Brake Failure
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Eccles, WV
Brake Failure
Went to take the old Blue Beast in for an inspection and in the inspection lane, she blew the brake line going from the front to the rear. It was just raining near the fuel tank.
How hard is it to fix? It it easier to take the bed off or drop the fuel tank? Regardless, I will do the fuel tank and fuel line mods at this time. I do believe it would be easier to take the bed off. Only 6 bolts, unplug the harness, and the bolts holding the fuel neck in the door. Let me have your thoughts. It is snowing and the Crown Vic does not like icy weather.
How hard is it to fix? It it easier to take the bed off or drop the fuel tank? Regardless, I will do the fuel tank and fuel line mods at this time. I do believe it would be easier to take the bed off. Only 6 bolts, unplug the harness, and the bolts holding the fuel neck in the door. Let me have your thoughts. It is snowing and the Crown Vic does not like icy weather.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Burnsville, MN
Odds are you're not going to "fix" the brake line, you're going to replace the affected area. If you can wait for someone to chime in and say he was able to just weave a new line in without removing the bed you'll be getting a late Christmas present......
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Eccles, WV
With the age of the line, I plan on replacing it from the antilock block to the rear frame block. I feel it is a much safer repair, no unions. I may even go ahead and replace the two lines on the axle at the same time. Then the weakest part of the rear system will be the rubber hose.
MMNC (SS)(Ret)
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 11,598
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From: SE Georgia
might as well get some braided stainless to replace those rubber ones as well. not too horrible on the wallet, and the stainless hoses don't swell under heavy braking like rubber will
it's actually a functional upgrade. I just haven't had the extra $$$ to do it myself yet
it's actually a functional upgrade. I just haven't had the extra $$$ to do it myself yet
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Eccles, WV
Now that is an idea.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2011
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With the age of the line, I plan on replacing it from the antilock block to the rear frame block. I feel it is a much safer repair, no unions. I may even go ahead and replace the two lines on the axle at the same time. Then the weakest part of the rear system will be the rubber hose.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Wayyy NoCal, USA
Some folks have had bad experience with braided stainless, saying they failed over time. I myself haven't and still use them on all my bikes and cages...
Rubber lines work pretty darned good, but rubber does rot so change every 10 years for max safety.
But regardless, DO change (or carefully inspect!) everything you can. Consider this your warning that corrosion is merrily eating away at the metal under your truck. Sounds like they salt your roads! Brake (and fuel) tubing is not all that thick so eats through first.
Rubber lines work pretty darned good, but rubber does rot so change every 10 years for max safety.
But regardless, DO change (or carefully inspect!) everything you can. Consider this your warning that corrosion is merrily eating away at the metal under your truck. Sounds like they salt your roads! Brake (and fuel) tubing is not all that thick so eats through first.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Rural WV
Paul, I was just reading a set of posts on corrosion and several guys were talking about taking their beds off. Turns out it wasn't as easy as pulling those bed bolts. Most just cut the old bolts off and replaced them because it was easier than 'heatin' n beatin'.
Just not your month for truck issues huh?
Joe
Just not your month for truck issues huh?
Joe
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
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From: Texas
I'd suggest you take a wrench to the bed bolts. That will tell you pretty quick which way would be easier. If you've got snow out there now, then I'm guessing your truck has seen salty roads too. I've dropped my tank before and pulled the bed too. We don't have snow down here, we don't have any salt trucks, so I don't have the kind of rust than many here do. As a matter of fact, I have very little rust under the truck at all with almost 400k miles on it. When we pulled the bed on mine, I had to grind the head off one of the bolts because the keeper nut broke loose and the bolt just spun. The other 5 came out without too much trouble.
If your bolts are rusted or don't want to move, then it will be easier to drop the tank or pull the line without dropping the tank.
If your bolts are rusted or don't want to move, then it will be easier to drop the tank or pull the line without dropping the tank.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Eccles, WV
One of the reasons I was drifting towards the bed removal is so that while off, I can do some cleanup. It will also give me easy access for the hutch mod in the fuel tak, along with replace those damn fuel lines that allow air to seep into the system. I have a clear fuel filter on the frame just before the fuel pump and you can see the air bubbles. Ford, this is not one of your better ideas. It will also let me pop a dent out of the bed that I cannot reach with it on.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Virginia - SW (Riner)
While you have the bed off you might want to consider getting the underside line-x'd. Did this to several of ours and we've been very happy with it. We even line-x'd the outside of the frame when we had one off - it's not too bad just make sure stuff gets masked off. (Like the shock mounts)
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