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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 05:59 PM
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updates and stuff

Well...over the winter break, I changed both the master cylinder (was leaking out the back where it bolts to the power booster) and the oil pan gasket. Neither was a terriffically hard job. The master cylinder was cake, and the pan gasket was just tedious!

When I pulled the pan gasket, there were tears at every bolt hole, and small circles embedded into the pan where someone had tightened the living snot out of the pan and pressed the little metal rings in the old gasket into it...not to mention the dip used enough gasket adhesive to hold the whole van together!

The weird part...the van now actually runs better. It has more pickup, and the transmission shifts smoother. Part of the pan gasket was completely missing. It was gone. Without a trace. Not even in the oil pan. Could that have been the source of a big vacuum leak? I'm thinking maybe. Possibly the master cylinder? I know that the brake booster can be if it fails, but it's ok. The brake fluid didn't get up inside it and dissolve the diaphragm. I have seen that happen, though...twice. Once on a Mustang, and once on an S-10.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 01:07 AM
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If you had a vacuum leak, that would certainly make the engine run poorly. I encountered 2 cases where the gasket in the vacuum brake booster that the fitting on the big hose plugs into was cracked. This happened because the engine would move on its mounts under normal operation, which can cause the metal case of the vacuum booster to literally saw through the gasket. The leak would not be consistent, since sometimes the motion would seal the small crack in the gasket.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 05:45 AM
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pulled the pan bolts out 1 at a time, cleaned and used semi permanent thread locker Blue, torqued to specs last time mine were loose on the shake rattle and roll 4.0L.
still tight 70k miles later.

tough to analyze an air leak issue after the MAF/MAP on the old OBDI systems when one doesn't know what's causing a miss or rough running engine, process of elimination. OBDII has the fuel trim PIDS which help.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 06:39 AM
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Well, it didn't run rough, per se, maybe a little, but it was more...lacking power. Yeah, yeah, I know a 3.0 isn't exactly a power house, but it seems to have more get up and go...heck, with 4.10 gears a lawn mower (yeah...I know).
 
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 04:17 PM
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I just replaced the oil pan gasket on my 4.0; it started leaking again a couple years after I did it the last time. It was a pain, as the entire 4wd drive train had to be dropped. None of the bolts were loose. The leaks were from the ends where the humps were. They almost felt like they were not being properly clamped by the pan rails. The gasket is more like an O-ring than gasket, and once the bolts have been torqued down, the clamping between the pan and block is set, as is any compression on the gasket.

I think I must have screwed something up, because I'm seeing a leak after a short test drive. The tricky part of the installation is trying to bolt the pan onto the block and the transmission to the pan and block at the same time, and doing it quickly enough so the sealer doesn't set before you get everything lined up.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 04:21 PM
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Advantage 3.0 engine :-)

The oil pan is only bolted to the engine, and the transmission doesn't. Even have to be unbolted...just lift the front of the engine.
 
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