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I have a '90 f250 5.0L with no spark. I made a special jumper using a condenser to test the coil and wiring between it and the tfi and it seems to be good. I also have proper power to the primary coil and to the TFI sensor so I suspect either the TFI or the stator pickup. I have tested the TFI's resistance between various terminals according to a shop manual and it seems to check out okay. Does anyone know how to test out the stator or would I have to just buy one and put it in? Could there still be a problem with the TFI module? Can the EEC module cause spark to not work? How would I tell?
the simplest thing to do do would be replace the stator and module. You can test the sator by probing the pip wire,pin 56 at the pcm dark blue at the dist.Should change from 12volts (DC) to near 0 volts while cranking.It would be easier to see the voltage switching by removing the dist. and turn it at slow speed while rotating it by hand with the connector still plugged in and key on.It will also require grounding. Another method is to buy a logic probe (about $18 @ radio shack) probe the dark blue wire and watch for the lights to blink while cranking. It was a kinda common for the module, stator, and coil to all burn out at once.
My fuel injection book says to test the pick-up in the distributor, hook a tachometer to the blue wire coming out of the dist module. It should read zero when the engine is sitting still, and something other than zero when it's cranked.
The book says there is no reliable way to test the TFI module without some special equipment, and to just replace it.
Also if the neg side of the coil blinks when cranking, this proves out the stator. A crud test for the module is rotate the engine over until a window is exposing the hall device in the dist . Quickly apply 12volts to the blue wire with a pick. If the module and coil are ok, and wiring, there should be a spark each time you do this. Also try unhooking the SPOUT wire and see what happens.
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