So, I got the fuel sending unit out today, and was able to look down in the tank, alot of thick varnish on the walls...fuel line in the tank is covered in rust. I was hoping to get away with a simple flush, but it looks like that thing has to come out.
It's a polypropylene tank.
I just read something the other day that suggested using "The Works" toilet cleaner for rust. Apparently, the caustic properties of that cleaner make quick work of rust. Anyone ever used that on a plastic gas tank? I'd be more hesitant to try it if the tank was metal, but I've got to do something, the gas came out looking like coca-cola black. (gas is a month old...it ran enough for me to drive it around the block a few times)

Here's the best pics I could get:


See that fuel line?


Suggestions are welcome! (we mistakenly welded the MC bracket to the frame close enough to the forward tank strap bolts to make getting those off a real PITA. I'm not looking forward to that project, but I'm quickly running out of choices.)

Next issue....Had nice fella over today to buy a piece off my spare 223, he's got a model A, 32 pickup, and couple others....we were talking and I mentioned mine is converted to 12v, with a positive ground. He looked at me like I had two heads. Said he'd never heard or seen a 12v positive ground system, and asked if the battery would charge. (it does)
I don't know enough about it to realize this is wrong...I just dismissed it as "backwards" and didn't give it a second thought.

What should I do about this positive ground stuff?
My wiring is about 50% complete, since my dad did only enough to get it started/running.
Here's the pic of the battery, and postive cable grounded to the frame. (He had to see it to believe it.)



Thanks!

 

I've never seen a plastic tank with that kind of goo inside. I'd check with somebody like Tanks, Inc, and ask for a cleaning recommendation. They make plastic tanks and would be the best resource I can think of for a question like that.

On your ground issue, I'd change it all over to neg. ground. You won't find any accessories, like a tach or a radio, or any other 12V electrical component, that's going to be compatible with pos. ground.

 

I'll check around on the specifics of cleaning the poly tank...

As far as the ground goes...disconnect everything (+ & -), swap the wires on the battery (to move the ground to the correct negative terminal), and then reconnect everything 1 item at a time, with the power wire going to the positiver terminal?

The oil pressure and volt gauges are currently hooked up, and work...

It seems simple to convert....that's why I'm nervous.

 

What year is your truck? Have you measured to output from the battery and/or are you sure it's 12 volts?

 

Jolly,
It's a 54.
I'm sure it's 12 volts, the battery is brand new (3 months ago), and gauge reads at 13v when I was driving it around the block. (new Omega gauge from Speedway).

Maybe the PO did a half-*** conversion to 12v and because I'm as smart as a bag of hammers I followed him down the wrong path?

 

Sorry, you're immediately out of my league with such a new truck. I was asking because you mentioned your voltage was reading correctly, and in a 6 volt system with stock ammeter, that only happens when it's connected correctly (positive ground).

With a modern gauge, you may be able to connect it with either polarity and make it work correctly. I really don't know. So I'll just go away now. Back to my corner...

ps: I highly recommend the wiring diagrams from ClassicCarWiring.com
Full Color Laminated Wiring Diagrams for Classic FORD Trucks

 

"Sorry, you're immediately out of my league with such a new truck. "

I got a good laugh out of that. Thanks

/Those damn kids today and all their new technology nonsense.