Heres the issue: I was driving the 7.3 today just as I always do, no load or anything special and the engine all the sudden dies. I coated to the side, put in park and restarted it. No problems with restarted so i continue driving a few miles and it dies again. I was able to keep it rolling (car was behind me) put it in Neutral and start on the go. This happened about 10 more times. The engine dies with out warning or sputtering. All my gauges work and are normal until the engine dies. Its got to be an electrical problem from these symptoms, but Im not sure where its originating. Im thinking its the tumbler in the ignition. When i start it sometimes I have to turn the key back to disengage the starter motor. I did a quick check for any bare wires and such. Iv tried to replicated situations where it dies but nothing will do it, just totally random. ANy ideas guys? Thanks for your time

 

Is the connection on the side of the IP, the fuel shut off solenoid good and tight?

 

With the starter issue added in, it sounds like the ignition switch. Not the ignition key cylinder, but the switch that the cylinder operates.

 

I'll be watching this one because I'm having a very similar issue where my truck dies but immediately restarts with just a quick pump of the accelerator pedal. The codes I'm getting (B1203, B1352, B1359 and P0500) seem to indicate that I've got some kind of electrical short issue. Just today, I replaced the UVCH, CPS, ICP and ICP pigtail trying to fix the problem.

 

Fuel shut off solenoid- what exactly does that look like? The only connections im aware of are the cruise control/TPS and the mechanical linkage throttle.

Ignition switch- where exactly is this? is it up in the steering collum or under the hood? Are you saying this is a possible issue since the stater works good when i go for a restart?

 

There are two wires that run off the IP (not the little plastic doo-dad for the auto) They are on the drivers side of the IP. If memory serves, the one in the front is the timing advance solenoid, and the 2nd is the fuel cut-off solenoid. Both red wires with little white female spade connectors.

The ignition tumbler turns the ignition switch. IE the tumbler is the mechanical part, and the electrical part is the ignition switch.

 

Thanks Ill take a look at the wires on the IP and make sure tey look good. How would I know if its the ignition switch? I would be hard to prove its that because I cant replicate the shut offs. Sounds like its best to just throw new parts at it with hopes it works...

 

Just to throw something else out there, how much fuel was in the tanks at the time? There are known problems with the sender breaking off and sucking air at 1/4 tank. If its just starting to crack it might suck enough air to cause a stall.

Try the ignition switch first, and that seems more likely given the starter issues.
There are a few threads that walk through tearing down the steering column to fix the switch.

 

I was saying the ignition switch because in addition to the shutting off issue, you said sometimes you had to turn the key back to dis-engage the starter.
The ignition cylinder turns, pushing on a rod that pushes on the slide of the actual ignition switch. The switch is on the steering column. There will be a large electrical connector with about 20 wires connected to the the switch.

 

I'm guessing that you have a stroke with simular problems if you can read codes, and have replaced all of the above. You will probably get more help in the Powerstroke forum, as about the oly thing the same on these two engines is the 7.3 liter displacement. That said, check the main wiring harness where it drapes over the drivers side valve cover, a known place for it to chaff and cause problems.

 

Funny you mention running low on fuel...I was running the back tank and cut it kind of close with the switch to the front tank. It ended up stalling out but it cranked right over and drove about 10 miles just fine. The first minute it ran rough getting the air out of the system but fine there after. The front tank was topped off when I switched to it. I think Im going to figure out what wires are the ignition and bypass the actual key. Ill put in a secondary switch for the Start-Run positons and use the factory witch for the GP and whatever things runn of the key. I have seen that big connector of wires, has anybody had any first hand experiance pulling the collum apart?

 

汉语/漢語 Hànyǔ; 华语/華語 Huáyǔ; 中文 Zhōngwén

this power stroke language is like trying to read Chinese.

 

Hey Farmert. You're right. I do have a P-Stroke. When I jumped into this thread, I hadn't noticed that it was for pre-Strokers. I've also got my own thread in the Stroker's forum. That being said, I've still found useful info in this group dealing with trouble-shooting skills. Of course, I still don't seem to have any.

I did also check the main harness where it crosses the valve cover. No signs of anything untoward. The harness cover still seems in great shape and nothing looks "polished" on the valve cover or anywhere else.

To FordF250HDXLT - It seems like Chinese to me most days. I spend a fair amount of time cross referencing everyone else's abbreviations to figure out what they're saying.

 

To get the ignition switch you have to remove the plastic shroud around the column where it meets the dash. Then you will see the switch on the underside of the column. It is held in place by to small bolts. The rod runs along the column and has a small hook on the end that fits into a plastic "slide" on the switch. Just unhook the harness and replace. Only takes a few minutes.

 

Sounds like its pretty easy to do. I was thinking that the steering wheel had to be taken off and access from the top. Any idea where to get a new switch and the price? Ill check but wasnt sure if yall know any good places