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We have been struggling with our truck for about 10 days now. It was shutting down, like you turned the key, after starting and running for less than 2 minutes. After extensive reading ont he forums and manual tests we replaced the CPS, ICP sensor, alternator, and finally broke down and bought the Auto Enginuity scan tool. These are the codes we are getting:
Have you cleared these and these are the codes that come back? the 1298 IDM failure doesn't sound good, then bank 1 and 2 high side opens, have you tested the wiring?
Sounds like a possible idm failure. Do the checks Alan posted. Try to do an injector buzz test that should retrieve any codes stored in the idm. With the 1293 and 1294 you may not even be able to perform the buzz test.
I have yet to convince hubby to pull all the stuff out of the way to check the UVCH wiring. It is very frustrating because if the truck sits (say overnight, or all afternoon) it will fire right up with no error codes. Go out an hour later and it either won't start, start rough, or start and die with a plethera of errors. We have run through the standard checks of fuel heater, fuses, unplugging sensors. He will be pulling the fenderwall off to check the IDM and the those stupid UVCH wires today if I have to stand over him with a whip!
Well the drivers side was loose, passenger side was good. Shimmed them both the handy-dandy quarter. No change. Cranks, sometimes catches/runs/dies, other times no go.
I think we are going to start over and re-check everything. fun fun!
Well the drivers side was loose, passenger side was good. Shimmed them both the handy-dandy quarter. No change. Cranks, sometimes catches/runs/dies, other times no go.
I think we are going to start over and re-check everything. fun fun!
Wiggle the different sections of the engine harness if you can get it to idle. Might point you in the right direction if it idles smoother or rougher.
Also check the nut holding the IPR solenoid and see if there is oil in the ICP sensor connector. You can also just unplug the ICP sensor connector to see how it runs.
Jena, get your AE out and run a buzz test when the truck has been sitting a while and you think it will probably start. Clear all the codes then start it up and let it stall and run the buzz test again. See if you hear the same buzz sounds and what codes show back up after the stall.
After it stalls, if you try to re-start it, is there any smoke coming out the tailpipe while cranking?
The truck ran great for over an hour. Drove around the block, uphill, downhill, reverse, etc. finally had to shut it down. restarted just fine. no codes, buzz test fine again. shut it down, put tools away out from under hood, took a break. Now it won't start. P1298, 1294, and 1293. ????? WTF???
If there is no white smoke while cranking then the IDM is not firing the injectors.
Too rule out low batteries make sure there is 10.5 volts while cranking. If not then the IDM wil not fire the injectors. Low cranking volts may have given you the IDM codes.
No white smoke. Went out this morning/afternoon, truck started up and ran great, no codes 3 times in a row. Did some errands around the farm (no truck use), came back to it and it won't start again. Batteries check out good, new alternator, so went and bought new batteries just in case. Still won't start. Just pulled the IDM. All pins looks good, wiring continuity good. This is getting very frustrating!
Since you've got AE, lets watch some live data next time you get a no start. On the live data tab, watch engine RPM, battery voltage, ICP psi, ICP duty %
Also, since it seems to start and run fine, then not, try unplugging the ICP sensor next time you get a no start to see if that helps.
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