Slow crank
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 382
Likes: 0
From: Milford, CT
What was the other truck? Still check with a multimeter. By cold do you mean a cold day or motor (I'm assuming cold motor, but thought I'd check)? Is it taking a long time to start or turning over slowly (turning slow implies a longer start duration)? Try swapping another battery in, and see if it still cranks slow. Engines should be easier to turn when warm, not cold. What's the oil like? I'll try to think of what would cause that (only thing that comes to mind is a very overzealous injector, but there are no other apparent symptoms).
-Mike
-Mike
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
Likes: 149
From: South Dakota
I would take a remote starter switch and hook it direct to the starter. ie one terminal of the remote starter switch on the large battery cable terminal and one terminal on the small electrical bolt. You could do the same thing by taking a screwdriver and connecting those two terminals, but this would be safer. That would bypass a lot of stuff. Just for troubleshooting of course. Do you have a manual or an automatic transmission?
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,780
Likes: 1,746
From: Kentucky
Which "connections" did you clean? A poor ground connection at the block can manifest itself as you have described. Sometimes a battery cable will develop corrosion under the insulation. Something else to look for.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,780
Likes: 1,746
From: Kentucky
The negative cable runs to the engine block, not the starter. Your truck may or may not have the extra tab that also connects to the frame.
Take a look at Post #9 in this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ml#post9965674
Bill has some great photos of where the grounds are.
Take a look at Post #9 in this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ml#post9965674
Bill has some great photos of where the grounds are.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
Also, when you say you put a new ground on, what exactly did you replace? Just the end of the cable? I have had terrible luck with just the ends. Replace the whole cable with a one-piece molded cable. They work much better.
I really think that your battery cables are shot. It's a common problem on older vehicles. The cable insulation dries out, cracks and deteriorates. This lets water in which corrodes the cables are reduces their current-carrying capacity.
You've replaced everything else. Spend $20 and put new cables on it - the thickest ones you can find - and I bet your problem goes away.
One other thing - what's your base timing set to?