Ball Joint time.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Charles Town, WV
It's F81Z-3254-CB. The large PITA seal. It's snowing here in D.C. but is still suppose to warm up tomorrow so I'll continue to plan on tomorrow. After that it's gonna get a lot colder and I'm a wuss outside. I'll try and go easy and see what happens, worst case is I have to buy a new one. Napa has them too for a little over $50. I just really need it done quick to get the current inspection sticker on.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,407
Likes: 155
From: Milwaukee, WI
A lot of times the old seal will die on the way out so have a new one handy. If you don't need it, just take it back. You will for sure need a new one if you are using the factory ESOF vacuum hub. If you have Warns or Mile Marker manual hubs then not so much.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,566
Likes: 18
From: The Great White North!
I went ahead and used the XRF ball joints this last September. Just read too many good reviews about them on all the other forums, especially dodge trucks. With the larger size tires you run you may find others wearing out quicker.
Makes no sense for the lower price on the XRF, but before I installed them I had a good look at them and they do look better than the stock ones that came off. Time will tell tho in the end. Makes you wonder how much upcharge on the other ball joints?
Makes no sense for the lower price on the XRF, but before I installed them I had a good look at them and they do look better than the stock ones that came off. Time will tell tho in the end. Makes you wonder how much upcharge on the other ball joints?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Charles Town, WV
Thanks Wallz, I hope the XRF joints work out. A lot of people are using them. If they were offered in stores I may have been more apt to try them, I need them by tomorrow.
I picked up the Napa Premium upper and lower joints for the driver's side, the big seal and yellow hub seal. One of the joints said made in Taiwan but the other said Assembled in USA so the guy went in the back and found another upper that was assembled in USA. So much for made in USA. At least I'm helping to keep Martha and Beatrice on the line.
Now hoping the sun will come out tomorrow so the temp will rise fast. If it would fit in the garage, I'd be out there right now.
I picked up the Napa Premium upper and lower joints for the driver's side, the big seal and yellow hub seal. One of the joints said made in Taiwan but the other said Assembled in USA so the guy went in the back and found another upper that was assembled in USA. So much for made in USA. At least I'm helping to keep Martha and Beatrice on the line.
Now hoping the sun will come out tomorrow so the temp will rise fast. If it would fit in the garage, I'd be out there right now.
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Posting Guru
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From: Charles Town, WV
Maybe just the nose, but my 60 gallon compressor is right where I'd be sitting to work on the driver's side. Plus if anything happened and I had to stop, I wouldn't be able to close the garage door. It's 20 feet deep but still small, my 4Runner barely fit.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,198
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From: Tulsa, OK
Mike,
I have done the ball joint job twice--on the 2003 at about 80K miles and on the 2005 right after I bought it (I think 70K miles). In both cases, I went with Moog.
The 2003 went another 100K miles with no noticeable problems. I don't know how much longer they went for the 2nd owner.
You may need longer than one day to do both sets of ball joints. It is a pretty big job. The big yellow seal can maybe be saved by lubing it up with silicone grease or similar. If if fails, you will have to do a lot of work to restore 4x4 function to the truck.
I have done the ball joint job twice--on the 2003 at about 80K miles and on the 2005 right after I bought it (I think 70K miles). In both cases, I went with Moog.
The 2003 went another 100K miles with no noticeable problems. I don't know how much longer they went for the 2nd owner.
You may need longer than one day to do both sets of ball joints. It is a pretty big job. The big yellow seal can maybe be saved by lubing it up with silicone grease or similar. If if fails, you will have to do a lot of work to restore 4x4 function to the truck.
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From: Charles Town, WV
It was so nice today, I waited a while for it to warm up. We had a high of 54. I positioned the truck so that side was in the sun and went to town. It was WAY easier than my F250 but it had 233k miles on it. Everything came apart easily. A few wacks to the rotor and she came free. I used a 3 jaw puller to separate the unit bearing which made it a breeze. I did have to search the town for a 33mm socket. I thought I already had one but it must have been a friend's that helped with the F250. My wife drove to the next town and picked up a socket from Advance Auto. I also coated the outside of the dust seal (where it spins against the axle tube) to help keep it tearing off. That seems to be the first thing that happens to these. When it starts warming up for good, I'll tackle the other side. My test drive proved an already better ride. I had a light thud on bumps on the driver's side, it's gone now. Some pics.
My helper.
So pretty.
Seated.
My helper.
So pretty.
Seated.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
Always make sure the jackstand is solidly on the axle. I always used to put the jackstand on the tube itself and bumped up against the spring pack so it couldn't slide. Also leave the jack under the axle next to the jack stand, it may be in the way a little bit but double the safety is a good thing! Many of man have had their legs cut off by falling cars or worse. Also important to use wheel chocks when using jack stands.