Does anyone have torque to turn spec (torque required to spin the engine over) on the FE's? Rebuilding a 352 bone stock and I am getting 43ft lbs torque to turn on the short block, and wanting to verify this is correct. It is a tad bit higher that what I am used to seeing on engines in this cubic inch range, but nothing that screams bad. Most all engines have publicized numbers for this measurement (typically 5ft lbs per hole on v8's), but can't find it for the fe's in my book. Any help is appreciated.

 

seems that you'r fretting over 3 ft. lbs. I wouldn't worry about it myself.

 

That is about standard that I have seen. That does not mean the FE's are "standard". I am asking if anyone has the specification for this engine. I mistyped and it is actually 46 ft lbs, irregardless.

This engine was brought to me to fix due to it being very hard to turn over (about 120 ft lbs) after a fresh rebuild. I tore the engine back down and found it was mis-bored from the machine shop (final hone was not done). After having the engine honed to the proper size and verifying all measurements, I would sleep a bit better knowing the new torque to turn measurement is within factory spec. If no one has the measurement (and for an FE, it is likely they never posted one due to the era the engine was designed), I will continue on the build with no sweat. With whatever you do in life, do it right. Reputation is everything; half-assing gets you nowhere.

Being good is good business
Anita Roddick 1942-, British founder of The Body Shop

 

I can't help you with the official number, but I applaud your work ethic and effort! It is very hard to find that kind of reputable mechanic in my area.

FWIW, I've never put a tq wrench on it, but 45lbs feels about right to me.

 

My 9-5 job is building engines, specifically diesels, small .5L briggs size to 19L+. The job is great because, unlike most mechanic work, they are not concerned how long it takes (within reason). All that matters is quality. These engines are typically built to customer specifications, and it isn't that uncommon to have a customer watch most of the assembly and rebuild process. We can do most all machining in house, which is nice too.

My side business is a different story. Honestly there is little money in doing a good job until you have a well-known reputation that allows you to properly charge for your work. Mechanics get their poor reputation for a reason. I make around half the income of those that half-***...time is money. It is nearly impossible to get business from the average consumer...they go by brand name recognition. That said, my customer base is all auto enthusiasts and I do no advertising, all word of mouth. My plan is to go full time in two years. I should have enough work to support it.

I have built around 600 engines total. Any leaks, forgotten parts, something broken? Sure. If you haven't screwed anything up, you haven't done anything. Never completely lost an engine to date though; nothing that couldn't be fixed. That I am quite happy about. I posted this thread knowing someone is going to say a paraphrased version of "that doesn't matter". Whether it is a stock 352, 427 cammer, or a 5hp briggs, everything gets the same attention and dedication. That is what separates a mechanic/technician from a glorified parts changer.

/rant

 

if it seems hard to turn over also check rod caps are installed the correct direction , if reversed they will bind . learned this on a 289

 

If they are reversed, it will blow a rod out the side. Most do not realize just how crucial rod and main cap direction is. Crucial may even be an understatement. I have seen a rod cap on backwards blow the block clean in half. Unbolted the cylinder heads and the block fell apart in two pieces. Very nasty stuff.

I don't think it is necessarily difficult to turn over. Torque to turn is like a final check measurement. Measure the crank journal, bearings, main bore, etc and calculate your bearing clearance. Plastigauge it as a final check on your calculations. It is the same thing. A quick 5 second test that justifies your work. It is common to measure torque to turn after each individual component is installed when building high dollar race engines. If one cyl gains 6 ft lbs while the rest gain 5 ft lbs, something is slightly out of whack, and that could make a big difference in that application.

 

thanks for the info , next motor i put together i will remember this !

 

While what I am about to say is coming from a complete amateur, some things to think about:

"Torque-to-turn" has a lot to do with cylinder finish, ring tension, ring material, cam profile, valve spring strength, you name it.

There is no one set "it's this much to turn this engine over". With the FE, and all it's different bore sizes and strokes (which can make that value go all over the place), and given the amount of time since it was first engineered to now, I don't think ANY one will ever find a manual that says "it should be X ft/lbs", and if you used that valve as a set-in-stone thing, it would be ... foolhardy?

I am quite surprised that anyone is actually asking this question, because as the engine is assembled, you check each thing that adds drag.

When you installed the crank, did it spin freely, or at least, as freely as a new-cut crank and bearings should?

Each piston, as it was installed, did it go down into the bore somewhat easily, AND when you rotated the engine to install the next piston/rod, did the assembly spin nicely?

And then, on top of all that, did you notice any sudden increase installing the cam and timing chain, and then the upper valve-train?

Whenever someone puts an engine together, you check all of these things as you go, and then if there is a sudden increase in effort, you have something wrong. If everything goes smoothly, the end result can be all over the place, again, based on all the things I first listed.

Question: When you said 5ft/lbs per hole on V8's, which ones? Chevy? Short stroke big bore, or long stroke small bore? Diesels? what?

 

OP is talking about a short block ( no heads) so only turning over crank,pistons,timing chain,cam&lifters at most .

 

I have noticed that FEs seem to be fairly hard to turn over when new. My 360 was about 50ft-lbs, and I tore it all back apart, checked everything, it was all on the tight side of the specs, caps were correct, etc. It was still a bit tight when I pulled it and shipped it a couple weeks ago. About 40-45 ft/lbs.

 

When I did my 428cj it took two batteries on initial start up. That was in 1999. It's still running great and uses no oil. I was really sweating it at start up time but all worked out well.

 

With just the mains on my 390 it took 10 lbs to break it free When I added the pistons it took 75 lbs. Friend who is an expert said 75 is fine.

My plastigage was at .001-.002 which is a little tighter than recommended, otherwise it might be down in the 45 range like yours, though the tightness could have been caused by the new bore and new cast rings.

puttster

 

I had a FE that turned over very hard. Tore it down and several of the rods were turned around with the offset in the wrong direction.

 

Don't forget about the drag of the main seals -- not so much the rubber type , but if it has the old style rope type it will add to the rotating torque till it breaks in.


Just Some Thoughts ----- Hotwrench