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Looking to start a full restoration on my 76 this spring. I'm gonna need every body panel that they make as my truck is very rusty.
Just wondering what the best option for body parts is. Is there "better quality" jobber panels than others or are they all the same. I'm assuming all the oem panels are long gone. I see that LMC truck has everything that I would need but not sure on the quality.
Aftermarket panel quality is iffy at best. Most are Chinese crap. About the best quality wise is Tabco, they're made in the USA. Welcome to Tabco but they don't have a lot of dentside panels.
One thing you might consider is looking for a donor truck. That's what I did for my project. When you figure in the purchase price of the panels, the freight (most panels will have to be shipped truck freight$$$$), crating charges, then the labor to change them. Locating and buying a complete truck that is in good shape made sense. Swapping the cab and bed isn't that much work and if you're doing a full frame-off then the extra work is negligible.
I wish I could find a rust free donar truck, but I'm located in northern Manitoba Canada and the salt has got to most all of the trucks of that age. I might have to make a run to the southern U.S and look for one!
Also with a good rep is "Dennis Carpenter", just google him.
Have not heard anything about the fit on any above mentioned possibilities, but at least not any bad things on here about them. Except for LMC's big parts are not the best fit, especially the grill shells.....ect....
"Craigslist" 79 Ford and ck the states just south of you or like Ches said come a little further south, we are not to bad of a rust state here in Missouri depending it its a farm truck.
I hear stuff in the south west is RUST FREE $$$
I'd be more than happy to road trip one your way but I am outa state working and heading outa country soon, so sorry can't help ya on that one.
If you do decide to make a run south of the border, head to the southwest. That's where most of the rust free stuff will be found.
Check Craig's List for places like Phoenix and other areas to see what's available in any given area.
i wish i had more time..id run one up closer to ya..i have a few old cabs an stuff that are not real bad.. but getting into cananda with a parts truck is like pulling teeth..
If you do decide to make a run south of the border, head to the southwest. That's where most of the rust free stuff will be found.
Check Craig's List for places like Phoenix and other areas to see what's available in any given area.
I agree. I'd routinely check the various Craigslists in the desert southwest.
I bought a rust-free 1977 F-250 Ranger XLT 2wd in pretty nice shape for $750.00. I had it shipped by a company called American Road. I couldn't have driven it back for what it cost to ship.
As a general rule the aftermarket sheet metal isn't the same quality as oem. I really think you'll come out ahead in terms of cost, quality and time to find a rust free truck from the southwest...
Another big plus of using a donor truck, the sheetmetal is already installed! You can't beat factory fit, nothing is going to be pieced together, no plug welding, no lap joints where there weren't any originally, etc.
When it comes to installing new sheetmetal, even with NOS factory pieces it's very common to have to "beat them into submission" to get them to fit properly. With a donor, that's already been done and you can see the fit before you buy the truck. There won't be any question as to how the panels are going to fit together.
And when you are looking remember, "rust free" to one person might mean something totaly different to someone else. I've seen a few "rust free" dents' that would've given swiss cheese a run for it's money.
And when you are looking remember, "rust free" to one person might mean something totaly different to someone else. I've seen a few "rust free" dents' that would've given swiss cheese a run for it's money.
That's Great advice too!
Years ago I was in Texas and drove about three hours to look at a "rust free" Z/28 Camaro. When I got there I was very disappointed. The car was in terrible shape and was completely misrepresented. The seller claimed "it wasn't that bad". It was a complete waste of time...
I would ask for lots of high resolution photos and if the seller won't (or "can't") send them I'd look elsewhere.
Also ask the seller to take pictures of the usual problem areas such as the bottom of the doors, the inside cab floors, etc, and shots of any issues the truck may have such as dents, body work etc.
Ideally you want a truck that has never been re-painted and hasn't had any body work. That may seem unrealistic, but remember Ford built a gazillion of these trucks and you only need one.
If there are no available rust free donors, buy some tools :-)
a good bead roller with the 3-4 dies you need, a stretcher/shrinker, 4 dollies, a few hammers and slappers and you are in business.
You'll get better quality stuff doing it yourself and you'll learn a hell of a lot. Not to mention the cost difference between buying the tools equals a heck of a lot of 20gauge you can buy to learn with.
At the end of the day, you get to keep the tools for your next project.
Good luck,
Drew
As a general rule the aftermarket sheet metal isn't the same quality as oem. I really think you'll come out ahead in terms of cost, quality and time to find a rust free truck from the southwest...
2X... the body contour lines on aftermarket panels aren't stamped as crisp as OEM. For a true resto, donor body panels are the only way to go at the moment.
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