I own a 1992 Explorer 4dr XLT and until recently my fuel gauge read accurately (or at least it moved). I filled my tank two days ago to about half and it read that way on the gauge. But then yesterday morning I started the truck and the gauge read empty. I then turned the car off and restarted it just to see what would happen and sure enough it remained on empty. So then I proceeded to wonder if someone may have messed with my car in the night and I went and put another "half tank" of gas in. But then, of course, it remained on empty and was still stuck that way this morning. Also when I turn it off, the gauge goes to about 1/4 of a tank reading. I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT TO DO. I have searched everywhere for help on this exact issue (and I know two friends with same or 1 year difference Explorers with the same problem). I need help. If you know how I can fix this without taking it to a mechanic , I would greatly appreciate your help. I have read some other forums about wiring problems, but they don't deal with Explorers. So please help me. Thanks.

 

There are tons of posts in here in the past on this subject. Most probable cause is a bad float in the tank gauge assembly. It is a $5.00 part from Ford, but you have to drop the tank to replace it.
R&R requires you to remove the metal protective shield and tank straps, then drop the tank to access the pump/sender assembly from the top of tank. If you are handy with tools, you can do this yourself. Special tool is required to remove the fuel hose connections at the pump, and they can be a pain in the rear to get loose sometimes. I was able to raise the vehicle up on jack stands, remove the left rear tire, and drop the tank down on driveway enough to allow pump removal from tank while tank was still under vehicle, and able to replace without removing lines from pump. Took some work, but is possible. Most difficult part was removing shield bolts that had rusted in somewhat but if you soak all with penetrant first should be easier. Run the tank as close to empty first to reduce weight also. Removing the drive shaft also gives more room to work.
Dialtone

 

Thanks for the help. I think though, rather than lowering the tank or removing the intrument panel, I'm gonna first test the ohms on the tank sender. And for fixing, I am probably going to take it to be fixed by a pro. I was wondering though. About 5 weeks ago, I noticed that someone had stolen my fuel gas cap. I bought a new one today. Would not having this for that long possibly effected my gauge reading?Thanks again for the quick response. I haven't had time to sit and respond until tonight. Thanks.

 

The sender is 15 ohms empty and 170 ohms full. This is reverse of many older senders where the coiled resistance wire would break and you would go from 3/4 to E. Yellow/white and black/yellow are the sender wires. Unless the somehow the wire has a dead short it is the float.

 

Well, I have heard of many Explorer owners having the same problem. I bought my Explorer with the same problem you have. I have a 92 XLT and my gas gauge doesn't work. It goes to empty when I start the vehicle and when I turn it off it moves to about a quarter of a tank. I work at a garage, and all four of our mechanics believe that the float is to blame. One mechanic told me I would have to replace the whole fuel pump/sending unit because Ford doesn't just sell the float. I don't think this is correct, but I would like for someone to verify this. I guess how much fuel is in the tank by resetting my trip mileage every time I fill up. I usually fill up at about 250 miles, depending on what kind of driving I have been doing. Highway miles I can go a little longer. Good luck. I would love to hear the outcome of your problem. Then maybe I will be convinced to fix mine.

 

I have been sculking around this site for the past few days looking for a clue on my CEL problem, and althought this thread may be months old and forgotten, it peaked my interest enough to go ahead and register with FTE.

My 91/4.0/4dr/2wd/AC baby has 132k on her. I bought her 6 years ago with 87k. Sure, she has her oddities, like the radio not working unless the cabin temp was 120 degrees F. But this one really takes me to the twilight zone:

My gas gage only works in the Summer months. During Fall and Winter, it's down close to "E." When Spring comes, it begins to operate ever so slowly. By HOT Summer (Texas) it's operating A-O.K. Been that way for 2 years now.

I'm wondering if there is any truth to what a mechanic once told me that Summer gas is different than Winter gas. Higher octane????? Or, perhaps, a wet Winter short in the wiring???

Anyway, I'm leaning on looking at that unknown regulator behind the I-panel. What do you think??

 

Well i work in a Refinery and the gas is the same in the winter as it is in the summer the only changes are possible additives. We are govermentally regulated to keep them pretty much the same although bad batches sometimes make thier way out. But as is with the Octane ratings those are minimums not actual either.

 

mt4:

1: Thank you for your speedy reply. Thanks dude!

2: I take it that you are in the field and know your business.

3: But who knows what happens to that precious petroleum once it leaves your refinery? There are other refineries. I take a lot of stock in my ground floor mechanic's words (30 years in the business). But I am not close-minded. He has told me horror stories about distributors watering down gas or adjusting the meter readings to indicate your levels pumped in, etc. These things effect the average day-to-day CONSUMER.

4. I do not doubt your Fed Reg's. All that I know is that I see a difference in my Ford Explorer's ability to measure fuel. And that more consumers use fuel in the Summer months. Of course, it may just be a Winter short in my system.

5: OMITTED

6: Perhaps, I should try a higher octane in the Winter months.

 

the gas cap you bought was it vented

 

Where is the easiest place to get to the sending unit's wires for testing. I would like to test my units before pulling the tank or instrument pannel. Are the sender's wires standard in colors (Yellow/white and black/yellow) in all year year models? I have a 93 explorer. Before pulling or having the tank or instrument panel pulled, I am trying to notice the action of all the gauges (oil, temp, amp) around the bad fuel gage reading. Would a voltage regulation problem at the instrument panel affect other gauges??

Is pulling the instrument pannel time consuming and frustrating for an average mechanic??

Thanks,
Joe

 

Well Xplorerbilly I asked the mechanics at the garage I work at about your problem. I have the exact problem. My gas gauge wasn't working at all untill the summer hit in Austin, Texas. Then for some reason it started working again. Then when summer was over it started working every once and awhile. Then winter came and it didn't work again. The mechanics told me that it was because I have a hole in my float and that all the gas trapped inside evaporates quickly in the summer making it able to float again. But with cooler temperatures the float fills up with gas and doesn't evaporate, causing it to sink, making the guage read empty. Also, our garage is a full service gas station. The gas is the same in the summer and in the winter. We have never got a truckload of gas that was watered down or anything like that. And even if we did, our tanks have fuel/water separators that seperate the fuel from the water. The government performs strict tests every year on our tanks. There is no way anyone can get away with intentionally adding water to the gas. The tanks perform self tests every morning and alert us to any problems. This test tells us how much water was filtered out of the gas. We have only had one tank ever have water in it. Less than a gallon of rain water collected in the filling hole when the truck driver didn't put the cap on right. The self-test alerted us and the water was separated from the fuel. I also look at the additives put in our gasoline, and they are the same year round. Hope I answered some questions. -Kev-