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Massive front end vibration/shuttering

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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 07:11 PM
  #16  
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Fuel pressure regulator is a good one to replace, along with all the Trans senors (MLPS, VSS)
 
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Old Dec 29, 2011 | 12:06 PM
  #17  
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Ball joints can add to this problem. I just went through most of the front end on my 170,000 mile Bronco. Bushing in control arms were also shot.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 01:30 AM
  #18  
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Just ordered a bunch of parts. Some of them are irrelevant to the subject buy hey im the OP right!
Tie rod ends and ball joints
Drums, shoes and all drum hardware
Wheel cylinders
Rotors and pads
Brake lines
Wheel bearings and seals
Headlight
Misc. hardware

VARKWSO where I can find control arm bushings? Anyone else know know? 93 Bronco 5.0
 
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 11:01 AM
  #19  
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Buy Moog Axle Pivot Bushing K8620 at Advance Auto Parts

Unless you are talking about the radius arm bushings, then this:

Buy Moog Radius Arm Bushing K80007 at Advance Auto Parts

You can find them cheaper, but these are parts you only wanna change once. Moog is the best IMHO.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 07:15 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Edgethis
Are you sure its not in 4wd? Sounds like maybe the u-joints in the axle are binding up.
Honestly I hate to say it but i don't know really much about my 4wd, I know the hubs are in the unlock position and the 4wd shifter is in what i assume to be neutral but with the body lift i don't know if the shifter is adjusted properly. Also I noticed while i was getting on the freeway this morning that when i hit about 35 I think or 40 the shimmying gets really bad until i get out of that slop zone. Also i think i need an alignment, my truck leads to the right pretty bad.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 08:27 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Edgethis
Buy Moog Axle Pivot Bushing K8620 at Advance Auto Parts

Unless you are talking about the radius arm bushings, then this:

Buy Moog Radius Arm Bushing K80007 at Advance Auto Parts

You can find them cheaper, but these are parts you only wanna change once. Moog is the best IMHO.
Disagree.....energy suspension poly is the way to go
Energy Suspension Parts Dealer, Specializing in Energy Suspension Bushings Suspension Components.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 01:10 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Edgethis
Buy Moog Axle Pivot Bushing K8620 at Advance Auto Parts

Unless you are talking about the radius arm bushings, then this:

Buy Moog Radius Arm Bushing K80007 at Advance Auto Parts

You can find them cheaper, but these are parts you only wanna change once. Moog is the best IMHO.
Thanks ya I realized after posting that I needed to be looking for I-beam or axle pivot bushings. I placed the order in a hury trying to leave work. The suspension parts I ordered were Moog and I know I can trust them. Any tips on doing the ball joints?

As far as the Energy suspension parts, im sure they are great but I dont want the noise associated with urethane.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 09:10 AM
  #23  
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Balljoints are a full weekend project if you haven't ever done them IMHO. You have to remove the entire knuckle and axle-shaft from each side.

Here's a link to where I removed one of my knuckles, it has some pics so you get an idea.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...a-build-4.html
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 05:51 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Edgethis
Balljoints are a full weekend project if you haven't ever done them IMHO. You have to remove the entire knuckle and axle-shaft from each side.

Here's a link to where I removed one of my knuckles, it has some pics so you get an idea.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...a-build-4.html
I think that was kind of an empty question steming from the slight anxietly that I have dissasembling the hubs. I actually did the ball joints in my Mustang but with the Bronco its the getting to the ball joints part. Ive just never touched anything 4wd. I also couldnt find any of the misc. o-rings, lock rings etc. without buying an entire hub. Im also not sure of whatr all is in there. Im afraid of breaking something and having the job take forever waiting for a .1 oz part. We all know what thats like. I have new bearings races and seals but I know there are some other random things in there.

If I didn't have to get this done immediately I would be excited to do something new but thats not the case. Should still be fun though. Anyway parts should be here by tueday, I may be posting on here if I hit a road block.

Keep an eye out for a new thread since this one has gone way off subject(sorry about that).
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 09:42 AM
  #25  
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Quick Help

My bad for double posting but what are the special tools that I will need for removing wheel hub, spindle, knuckle basically everything to get to the ball joints plus replacing hub and spindle bearings. Actual names and part numbers would be awesome. I have a fork set and ball joint press/remover. As far as I know I just need the one tool for the hub.

I know I can find the info but im about to leave work and have limmited internet access at home, plus being pressed for time. Thanks a 1/2 ton .
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 09:56 AM
  #26  
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Jus tthe one tool for the hub. May be able to even borrow this from the parts store.
Lots of WD40/penetrating oil ( i like crystal creep by seafoam)
A BFH and a chunk of 2x4.
Basic ratchet and sockets.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 08:27 PM
  #27  
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I once had an issue like this in another truck. I replaced EVERYTHING to no avail, from going through the front end to the driveshaft to rebuilding the rear end. New brakes, new rotors and drums, new tires - I just couldn't get rid of that shimmy. I ended up getting rid of it that way after pouring money into one thing after another. I think that the problem was somewhere in the transmission and/or torque converter. I hope that's not the case with yours. If you are positive that the shimmy is coming from the front end, and is not felt at all in the seat but only in the steering wheel then it's probably a front end issue. If you feel it in the seat then it's probably a driveline issue. You cannot check for joint binding of the driveshaft without removing it, so I suggest that you take off the driveshaft (be sure to mark the holes so you can put it back the same way, or you could try putting it 180 degrees in the other way to see if that helps, but still mark the holes) and rotate the CV joint in all diections to see if it is binding. This cannot be done on the truck. It might feel nice and tight if you just go under the truck and to see if the joint moves, and it might; but more common is the CV joint binding and the only way to find that is to remove the driveshaft and rotate the CV joint in all directions and see if it's binding.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 02:01 PM
  #28  
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Thanks for the the tips and sorry to hear about your truck. I actually have suspected that its in the driveline and it causes the whole truck to shake. I don't feel in in the steering the way you would usually feel a steering or front suspension problem. From inside the truck I feel it most on the floor above the trans. All the parts im replacing are actually coming from necessity to pass safety inspection. After im done with that I figured it would help others help me diagnose the issue by eliminating those things as an issue. On some other forums I read about similar issues that ended up being the cv joints. After im done with installing my new parts I will do what you recommended. Thanks again I really think your right about this.

Also I didn't pay much for the Bronco and Im only just now approaching what its actually worth after spending about 1300 including tires. Well I guess that depends on the trans/ transfer case...
 
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 06:01 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by BoomTown96
Thanks ya I realized after posting that I needed to be looking for I-beam or axle pivot bushings. I placed the order in a hury trying to leave work. The suspension parts I ordered were Moog and I know I can trust them. Any tips on doing the ball joints?

As far as the Energy suspension parts, im sure they are great but I dont want the noise associated with urethane.
There is no noise.....and believe me I get them plenty wet and plenty dirty.........and put them through the full range of motion !
 
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 10:05 PM
  #30  
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From: Algona, Washington
Well I decided to do some work on my 78 and it turned out to not fix really anything i ment to fix. This is what i got,


And my old one,


Old next to new,


Some of the bushings are a bit worn, top one is new,


And the finished product. Did you guys know that stickers not only add 5 horsepower but they also add 2 more inches to your turning radius
 
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