a piece of 2x4 between the back intake manifold and the firewall. Wasn't my favorite way to do this but considering my options at the time...
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,728
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From: Cleveland, TN
This is my favorite way, sure helps with aligning things..
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More Turbo
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 532
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas
Thanks for the replies. So far two of you say no need to support the engine, and two say to do it. LOL, I get the same 50/50 percent from the service manuals on-hand. I guess it won't hurt to support the engine. I'll be like White 97 xlt and use the bottle jack and dunnage method as lew suggested; should help with alignment when I go to roll the tranny back in.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,214
Likes: 13
From: New Jersey
As others have said not supporting the engine doesn't hurt anything, I just think it makes the job far more difficult because of the angle the transmission needs to be while bolting it back in. I find it easier to do the job if the engine/transmission are fairly level - mostly because I'm not using a transmission jack and instead, a floor jack or a stack of 2x4's or some other "unprofessional" method of supporting the trans. Sometimes, just my legs.
Remember, if you're doing the job by yourself, you need one hand to put the bell housing bolts in finger tight. If the trans is balanced level on a jack, you very well may have that hand available.
Remember, if you're doing the job by yourself, you need one hand to put the bell housing bolts in finger tight. If the trans is balanced level on a jack, you very well may have that hand available.
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i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
ditto. small jack with a block of wood on the oil pan. this way when you go to put the trans in, you can raise or lower the back of the engine to align the pilot shaft up with the clutch and bell bolts to the block.
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More Turbo
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 532
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas
As others have said not supporting the engine doesn't hurt anything, I just think it makes the job far more difficult because of the angle the transmission needs to be while bolting it back in. I find it easier to do the job if the engine/transmission are fairly level - mostly because I'm not using a transmission jack and instead, a floor jack or a stack of 2x4's or some other "unprofessional" method of supporting the trans. Sometimes, just my legs.
Remember, if you're doing the job by yourself, you need one hand to put the bell housing bolts in finger tight. If the trans is balanced level on a jack, you very well may have that hand available.
Remember, if you're doing the job by yourself, you need one hand to put the bell housing bolts in finger tight. If the trans is balanced level on a jack, you very well may have that hand available.
Hopefully that, and supporting the engine with a bottle jack, will make it easier to reinstall the trans. Tried to detremine the c/g of the trans by eye, so I'm hoping that the jack is in the right position. It is just aft of the bell housing.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,791
Likes: 8
From: Edmonton AB, Canada
i had my m5od out coupe times in my old 92 f150. all i ever did was put y knees nder the bellhousing (theres 2 indents in the perfect spot) and grabbed the tail slid the tranny back onto my chest then rolled to the floor and out from under th truck. these transmissions arent very heavy.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
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From: South Dakota
i had my m5od out coupe times in my old 92 f150. all i ever did was put y knees nder the bellhousing (theres 2 indents in the perfect spot) and grabbed the tail slid the tranny back onto my chest then rolled to the floor and out from under th truck. these transmissions arent very heavy.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,791
Likes: 8
From: Edmonton AB, Canada
yes i installed it the same way... removed he transfercase first then the transmission. by my self with a ratchet and 30" of extensions to reach the last 2 bolts holding together on the top of the bellhousing. and then reverse to go back in. on knees and hands on tailshaft lift into place and slide the input shaft into clutch plate(this part is harder... heep tranny in 5th gear so you can wiggle the output shaft to allign the input with the clutch. i think the m5od is only about 80lbs or so without the tcase. third time around i cold haveboth drive shafts tcase and tranny out on the floor beside truck in about 3hrs by hand by myself
i ave also done this with my old 77gmc... and let me tell you i let the transfercase of that thing onto my chest and holy crap that one is heavy...used a jack to put that one back in...the ones on our trucks are nothing compared to those...
but yes my old boss used to call me an ape being 300lbs and 6'6" and all
i ave also done this with my old 77gmc... and let me tell you i let the transfercase of that thing onto my chest and holy crap that one is heavy...used a jack to put that one back in...the ones on our trucks are nothing compared to those...
but yes my old boss used to call me an ape being 300lbs and 6'6" and all
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,791
Likes: 8
From: Edmonton AB, Canada
to the original question, i never supported the engine when i removed my transmission.
as was said previously the motor is pretty well balanced and the exhaust as enough to hold it level. mind you i was installing the tranny by and so i could wiggle it around until it slid into place or tilt the tranny as needed.
the gmc mentioned above i ad to put a block in the engine bay between intake mainfold and firewall as it wanted to tip backwards
as was said previously the motor is pretty well balanced and the exhaust as enough to hold it level. mind you i was installing the tranny by and so i could wiggle it around until it slid into place or tilt the tranny as needed.
the gmc mentioned above i ad to put a block in the engine bay between intake mainfold and firewall as it wanted to tip backwards
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 4,197
Likes: 558
From: Central Wisconsin
I'll be using on of these: Transmission Jack - 450 Lb. Capacity
Hopefully that, and supporting the engine with a bottle jack, will make it easier to reinstall the trans. Tried to detremine the c/g of the trans by eye, so I'm hoping that the jack is in the right position. It is just aft of the bell housing.
Hopefully that, and supporting the engine with a bottle jack, will make it easier to reinstall the trans. Tried to detremine the c/g of the trans by eye, so I'm hoping that the jack is in the right position. It is just aft of the bell housing.