First for me to hear that. I went and put electric fuel on mine and my filter is down below on the frame.

 

They were just the wrong diameter. It was almost as if the lines were a size in between the two tools I have. The 5/16" tool wouldn't close over the line and the 3/8" was loose enough that it wouldn't go inside the QD hose. It was a real pain. I ended up cutting off a 4" or so section of some 1/4" or so poly tubing I have and splitting it down the side, then jamming it into the connection to release the latching tabs. The tools worked just fine on the return line though.

 

You could add a filter to the fuel system. However, you are dealing with steel lines for the most part. There isnt a lot of pressure , but , I could see adding a section of hose causing some issues as far as leaks in the future are concerned. You could possibly add a spin on filter to attach down by the frame too. However, they usually have at least 3/8" NPT fittings and that would add even more components to risk of leaks in the future.

Just out of curiosity whats your plan on cleaning the tanks out? I have done it a couple of different ways. The best way was when I took it to a radiator shop and had them put the tanks in their cleaning vat. Then they pressure tested them and painted them up. I think that ran me $85.00. Now with all of the plastic/aluminum radiators out there the radiator shops are going by the wayside. There isnt one in town with hot tanks big enough to do it.

When I did the one on my Bronco I pulled it down and rinsed it with some solvent. Then I filled it with some laquer thinner(about 2 gals), threw about 4' of heavy chain in it and sealed it up. I took it for a ride strapped to my flatbed for a few days. That seemed to do a pretty good job. Most of the crud was in the bottom of the tank so it helped that method to work well. I have also stuck the wand of a power washer inside them and gave it the business. I wouldnt reccomend this in weather below 55° though and maybe warmer than that.

 

Bruno2, thanks for the info. Lets start here, I recently bought a 95 fsuperduty, I guess this is a f450..10 lugs on the wheels,...it is a dump truck. has dual tanks, the rear most tank is small and plastic, the main tank is long and metal. the up-fitter for the dump body or someone cut a section out of the metal tank inverted it and welded back in to make room for the boom arm. this meatal tank leaks somewhere in the welded area, the guy i bought it from said the rear tank has not been used in years. ok, that rear tank sink of bad fuel, on the main tank i want to get the leaks fixed, i dont want water in my fuel. so before i started the removal, just wanted to know parts i needed to get.

 

That truck is what Ford called the F-Super Duty. It was the late 90's equivalent of an F-450. If you want to do it right, I would plan on the lock ring kits I listed above, plus new tank straps (the bolt often break when you're removing them), and something to paint the tanks with. I like POR15 for this kind of work, but at $45 a quart it is a little spendy. It works well though at treating any rust on the metal and stopping it from progressing. Then you can topcoat it with the paint of your choice.

 

hey DIY, this is good info....but I am confused on all the replies on the hose connections, WHAT tool do I need to remove both, the rear tank is plastic, so I guess both tanks have both size fittings.

 

I have a 95 F-Superduty. They are really tough trucks. They are different than the 1 tons. Some of the parts on the motor are even different than the 350-250 also.

Here are some versions of the tools:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRCK6/...SIN=B0002SRCK6

Ford quick disconnect fuel line tools - Google Search

I would buy a set of decent quality. These work for AC lines and other applications. Wouldnt hurt to add a few to your tool arsenal.

 

Yeah sorry, these trucks use a QD style hose for the soft sections of the fuel line. The hoses have a stainless steel retainer clip on the outside that just pops off, but then you have to have a tool that sticks down inside the flared end of the hose and releases some locking tabs to allow you to pull the connection apart. I would second that you should get a good quality set. The ones I got don't work that well and it is probably just because they're a cheap set. The Lisle brand has been recommended as having worked for some others. I know the NAPA stores around here carry Lisle tools, so I would suggest starting there or ordering them online if you can afford to wait.

 

ok, help me out what is different about this than a 350...i know i am having an issue with who or what can read the computer, or if it obd2 compatible, no one can seem to answer that, i asked this in another thread. what parts would be different on the engine.

 

The major difference is that the GVWR of the truck is higher. You likely have 8 or 10 leaf spring packs in the back and a Dana 80 rear end. Aside from that and the fact that your truck uses 10 lug wheels, most other things should be the same I believe. I'm no expert on the F-SD, but I am sure someone else will chime in that knows more.

If I recall correctly, the F-Super Duty was exempt from the OBDII requirement since it is classified as a medium duty truck. That's not to say it doesn't have the OBDII PCM though. Does it have the OBDII port in the cab or is the port under the hood (OBDI)? Even an OBDII compliant PSD in our OBS trucks takes a good quality scanner to be able to read the codes. Not all the cheap code readers will do the job and most of the parts store units won't do it.

 

Just for an FYI. My bed is off my truck right now as I'm having my tanks cleaned. Both my sending units had broken screens and were in poor shape. May not be a bad idea to check them out while in there.

 

Nate, I am sure it is the connection below the ashtray/g-box. I need some scanning done as I think the truck needs, an injector or 2,g-plug or 2, i have what seems as a rich condition, this all started with it leaving me stranded, i replaced the cps, and i knew there was some issues with the tanks, I paid 3k for the truck, I hope I can get it running good without alot of$$$

 

The waterpumps are different. The F-SD is a higher volume. All of the ones I have seen have the hydroboost. They do have a port under the dash. The frames are longer as well as the wheel base. The rear ends are usually like a 5:13 ratio. The front end is whats considered Ford's commercial chasis and has kingpins instead of ball joints. They have 4 wheel disc brakes as well. These axles were an earlier version of the trucks like today that have the 4 wheel disc brakes. They dont have the inner drums on the rotors where the parking brake operates from. They use a 4x4 style transmission and have the parking brake bolted to the back of it like a Tcase would be. Be careful with these if you dont have any experience with them b/c they have their own oil inside of them and have to be maintained. The one on my truck was run dry by the PO and it locked up and shattered the bell housing of its ZF5.

 

ok bruno2, you have helped me on my next question, dont want to jump around here but the e-brake is the next item on my list to know about, what kind of oil and how to adjust, i noticed mine is to the end of adjustment, looks like it is, e-brake just barely holds on level ground. and what info can you can to constant rich smell, cant really see smoke but smell is strong. i fear i have a fuel issue in the injector area, whatcha think.

 

Any oil should be fine. You can use 80/90 or even like a non detergent 30 straight 30. I think the only adjustment is on the cable it self. The drum has little shoes inside that can be replaced. If you are smelling the exhaust it is probably the downpipe for the turbo leaking. When mine was leaking it was really stinking the cab up like its trying to asfixiate you. Also if its straight diesel fuel your smelling it could be a faulty fuel pump. They have a weep hole like a waterpump has and when they go bad they leak fuel out there. Also there are a few places around the fuel bowl that can be leaking. The fuel bowl has a petcock where you can drain the water off of the fuel. Sometimes those things can get bumped into a position to where they arent sealed up good. Check and make sure the lever is all the way over. The petcock has an o ring inside the assembly too that wears out and wont let it seal also. Those are a couple. Whenever you get to that point let us know and we can go through the options of the leak/smell.