Front core support & Body mounts
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New User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 9
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From: Michigan
Front core support & Body mounts
Hey guys, i was wondering if any one has had to replace the front core support on their Bronco's? The right passanger side is rusted and looks to be danaged (by previous owner) so that the front body mount is no longer connected to the core support (which holds pretty much everything together in the front) so when i hit bumps the front right side of the truck moves around and makes for a crappy ride. I also figured while im at it ill replace the blown out rubber dry rotted out body mounts on the entire truck. It seems pretty straight forward, has anyone done either of these two projects befor? If so what am i getting into. Thanks...
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
From: OHIO
Front core support & Body mounts
not a real bad job.i left radiator and ac in no need to remove it takes a little extra time but no mess.remove everthing up front,bumper can stay on.once you get it off the frame perch that the bushings sit on are probably rusted out,mine were.DON'T OPEN DOORS they will hit fenders.i plated the perch (weld it).with some help put the new coresupport in bolt everything to it,then raise it with floorjack and a block of wood to align the door gap. that's what the shims under the bushing are for. then tighten bushing bolts recheck door gaps take your time it will be worth it. about 6hrs work.any questions just ask.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
Front core support & Body mounts
The fenders have their own adjustments for the door & hood gaps, so don't worry about shims between the mount & core support. Soak all the body mount bolts with Liquid Wrench at least 3 times over the week prior to starting and you'll have a much easier time of it. Here's my set of instructions that several people on other BBSs have had success with:
The rearmost bolts are the easiest to get to - just remove the tailgate threshhold and peel the carpet back. The bolts (13mm heads I think) are right there. If the heads are rusted (like mine), you can file them down to a smaller hex so you can turn them again.
Continue peeling carpet forward and you'll see the access plates for the next mounts, beside the wheelwells. I think the screws have 8mm heads and all the rest of the bolts are 15mm.
The next set is just behind the front seats and I got to mine by pulling the door threshholds, seatbelt reel covers, and kick panels (for the next bolts). Then peel the carpet around until the access plates are visible.
The last inside bolts are in the footwells. With the threshholds and kick panels out, the carpet can be peeled from around the e-brake cable and high-beam switch. I think these access plates have different screws.
The core support bolts are just outside the radiator opening on the back side. These will be the worst because of battery acid and road salt.
The lower section of the mounts consists of a nut welded to a round plate with a tube sticking up. The tube has a flare near the top end.
The upper section is a plate with a tube going down that has a neck near the bottom. At the factory, these tubes are pressed together thru the frame with the rubber captive between the plates. This holds them on before the body is dropped on and bolted down. It's also the only reason this is a tricky job. The tubes lock together with corrosion over the years and when the rubber sags, they funnel grit down onto the bolts and their threads, making them sometimes impossible to remove intact.
The tricks:
1. If you can con someone competent into doing it for less than $100, get him working on it before the drugs wear off.
2. If you must do it yourself, have a good socket set with good ratchets, extensions, and breaker bars, as well as a ball peen hammer, a blunt drift (punch), vise grips, pry bars, a jack, 2-4 jack stands, a 6-foot 4x4 post, a hacksaw (Stanley Contractor with bimetalloy blades is the best), anti-sieze lubricant, and all the Liquid Wrench from your state and the 3 surrounding.
3. Soak the bolts (especially INSIDE the tubes) with Liquid Wrench several times over the course of a week before starting.
4. Use the pry bars to lift the body and get the Liquid Wrench spray tube on top of the top plate to fill the top tube.
5. Back up the nut from below (above on the core support) with vise grips or wrenches so you don't twist it off the plate.
6. If the bolt won't turn, try vibrating it with the hammer & drift
(only on the head) to loosen the threads and let the Liquid Wrench get in.
7. Work down one frame rail at a time so the body doesn't shift out of line.
8. When you finally get a bolt out, rinse it and the hole it came
out of with Liquid Wrench and thread it back in about 5 turns. Put
the drift squarely on top of the head and smack it with the hammer. After you lose a few fingernails, the tubes will separate and the bottom section will drop out.
9. BIG TIP ! ! ! Coat the threads with "Anti-Sieze Lubricant" !!!
(I use it on everything.)
10. If the bolt won't turn, or the head strips, or the nut breaks
off, you will have to hacksaw through the tubes. Do it as high as
you can so you can reuse the lower section when you eventually separate them. If the bolt breaks, you can still separate the tubes with the drift and get the bolt out later. Don't be afraid to rip the old rubber out of your way - you won't be reusing it.
11. When you have an entire side free (even if there are mounts that need to be hacksawed), put the post under the door running front-to-back along as many body reinforcements as possible. Then use it to lift the body with the jack - 2 inches should be plenty. Don't go too high or you'll damage the fuel filler and the fan or shroud. Later models also have ground straps that may be too short, but they can be pried off and hammered back on.
12. Remove the old mounts (by hacksawing if necassary) and top sections and immediately replace them with the new ones. (You should have already prepared them per mfr. instructions.)
13. Lower the body straight back onto the new mounts and reinstall the bottom sections and bolts (this is where an assistant is handy).
If you must buy new bolts, get at least grade 5 or class 5.5; grade
8 or class 8.8-10.8 is better.
14. If you have a mechanical clutch linkage (like me), adjust it.
Automatics may have to adjust the shift linkage.
You can see a picture of a typical body mount in the GP Pics album in my signature link.
The rearmost bolts are the easiest to get to - just remove the tailgate threshhold and peel the carpet back. The bolts (13mm heads I think) are right there. If the heads are rusted (like mine), you can file them down to a smaller hex so you can turn them again.
Continue peeling carpet forward and you'll see the access plates for the next mounts, beside the wheelwells. I think the screws have 8mm heads and all the rest of the bolts are 15mm.
The next set is just behind the front seats and I got to mine by pulling the door threshholds, seatbelt reel covers, and kick panels (for the next bolts). Then peel the carpet around until the access plates are visible.
The last inside bolts are in the footwells. With the threshholds and kick panels out, the carpet can be peeled from around the e-brake cable and high-beam switch. I think these access plates have different screws.
The core support bolts are just outside the radiator opening on the back side. These will be the worst because of battery acid and road salt.
The lower section of the mounts consists of a nut welded to a round plate with a tube sticking up. The tube has a flare near the top end.
The upper section is a plate with a tube going down that has a neck near the bottom. At the factory, these tubes are pressed together thru the frame with the rubber captive between the plates. This holds them on before the body is dropped on and bolted down. It's also the only reason this is a tricky job. The tubes lock together with corrosion over the years and when the rubber sags, they funnel grit down onto the bolts and their threads, making them sometimes impossible to remove intact.
The tricks:
1. If you can con someone competent into doing it for less than $100, get him working on it before the drugs wear off.
2. If you must do it yourself, have a good socket set with good ratchets, extensions, and breaker bars, as well as a ball peen hammer, a blunt drift (punch), vise grips, pry bars, a jack, 2-4 jack stands, a 6-foot 4x4 post, a hacksaw (Stanley Contractor with bimetalloy blades is the best), anti-sieze lubricant, and all the Liquid Wrench from your state and the 3 surrounding.
3. Soak the bolts (especially INSIDE the tubes) with Liquid Wrench several times over the course of a week before starting.
4. Use the pry bars to lift the body and get the Liquid Wrench spray tube on top of the top plate to fill the top tube.
5. Back up the nut from below (above on the core support) with vise grips or wrenches so you don't twist it off the plate.
6. If the bolt won't turn, try vibrating it with the hammer & drift
(only on the head) to loosen the threads and let the Liquid Wrench get in.
7. Work down one frame rail at a time so the body doesn't shift out of line.
8. When you finally get a bolt out, rinse it and the hole it came
out of with Liquid Wrench and thread it back in about 5 turns. Put
the drift squarely on top of the head and smack it with the hammer. After you lose a few fingernails, the tubes will separate and the bottom section will drop out.
9. BIG TIP ! ! ! Coat the threads with "Anti-Sieze Lubricant" !!!
(I use it on everything.)
10. If the bolt won't turn, or the head strips, or the nut breaks
off, you will have to hacksaw through the tubes. Do it as high as
you can so you can reuse the lower section when you eventually separate them. If the bolt breaks, you can still separate the tubes with the drift and get the bolt out later. Don't be afraid to rip the old rubber out of your way - you won't be reusing it.
11. When you have an entire side free (even if there are mounts that need to be hacksawed), put the post under the door running front-to-back along as many body reinforcements as possible. Then use it to lift the body with the jack - 2 inches should be plenty. Don't go too high or you'll damage the fuel filler and the fan or shroud. Later models also have ground straps that may be too short, but they can be pried off and hammered back on.
12. Remove the old mounts (by hacksawing if necassary) and top sections and immediately replace them with the new ones. (You should have already prepared them per mfr. instructions.)
13. Lower the body straight back onto the new mounts and reinstall the bottom sections and bolts (this is where an assistant is handy).
If you must buy new bolts, get at least grade 5 or class 5.5; grade
8 or class 8.8-10.8 is better.
14. If you have a mechanical clutch linkage (like me), adjust it.
Automatics may have to adjust the shift linkage.
You can see a picture of a typical body mount in the GP Pics album in my signature link.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
From: OHIO
Front core support & Body mounts
yes the fenders and doors do have there own adjustment.but if you shim the front properly you don't have to disrupt the door gap or fender.i'm guessing it has 7 to 10 shims in it now.the nut on top of the core support comes off first.then the coresupport. the bolt goes up thru the frame perch and threads into the top bushing. if your replacing all cut it off.
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Front core support & Body mounts
Hello I was just reading your posts and my front driver side body mount is completely detached due to excessive rust.Its on a 1990 f150 4x4 but Im sure its basically the same animal.I have been going out of my mind trying to locate the noise and general looseness in the front end.Well anyways is there something up there I can replace or should I plan on welding and fabricating some support?I really havent had a chance to view it in detail .Thanks Mike:
Ps I may have sent this twice... sorry
Ps I may have sent this twice... sorry
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Front core support & Body mounts
Thanks for your quick reply .Can I get the parts new ?Is it actually called the core support
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
From: OHIO
Front core support & Body mounts
radiator core support you can buy from aftermarket body panel dealers.it does the job, it may not be a Ford part,but when your done no one will know the difference,but you.
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