Ok so I have this really close to stock '48 F1 (9" rear end is the only thing mechanically). I've been hunting high and low for a transmission (a direct drop - no crossmember chop aka a 60 year old transmission), and while I was in the junkyard I found a S10 with a T-5 looks good, miles are ok (110k), but the vehicle wasn't all worn out everywhere. I only snagged it because it was right in front of me and I didn't want to kick myself next week because I passed on it. I hate regret...

Brought it home shifted through all the gears, looked up the tag, etc etc. Right now I am staring at the crossmember and saying to myself "I don't want to do this, I don't want to do this".

I've no problem modding something that has already been modded up, but mine is so close to stock it's givin me heartache.

Anyone with a HD3, or LD3 etc - anything other than a rock crusher want to make a horse trade?

 

Then don't. Or cut the rivets out and remove it completely for safe keeping (who knows, your grandchild may want to put it back stock someday). Then get an aftermarket crossmember for your T5.

 

Ditto to what Doc just said. Remove the stock crossmember and put it on a shelf. Fab up a replacement and install the late model tranny. That gives you the best of both worlds and is still reversible if you change your mind.

Bobby

 

Brian....come to the dark side!!!

 

Maybe you should come by and see my conversion. Another idea is to swap out the f1 for a f3 crossmember.

 

I'm pretty sure that an F2 crossmember is the same as the F3....that approach will save you a ton of work because you won't have to fabricate a mount for the brake master cylinder.

Dan

 

I'll try to pull you back the other way. The stock crossmember is designed as a major component of the chassis. It serves to keep the frame rails parallel and eliminate rail twist in addition to just holding up the transmission and pedals. Most aftermarket crossmembers only bolt to the top or bottom of the rail and do nothing for holding the rails square. This will eventually result in sheetmetal fatigue or damage to the cab or its mounts. Any mods to that crossmember need to be done in such a way that it continues to contribute to the chassis structurally by keeping the rails square. I've seen pictures of some nicely done T5 installs with properly modified crossmembers, but it's not a small amount of work and not something that's easily done on your back in your driveway. It's really best done with the cab off. Just a couple things to think about!

 

That's not an unreasonable suggestion either, but it also comes with a few complications. Spreading the frame to swap the crossmembers with the cab mounted would be a real bear. Another case where it would be best done with the cab off. On top of that, the F-2 through F-6 trucks used a larger master cylinder bolt pattern, so now you also need to swap in a master cylinder and pedal assembly out of a larger truck. But wait! The larger trucks had a larger bore in the master cylinder, so now your going to have to have it sleeved back to the proper diameter to get the brakes to work right. Now that's fixed, but the larger trucks also used larger brake lines, so now you've got plumbing work to do. Or you could just forget all that an adapt a modern dual circuit master cylinder, but then there's more fab work to do. Where does it end? How far are you really willing to go just to get a different transmission?

 

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It sure seems like I am headed there and I do like cookies.... do you have those ginger bread - the warm soft kind?

One goal that I had for this was to keep it stock looking both from 20' away on the street and when you lift the hood. Transmission is a must given the environment I drive in, just not puttering around in the country. Thankfully the trans is a hidden item - no casual person will ever know given they can still see the 6 cyl under the hood and outwardly all other things say stock.



I think the F2+ crossmember would get me any of the T98 family i.e. the T98, T98A, T18 and T19. As well as make it reasonable to custom fab some trans mounts for a toploader (T170 - SMOD,SROD,TOD). I don't think the F2+ crossmember is enough to get a guy into the T5 world.

I'm writing an article up on how to get some modern manuals into these old girls - done a ton of research on each option.

I'm seriously considering selling the T-5 (hey I just got it cause I stumbled on it - it's perfect for someone else) and getting a T19 - I have no need for 90mph and only a tiny wee little need for 75 mph.

T19 with either 3.50 or 3.73 gears sounds so good.

You said you bought yours from Novak if I remember what I read in your build thread. I discovered there are none in the junkyards - NP435 in the 4x4 and every single 4x2 I found was an auto. T19's are "common" but not finding any on the first few rounds of searching.


Yuppo right on - hear ya loud and clear. I hope to do this with the cab on, in a shop, with all the tools and fun things except no lathe and no mill. I've even read up about shortening the driveshaft and while it is not something I look forward to, it sounds within my skill level. From other's articles I have put together the plan in my mind to take out the stock crossmember entirely, fab up a new one in the same place, and then like someone else here did use just a simple 5/16 strap further back to support the T5's mount.

 

After reading BOR's posts, I'm having buyer's remorse and I didn't even buy anything.

 

Your right I got mine from Novak but it came out of a 1982 Ford F250 diesel, if that helps.

 

I thought the 12v conversion "wasn't too bad" until I was half way in and no choice but to trudge forward... still cleaning up the last detail of that (passenger heater motor). Man this looks like a "wait till spring" project now :P

I think I'd rather fab a trans mount that re-engineer all that comes with the swap now that you say that.... How bad was it for you HD74 - you put a F3 trans mount in a F1 for that T19 right?

 

I think I'd rather fab a trans mount that re-engineer all that comes with the swap now that you say that.... How bad was it for you HD74 - you put a F3 trans mount in a F1 for that T19 right?[/QUOTE]

It was very simple and used the F1 crossmember.


Check out my album under "flathead".

 

I've tried a few times to look at your album - I only see one album, titled "Thread post" with a single side view of your offy style linkage. Am I using the links wrong or is it some hidden trick I've never mastered on FTE?

 

I like the idea of removing the crossmember and installing a good aftermarket one. Mine has a fairly large flange on each end that slides on the round bar. I secured the frame by clamping rails in front and in back of the stock cross top and bottom of the frame (so four temporary rails and 8 clamps) so that the frame wouldn't move and then put in the cross. It had to be cut to fit, then slide the flanges to the frame and drill the bolt holes and bolt them in, then weld the flange to the round bar. After it was done I jacked each far corner or the frame to see if it twisted more than it did when the original cross was in it. There was no difference that I could tell. Of course I did all this when I was down to bare frame. And, why care what somebody else sees or says about your truck? It is yours and you should build it like you want and need. Just my twisted thoughts...