truck keeps trashin' GPR's
#16
It wasnt a troll and I took as being offensive. Feel free to look where I have been here and see if I havent been trying to help other members. He attacked me with false accusatios and I attacked him back with what I have seen. So tell your friends not to be attacking me and there wont be hateful posts going around.
#17
The GPR is controlled by the PCM on the GROUND side of the coil, the "hot" (12v) side is ignition source and hot with the key in the run position at all times.
NAPA, specifically ECHLIN brand relays are perfectly good and I have never had a problem using them, BUT for anything electrical, it is OEM ONLY on anything I am working on. The aftermarket might be as good as OEM, but more likely it's cheap junk. Motorcraft or IH only for a GPR, just like the GPs, that's my advice.
The GPs are activated based on EOT and altitude, so if the EOT sensor indicates 120*F oil temp, even though it is really 15*F, the GPs will not be commanded on by the PCM because you don't need GPs with EOT of 120*F.
Make SURE you are getting a full 12V to the larger B+ terminal of the GPR and that while activated the voltage on BOTH larger terminals is within 1.0V of each other.
Using a substitute GPR that drwas more amps will only blow the fuse, it won't hurt the PCM because it is a ground side controlled output.
The PCM takes a reading from the engine oil temp and it has a barometric sensor if it is 94 to 97. if a 99 -03 the Baro is in the PCM that is what controls glow plug on time.
NAPA, specifically ECHLIN brand relays are perfectly good and I have never had a problem using them, BUT for anything electrical, it is OEM ONLY on anything I am working on. The aftermarket might be as good as OEM, but more likely it's cheap junk. Motorcraft or IH only for a GPR, just like the GPs, that's my advice.
The GPs are activated based on EOT and altitude, so if the EOT sensor indicates 120*F oil temp, even though it is really 15*F, the GPs will not be commanded on by the PCM because you don't need GPs with EOT of 120*F.
Make SURE you are getting a full 12V to the larger B+ terminal of the GPR and that while activated the voltage on BOTH larger terminals is within 1.0V of each other.
Using a substitute GPR that drwas more amps will only blow the fuse, it won't hurt the PCM because it is a ground side controlled output.
The PCM takes a reading from the engine oil temp and it has a barometric sensor if it is 94 to 97. if a 99 -03 the Baro is in the PCM that is what controls glow plug on time.
#18
This was the OP:
Then here is what Mike/Fordpride said:
So I am saying the man claims to have bought many and from different sources at that. I am sure he may have gotten the same brand once or twice , but , more than likely hae has used a few different ones. If they are all doing the same thing regardless of the brand thats not the problem . There could very well be something wrong with he PCM. The OP if he is like any of the rest of us there have been times when he didnt have time to wait on internet shipping and probably got one from a local parts store. I bought a IH and I bought a BW. I havent had problems with either one. They have been in sevice for at least 5-7 yrs. I think the problem goes deeper than a cheap unit. I am suspecting the ground source as the culprit. Mainly b/c that can be checked and serviced for free. So if the bracket it mounts to isnt secured or if there is paint or dirt maybe even rust it may not have a good ground. The other units very well could still be good units , but , lost their ground and caused the OP to think it was bad.
The problem is cheap GPR's like e-bay and the gpr-109 they just don't last. But where you get off telling people to go to another site because apparently this site isn't up to your standards so if that's the case then it wouldn't hurt my feelings if you didn't post here again.
#19
It wasnt a troll and I took as being offensive. Feel free to look where I have been here and see if I havent been trying to help other members. He attacked me with false accusatios and I attacked him back with what I have seen. So tell your friends not to be attacking me and there wont be hateful posts going around.
What was it that got this started ?...
#20
Meanwhile here at FTE, there's 112 currently viewing just the OBS 7.3 tech section. Most online for FTE is 6,476. And you're saying he should go to another site because they have better traffic? Or is this just the type of stuff you post when you have nothing constructive to add? Makes me wonder why you stopped by here if those other sites are so great.
#21
My first replacement GPR was a choice between a motorcraft ,napa GPR , 109 or a GPR 110 .. I settled on the Motorcraft part .. It did not make it 4 ,months .. So what is your diagnosis ?...
#22
The GPR is controlled by the PCM on the GROUND side of the coil, the "hot" (12v) side is ignition source and hot with the key in the run position at all times.
NAPA, specifically ECHLIN brand relays are perfectly good and I have never had a problem using them, BUT for anything electrical, it is OEM ONLY on anything I am working on. The aftermarket might be as good as OEM, but more likely it's cheap junk. Motorcraft or IH only for a GPR, just like the GPs, that's my advice.
The GPs are activated based on EOT and altitude, so if the EOT sensor indicates 120*F oil temp, even though it is really 15*F, the GPs will not be commanded on by the PCM because you don't need GPs with EOT of 120*F.
Make SURE you are getting a full 12V to the larger B+ terminal of the GPR and that while activated the voltage on BOTH larger terminals is within 1.0V of each other.
Using a substitute GPR that drwas more amps will only blow the fuse, it won't hurt the PCM because it is a ground side controlled output.
The PCM takes a reading from the engine oil temp and it has a barometric sensor if it is 94 to 97. if a 99 -03 the Baro is in the PCM that is what controls glow plug on time.
NAPA, specifically ECHLIN brand relays are perfectly good and I have never had a problem using them, BUT for anything electrical, it is OEM ONLY on anything I am working on. The aftermarket might be as good as OEM, but more likely it's cheap junk. Motorcraft or IH only for a GPR, just like the GPs, that's my advice.
The GPs are activated based on EOT and altitude, so if the EOT sensor indicates 120*F oil temp, even though it is really 15*F, the GPs will not be commanded on by the PCM because you don't need GPs with EOT of 120*F.
Make SURE you are getting a full 12V to the larger B+ terminal of the GPR and that while activated the voltage on BOTH larger terminals is within 1.0V of each other.
Using a substitute GPR that drwas more amps will only blow the fuse, it won't hurt the PCM because it is a ground side controlled output.
The PCM takes a reading from the engine oil temp and it has a barometric sensor if it is 94 to 97. if a 99 -03 the Baro is in the PCM that is what controls glow plug on time.
#23
I am suspecting the ground source as the culprit. Mainly b/c that can be checked and serviced for free. So if the bracket it mounts to isnt secured or if there is paint or dirt maybe even rust it may not have a good ground. The other units very well could still be good units , but , lost their ground and caused the OP to think it was bad.
#24
OK dude, this wasnt an attack or where Mike is telling me not to be posting here? Whatever man I am following the thread to get to the solution to see what is the root of the problem. Like I was saying sometimes the right people for the right question just arent online when you need them.
I am not buying Mike's claim of the cheap GPR's. Unless the Op can post up the brands so we can be sure none of them came from Ford or IH. All the Op said was that the last one he bought came from Ebay. He didnt say they all came from Ebay.
I am not buying Mike's claim of the cheap GPR's. Unless the Op can post up the brands so we can be sure none of them came from Ford or IH. All the Op said was that the last one he bought came from Ebay. He didnt say they all came from Ebay.
#25
The bracket doesn't ground the relay. As stated above (before your post), the PCM turns on the GPR by grounding it. If the PCM is working at all, its ground is good. It's entirely conceivable that the OP could be getting several bad relays. Redman's suggestion of the Stancor relay way up in post 2 is the best advice so far.
#26
Join Date: Apr 2004
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I have seen one time (internet and hands on experience combine,...I have a little of both....)where a PCM was defective only in the driver of the GP ground circuit but the rest of the PCM was in perfect working order,
#27
OK dude, this wasnt an attack or where Mike is telling me not to be posting here? Whatever man I am following the thread to get to the solution to see what is the root of the problem. Like I was saying sometimes the right people for the right question just arent online when you need them.
I am not buying Mike's claim of the cheap GPR's. Unless the Op can post up the brands so we can be sure none of them came from Ford or IH. All the Op said was that the last one he bought came from Ebay. He didnt say they all came from Ebay.
I am not buying Mike's claim of the cheap GPR's. Unless the Op can post up the brands so we can be sure none of them came from Ford or IH. All the Op said was that the last one he bought came from Ebay. He didnt say they all came from Ebay.
#28
Tell us something we don't know ,& something you didn't copy and paste from google ...
#29
Very interesting TJ. This wouldnt suprise me if it wasnt the issue the OP is actually having. I suppose a PCM swap would be the only way to determine if this was the cause and it would take months to know for sure.
#30
Aside from a stancor , there are no quality units ...