And it continues. Now I have fixed the hard starting and the bog from idle, thanks to you guys but now it is slow to return to idle and when it gets down around 1000 it almost never goes all the way down to the 850. The last part of that might be that the return spring is warn and at the bottom end does not pull it far enough to get it all the way back, I will try fixing that but even with me pulling the linkage back to the start position it slowly returns to idle. As a reminder this is a 292 with a 2 barrel Holley 2300 on a f100 that has a electric mallory dizzy. Initial advance is 10 and the vacuum is working great. Where do I begin?
Thanks in advance
Cbass

 

If its not the linkage holding the throttle up then it could be a couple of different things. sometimes its a combination of several things. Make sure your timing is set correctly, check the point gap and make sure its correct.
A vacuum leak will cause a high idle. You might try to disconnect and plug all the vacuum lines and see what happens.

If no vacuum leak then you can start looking at carb adjustments. Look at the idle set screw and see if where its at. Does it look likes it cranked way in? or is about normal looking? Its possible that the idle mixture screws are way out of whack.
Sometimes its a real pain to balance the adjustments between the idle mixture and the idle set screw to get the truck running where it should

Bobby

 

Thanks bobby, I dont have points any more (electronic mallory dizzy) but I will try the leak test and double check the vacuum line. I did try a bunch of settings on the idle screw and mixture screw to no real change but I will double check that again.

 

Cool,

It might be necessary to start over from square one. What happens when you run the idle mixture screws all the way in? the truck should die. If it doesn't then either the idle set screw is too high or there could be a vacuum leak.

You could run the idle mixture screws all the way in and then back them out approx 1 1/2 to 2 turns and start from there. Start the truck and see if it will idle, tweak the idle set screw some trying to keep the idle approx 700 to 1000 rpm. Then start runing the idle mixture screws in 1/4 to 1/2 turn at a time, go back and foth between the teach side. Again, you might have to adjust the idle set screw while doing this. Run the idle mixture screws in until the engine starts runnign rough and then back them back out a bit until it smooths out.

If you have a vacuum gauge, hook it up to manifold vacuum, adjust the idle mixture screws to maximize the vacuum.

Be patient, go back and forth between the idle mixture and the idle set until you get it dialed in

Bobby

 

Bobby's right (God I hate to say that.... ) but I'll also add a few worthless comments.

You should be able to kill the engine if you back off the idle screw enough. If you can't, you may have a mechanical problem. If you need to physically grab your linkage and yank on it to reduce your RPM that's a problem. Possibility #1

Idle/Air adjustment and Vacuum leak as my good buddy Bobby said is also a factor but Idle/Air Adustment is a fine-tune, A massive vacuum leak will cause high idle and is not something you can adjust for. Possibility #2

Any seal-point going into the intake manifold should be examined.

Good Luck

Dawg-A-Roo

 

Wow!!

I just did a screen capture so I can right click and save....WOOOHOOOO!!

I got something right, I got something right, I got something right (picture fat guy doing a happy dance) I got something right...

LOL....the key is to be patient and try and not get frustrated, a frosty beverage might come in handy at several points in the process.

Good to hear from you Dawg!
Bobby

 

sounds good, would love to say that I did all that (I did) and that is good enough but I found out with the previous problem that in doing so I may have over looked something or just not tried the right combo but I have written everything down and hope it will make me a bit better at keeping track of what I have and have not done, twice.
Thanks
Cbass

 

Some 2300's have a dashpot; does yours? They are adjustable, which directly affects how quickly it will return to idle, and if too tightly adjusted, I believe it can even hold the throttle open.

 

No dashpot but thanks for the try, keep them coming.
Cbass

 

It sure sounds like a vacuum leak.

 

Mis-aligned or damaged Butterfly ?

 

Vacuum check is one of the first things I am going to check, that and to make sure that the accelerator pump linkage that I was messing with is set up right.
Is there a easy way or what is the way to check the butterfly for alignment and damage?

Cbass

 

Without pulling the carb off the intake about all you can do is shine a light down the carb throat and take a look.
The butterfles should be at a slight angle with nice clean edges all around.
If you see a big air gap between the butterflies and the carb throat then you definately have the idle set screw adjusted too high.

Vacuum leaks can sometimes be a pain to track down. Start with the obvious, look at vacuum lines, are they old, cracked, dehydrated? They are cheap, replace them. Does your truck have power brakes? sometimes the diaphragm in the brake booster will develop a leak.
Unplug and cap off all of the vacuum lines. If you still cant get the truck idling right then its time to start looking at gaskets; carb, intake, etc. You can diagnose those by spraying some carb clean around the gaskets and see if the idle changes significantly.

I once bought a 73 Olds from a kid for $75 bucks cause he couldn't get it to run right. After I paid him I popped the hood and looked at the carb. The poor kid had bolted the carb back on the engine with the bracket for the accelerator cable between the carb and the intake manifold...LOL. He had created a huge vacuum leak. I loosed the front bolts on the carb, pulled the rear bolts, moved the bracket from under the carb to on top of the carb and bolted it all back together. Started it up, quick adjustement and drove it away.

Bobby

 

We should start a new thread about this kind of experience -- I've got a couple, I'm sure lots of folks do!

Cbass, am I also correct that 2300's have a power valve just like the old 94's?

 

Go for it Ross..... I have a few of my own