When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I suspect that you may be hunting for some lost miles per gallon, or perhaps have noticed sluggish performance from your 7.3 Powerstroke. I am going to walk you through locating and cleaning the FPR Screen.
The FPR is designed to maintain the fuel pressure in the cylinder heads at 40 psi. In addition ensuring that the return restrictor doesn't get clogged with grit. It is my understanding that the oring failing and clogging the screen is a myth and rather is gunk from the tank. O-rings are responsible for clogging your spool valve in your FPR, however.
Step 1:
Step 2:
Between step 2 and 3 it is essential that you have a telescoping magnet handy to catch the screen if it falls into the valley (area below the bowl). Mine fell in during install and removal and I retrieved it both times.
Step 3:
Once you have access to the screen you will find this (most likely)
which is the fpr screen covered in a layer of debris.
I have found write ups that suggest using a qtip to clean it, but based upon how tightly packed the gunk was it would be ineffective. When you have the screen out soak it in some break cleaner for roughly 5 minutes. I then scrapped off what I could and then shot it clean with brake cleaner.
Reinstall is simply reverse of removal. I found it helpful on the reinstall to have a screwdriver in my right hand to pry the fpr away from the bowl, use a pair of needle nose to stick the screen in the housing, and then have a screw driver in my left to push it in a bit more.
For the o ring I found it helpful to again pry the fpr away from the fuel bowl and then stick it over the end of a screw driver. I used my finger to block the oring until I got it on the housing it rests on, and then slid it forward. Pushed the housing back into its location and ensured that the oring doesn't get pinched.
As always I declare no responsibility or liability in you breaking something while following my guide.
Information and pictures have been compiled from internet searches and my own personal knowledge.
Replace part numbers Ford part number 2C3Z-9157-AA seal kit. IH 1825748C92
For some MPG data. The first time I got the truck it was empty on fuel. I was chasing down vss issues so my speedo was wrong. My speedo appears to be about 1-2 mph slow based upon gps verification, but that would only increase mpg numbers not decrease.
My first fill up after fixing the vss, prior to cleaning fpr was 12.1. This was all freeway and driving like grandmother. Second one was clean fpr with hubs locked and I got 13.48. Clean fpr, no hubs netted me 15.1 in general driving. This last one mostly freeway but tons of idling time had me at 15.4 mpg with every ounce of fuel I could cram in that truck.
All these numbers were after a brand new oil filter, oil, fuel filter, seafoam, and lastly a one time treatment with diesel kleen.
Hi! I used soaked mine in Simple Green - worked Great.
Before
After
It does take the 'shine' off the metal, but cleans all the way through. These were with 175k. First time it had been done. BP & Exxon Diesel used 95% of mileage.
Hi! I used soaked mine in Simple Green - worked Great.
Before
After
It does take the 'shine' off the metal, but cleans all the way through. These were with 175k. First time it had been done. BP & Exxon Diesel used 95% of mileage.
Where is this located? The only thing I saw in mine yesterday was a little screen like the first pic.
The long cylinder type filter is located behind the brass cap that it is sitting on in the first picture. That cap is held in by the C-clip also shown in the picture. The metal fuel line that comes up from the bottom of the fuel bowl connects through the hole in the brass cap. Have to replace the o-ring in the cap that seals the metal fue lline. Here is a good 'How To' on rebuilding the fuel bowl - see page 5 - http://dieselorings.com/docs/OBSFuelBowlRebuild.pdf
I'm getting 15.5 mpg all day long with a crew, weighing close to 9k I'd reckon.
MPG tips, use 3.55 gears, 5spd. Do a good air filter (search 6637 mod) an added benefit is preventing your turbo from getting dusted. K&N are not good for diesels, nor is the stock air cleaner. you also get more turbo whine with this.
Keep your tires reasonable, don't go over 285s unless you have 4.10s then 35s are perfect.
Get a straight exhaust, with a 3 inch downpipe turbo back, to a 4 or 5 inch pipe.
The stock downpipe is a joke.
Keep it at 2k rpm, my truck sings right along at 65 but if I get after it and do 70-75 like most traffic I can tell my truck is working harder and thus my mpgs go down.
Outside of that and ensuring your oil, oil filter, and fuel filter are clean there isn't much to do.
Bump and added to sig.
Outside of that and ensuring your oil, oil filter, and fuel filter are clean there isn't much to do.
Other easy things to do is make sure your wheel bearings and U-joints are in good condition. Make sure your alignment is good. Make sure your brakes are adjusted properly. You're basically looking for anything that could be causing friction. Energy lost as heat due to friction is energy that could have been used to move your truck.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.