I just came back from vacation and went to drive my bronco and it started right up like always. And then died immediately. No sputtering and coughing trying to stay alive, just flat cut off. I started it again just fine, take my foot off the gas and it dies. The check engine light has come on at some point of this evolution. I had somewhere to be so I left it and came out the next day, started it and all was fine. Drove it for awhile, still no problem. Then the check engine light came on and it started wanting to stall when I took my foot off the gas. It runs smooth enough when I'm working the throttle but as soon as I take my foot off to let it idle it dies right away. Any ideas? On another note, I'm noticing my oil pressure is real low. I had this problem a month or two ago, maybe more. I wound up replacing the sending unit and that fixed the problem. While I did that I checked my gauge and found that when shorted to the block it read less than half scale, almost down to a quarter of the way. I'm pretty sure that it's supposed to read around 3/4 off the way to the top but I could be wrong. Think I'm lucky enough to just have the gauge going bad or is there a way to check and see if I actuall do have real low oil pressure. I know I can probably take it to the shop and have them check the actual oil pressure, but I really hate not being able to do the work myself. Anyway, I apologize for the length of this post, but any help or ideas are greatly appreciated. Thanks! --Eric

 

Did you notice that when you gave it the gas the check engine light went off and the oil pressure needle jumped up and when cruising along if you just barely let off of the gas the light would go off and oil pressure neelde would jump up again? My 88 Bronco XLT is doing the same and also wanting to stall at stops too. Let me know if you find the fix and I'll do the same for you.
thanks,
Mike

 

Sounds like a failed or failing PCM (powertrain control module) however, in the interest of saving time and money, since you got a "check engine" light, the computer has found a fault/problem somewhere and is trying to tell you so. Find out what codes the computer is spitting out and this will give you a good start in the right direction. Autozone and a few other major parts suppliers will pull these codes for you free of charge. There is also a way to pull them yourself. A Haynes manual describes the how-to process.

As for the oil pressure, DON'T rely on the Ford factory gauge. It is at best an electronic translation of the real oil pressure. Even if you do it as a temporary thing, install a mechanical gauge to make certiain of the actual oil pressure. Mechanical gauges are more accurate and oil pressure is vital to the life of the engine.

 

Here's how to pull codes with a paperclip.

 

"Using the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL)

No special equipment hookup is required. STI is jumpered to SIG RTN at Self-Test Input (STI) connector and the Data Link Connector (DLC). "

Thanks alot for the help. I really do appreciate it. When you say I can do it with a paperclip is this what you're talking about? If so can you give me an idea where these pins are and where the connector is? Or is it obvious? I have the truck at work so I can't go out and look for it right now. I think tomorrow I'm going to tackle this problem and I just want to have an idea of where to go to minimize my fumbling around time. Thanks again! --Eric

 

The Haynes manual has the diagram of the connectors, but you can also find it at the top of my code list, which was also linked from the test procedure thread.