cant reach gpr E350
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2011
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cant reach gpr E350
Frustration.
2000 E350
Trying to replace GPR and it is quite a bit harder than I was ecpecting.
There is no reaching that thing unless I remove the alternator or the Turbo/exhaust. Also, I was able to stick my fingers in there(barely) and feel the orientation of the GPR and it seems like the posts on top and the srew slots on the bottom are in a different relationship to each other then they are on my new GPR.
Any thoughts Advice appreciated
2000 E350
Trying to replace GPR and it is quite a bit harder than I was ecpecting.
There is no reaching that thing unless I remove the alternator or the Turbo/exhaust. Also, I was able to stick my fingers in there(barely) and feel the orientation of the GPR and it seems like the posts on top and the srew slots on the bottom are in a different relationship to each other then they are on my new GPR.
Any thoughts Advice appreciated
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,771
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From: Louisiana
Can't help on the van but be sure it is a solenoid for the gp'. I wouldn't mention it but you said the orientation was diff. As best I can tell and not sure why but the last two trucks I worked on with gp problems they had aftermarket gpr's and the gp function in the PCM was fried. Have you checked and verified that the old one was bad?
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i have not verified that the old GPR is bad, thats probably a good idea heh
I can probably reach it for that. Im dealing with cold start problems so Im going down the list of things to help.
This thing only has one battery . . . hmmm
Checking GPR
I can probably reach it for that. Im dealing with cold start problems so Im going down the list of things to help.
This thing only has one battery . . . hmmm
Checking GPR
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,771
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From: Louisiana
Are you sure? I thought the vans had another battery in the back somewhere. Not sure though. I know on a 99 e350 gas it had two batteries. One under the hood and one by the sliding rear door. Maybe not the same?
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checked GPR with multi meter on dc in 10v range. positive on the large post with 2 wires on it and negative on the block. I can not get any reading at all when I turn the key. I switched the meter to all settings and nothing. doing something wrong?
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ok second battery is below slider. thanks. I wanna clean up the terminals, do i get at it from below then?
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Freshman User
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I'm gunna try
"if your truck wont start touch both big posts on gpr together with a screwdriver for about 15 seconds. then hop in truck and start. if it works its your gpr thats bad if not you got gp issues. "
in the the morning see what happens
"if your truck wont start touch both big posts on gpr together with a screwdriver for about 15 seconds. then hop in truck and start. if it works its your gpr thats bad if not you got gp issues. "
in the the morning see what happens
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,771
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From: Louisiana
If its cold I'd hold the screw driver at least 100 seconds. Your glo plugs can be on for up to 120 seconds without damage. No telling what the click is. If your van's oil temp is above 120 deg the gp's won't come on. Best to check it cold. If the gor is set up the same as the sd you should always have around 12 volts onthe pass side big post and about 12 volts on the ds when the PCM commands it to be activated.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 903
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From: melbourne beach, fl
IS this a no start concern?The clicking would be the starter relay or possible the gpr.If there's only 10v going to the gpr hot side then perhaps bad connections or battery cables .There are also 2 fusable link (yellow) wires from the ignition side.Without getting in depth this could really get off course.Defintely make sure both batteries are good.The OEM starter requires 1600-2000 amps to crank the motor.
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I put it all back together without removing the gpr. I cleaned up the battery connections it is starting first try now! Course it aint as cold. So we shall see. Thanks for the input
QUOTE=MONAVIERONJON;11247918]IS this a no start concern?The clicking would be the starter relay or possible the gpr.If there's only 10v going to the gpr hot side then perhaps bad connections or battery cables .There are also 2 fusable link (yellow) wires from the ignition side.Without getting in depth this could really get off course.Defintely make sure both batteries are good.The OEM starter requires 1600-2000 amps to crank the motor.[/QUOTE]
QUOTE=MONAVIERONJON;11247918]IS this a no start concern?The clicking would be the starter relay or possible the gpr.If there's only 10v going to the gpr hot side then perhaps bad connections or battery cables .There are also 2 fusable link (yellow) wires from the ignition side.Without getting in depth this could really get off course.Defintely make sure both batteries are good.The OEM starter requires 1600-2000 amps to crank the motor.[/QUOTE]
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 903
Likes: 9
From: melbourne beach, fl
Okay,good to hear,that was an easy one.In the future whenever there is a situation like this it often times can be a wide variety of sources for a non start.The best thing to do if the starter needs replacement is to get a gear drive starter.This design only needs about 600 amps for cranking and are a more reliable design than the OEM one.Its often called a denso or gear drive style.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
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From: Payson, AZ
In almost all cases an aftermarket (non OEM) GPR mounting plate is offset 90°.