Hi Guys,

I need to do some work on my truck and to be honest it's a little intimadating. I am having trouble starting my truck.

I need to change out the glow plugs, and most likely buy a return line kt and install it.

I have bought a set ZD9's and I bought a manual glow plug relay off of ebay (recomended from this site)


Where should I get a return line kit for my 1988 7.3 f250 ? I don't know what I need, what it looks like, or really even where it goes. That's as plain as I can be. Ha!


I read through the eight pages of the glow plug Sticky at the top of the forum but it did not really have a step by step for the glow plugs.

Any thoughts or tips would be really welcome,
Thank you
Dan

 

you look like you're off to a great start

you should be able to get a return line kit off ebay I'm pretty sure that is where i got my last one.

Glow plugs are a simple process but things can go wrong. the GPs are located on the top of the engine they have next to the injectors. Basically you just unplug the wires fro mthe top of the GP and use a deep socket (i cant remember the size someone will chime in). make sure to go slow, as i'm sure you read the tips can swell and break off when removing them. if they turn free the whole way you are golden but if you encounter alot of resistance you may have swelling.
here is my thread on what i did for my swollen plugs https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tack-plan.html

as for the manual relay i'm sure if you bought a kit it will come with directions, but if not its pretty simple. you are basically just putting a momentary switch inplace of your stock controller. I can't give you a step by step for it though i did mine awhile ago and did it but trial and error while i was bored so i'm not the best source.

i hope that helps and i'm sure more guys will have more tips and tricks. and welcome to the community

 

Thank you turbill,
I have read the pages on plugs swelling and cracking, the magnet idea sounds great. I will get one before I start.

Dan

 

It's a 3/8" deep socket. 1/4" drive, a U-joint, and various extensions give the most flexibility around stuff...

Good luck. I was really fearful of doing mine, but I lucked out. It had all ZD9s in it, so no swollen tips.

 

You could also try rockauto.com for a return line kit. It is the little rubber pipes and caps that run along the tops of the fuel injectors.

 

PM typefour. He sells return line kits and uses Viton orings...

Thad

 

I also have kits in stock, generally trouble free brand and they come with viton orings and new olives for the steel lines to filter.


Thanks dakota ,totally missed youe post.

 

PM sent to typefour

 

Just wanted to drop a line and say thanks, I have bought the parts and plan to work on my truck this weekend.
Dan

 

Dan welcome to FTE!!! And post some pics!!!

 

PHY you nailed it that is the exact set up i use i keep it together in my tool box two 1/4"x3" extensions, 1/4" drive universal, 1/4" drive x3/8 deep socket, 1/4"-->3/8" drive adapter 3/8" drive rachet. works like a charm . you can not get a 3/8" drive 3/8" deep socket in to most of the glowplugs without taking the whole injection pump off. also a shop vac with a small hose taped on the end is usefull to get all the crap out of the area around the GP's so it doesnt fall into your combustion chamber.

The return line kit is prety straight foreward take off the plate on the front before removing the injection pump scribe the gear and the housing with something sharp (dont go crazy just make a small line that you can see so when you go to put it back together you can put your pump gear back where it was. Dont try to start your truck with the IP off you will be up **** creek. If you do get your timing off here is a good article "Talk about Timing!!". Last thing buy the good o rings and dont get them mixed up with your old ones, take all of your injecors out take all of the o rings off throw them away before you even open your new set of o rings. hope this helps
good luck

 

To be clear! You don't need to pull the injection pump or take off any fuel lines to replace glow plugs or to install a fuel return line kit. Move the fuel lines ONLY as much as needed being careful not to bend them.

It's easier to make up each side of the return lines on the bench and install, making sure to snap each fitting over each injector.

Make sure to lube the O rings and inside each fitting. You can use vasoline. I use rotella t synthetic, the same oil I use in the engine.

 

Very true ID but I dont like working around those fuel lines it is a pain in the *** and they bend, a bent injection line= trip to the junk yard trying to find a idi= no fun. I dont take off the IP to do the GP's just to do the return line kit, also if you even tweak one of the lines it is a pain trying to get it to thread back on the injector. You are right though you do not have to remove the IP if you dont want to, to do either job.

 

Hi Guys,
A couple of questions guys.
Glow-Plug
As far as the glow plugs go I was planning on trying to keep the piston that I'm working above at TDC but I'm unsure of the procedure to do this? I'm looking for the plate with the timing mark but so far I don't see it. How important is it to do this?

Return line question.
I am thinking the procedure is to remove the metal lines from the injectors and the plastic cap pulls off. Then I remove two O-rings from each injector? Lube and replace two O-rings and snap the new caps and line on, then reconnect the metal lines?


Bigger question - Once I replace the O-rings, caps and line what is the best way to purge the air from the system?
Thanks
Dan

 

Putting the piston at TDC to do the glow plugs: I have never done this I am just carefull not to drop anything into the combustion chamber. If you remove the injection pump you can see the timing marks.

The return lines: you got it. You can very carefully push the fuel lines out of the way to get at the injector or remove the IP pump just dont bend the fuel line, if you do you gotta get a new one.

Purge the air: you can crack the nut on top of #1 & #8 injector and have someone crank it over untill you get some good hearty looking squirts and tighten the nuts if i remember right it is the two rear ones, or you can just crank it over in 15 second intervals (so you dont over heat your starter) a few times and it will start. I always do the later beacuse i have to do it by myself as long as your fuel filter is full it only takes a few cranks to get her going.