Problems caused by idling?
Looking at the data again it appears that the engine is still gradually warming up at the 10 minute mark. At some point I would imagine the data line flattens out so the optimum non SEIC idle time would be when the temp line starts to flatten. The oil temp line also flattens a little at the 4 minute mark. Perhaps that is a good time to start driving the truck.
Looking at the data again it appears that the engine is still gradually warming up at the 10 minute mark. At some point I would imagine the data line flattens out so the optimum non SEIC idle time would be when the temp line starts to flatten. The oil temp line also flattens a little at the 4 minute mark. Perhaps that is a good time to start driving the truck.
some testing this weekend at 1200 rpm and I'll post back the time to reach diminishing returns on oil and tranny temps. In fact. I'll send you the data so you can add it to your sheet.
I am also going to track idle hrs on the dash over the next number of days to see if the ecu considers 1200 rpm non-idle time.
Thirty seconds should be adequate regardless of the outside temperature as long as you use the block heater when required at -10° F or below. I normally spent that 30 seconds idling out to the road from the parking spot.
The important thing to remember is that you should go easy on it until the engine gets warmer. I was real light on the pedal until the temperature gauge started to move, and never applied full throttle until the engine was at, or at least close to, operating temperature.
These things start, run, and drive just like gas engines do with the technology that's used today. Maintenance is more crucial with a diesel, but letting it idle to warm up isn't necessary anymore. That went out with the introduction of the first electronically controlled diesel engines, which was 1994 for Ford.
Yeah, I've been idling mine too long, due to ignorance.

As far as making the cab comfortable, my truck came with the rapid heater option. I found if I set the control to 90 degrees, floor outlets on, and fan on high, the cab will warm up in no time.
I do wish the truck would of came with seat heaters (bought it as is /off the lot), that's the one option it was missing, that I would of liked. Maybe I'll get an aftermarket heated seat pad, that I can plug into the compartment under the center seat.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Not much worse then the times I sit in traffic around Boston for hours but at least I keep my old bones in comfort. This is one of my highest priorities in life and nothing will change this at this point. Being I live in the woods no one cares.
It's been sitting all day unplugged and I'll be starting it in about 5 mins so I'll let you know. Still -25C out.
Truck said -27c outside. Didn't sound the best starting and was a hair rough but fired on 2 nd crank.
Immediately jumped to 1150 rpm and counted down for 22 secs before it said was ok to drive.
10 mins at high idle has my oil at 20C.
The interesting part is it never dropped out of high idle, even after the oil warmed up. Control Must be based on exterior temps.
Another interesting bit is that my run time just increased by 1 hr but my idle time didn't move so looks like high idle is considered running, not idling.
Data:
7:05 -24
7:07 -22
7:08 -20
7:09 -19
7:10 -14
7:11 -6
7:12 3
7:13 10
7:15 19
7:17 27
7:20 35
7:25 42
7:30 49
7:35 53
7:40 56
7:45 58
Ext -27c
1150 rpm
Driving:
7;50 70
7:55 75
8:00 78
8:10 81
A little later, exhaust filter cleanining kicked in at 78C oil temp.
I let her sit for a bit and then drove her easy and she came up to 69C. I stopped and high idled for about 10 mins or so and she only dropped to 67C.
Cheers, JC

I'm curious as to how much it would have come up at regular idle as well but given I don't need to worry about that anymore, perhaps someone else can test it. I wonder if it would even have gotten past zero. Regardless, normal idle is not good for the truck anyway, that much is well established.
I was also thinking some more and figure that rpm alone (even without considering the improved combustion) would reduce wet stacking just by keeping the flow/velocities through the cylinder chambers higher, which might prevent any unatomized fuel from dropping out (especially at colder temps) and blow it out with the exhaust gases.
So here we have an example of a truck running for 40 minutes under temperature. Had the truck been driven for half as long as it was idled it would have made it to operating temperature.
Insert style winter front, or the dreaded quilted blanket style. I plug mine in when I am home, but really can't at work, although sometimes I am able. I have noticed on the really cold nights lately. 10-20 F, it takes a long time for it to heat up to full temp on the dash needle when I leave work, 15 minutes of highway driving before it gets there, and that's with warming it for ~10 mins. SEIC 1200 RPM's. Glad I have heated seats; wish I had rapid heat. I'm considering getting the winter front just to speed up the time it takes to get to operating temp...
I do have a winter front. I installed a black poly sheet behind the grille.
I will also say that at -27C ambient (-20F) I'd be surprised if the oil ever hits 99C. Maybe under heavy load but not putting around town. 83C seemed to be my max last night.
And yes, no doubt truck will warm up way faster but you need to be in the truck freezing your nads off for that. This at least confirms to me that it should be OK to high idle the truck to get it moderately warmed up before you get in. What it does tell me though is that 10 mins is probably ideal for my purposes. Any less and you're sitting in a stone cold truck for at least 5 mins.
The most important piece here is that if you only have a 10 minute commute, you can at least get 2/3 of the way to normal op temp without even getting in the truck. That means bybthe end of the commute you might actually have hit normal op for a short time. This is better than always driving it cold, at least in my mind. And the added benefit is that you don't have to freeze to death either.









