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Hey thanx for the help. So what do you think of this setup?? Is it any good? Also, I've never heard of that tranny, only ones I recognize are the AOD and E40D. I don't know much about gearing, but what do you guys think about it?? Thanx for all the help.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 25-Oct-02 AT 02:35 PM (EST)]>Well a 3.08 means you are going no place fast.
>
>A 4R70W is a pretty stout trans with a 2.84:1 first gear. I
>like it.
I've always thought my truck was fairly quick, but I guess by your comment, it's not. I know when I start off the truck feels like it has no power, but above 25mph it starts to go. I can't even spin the tires, unless on gravel (occasionally I can get one to spin but only for a second). What gears would be better, and how much does that kind of thing cost??
About the 4R70W...how come I've never heard of it?? It's not and AOD or E4OD is it?? Also, how much power can it handle, because I'm thinking of doing an engine swap. Thanx for the help.
A guy at work said I should put in 3.55 gearing. Any opinions on this?? It would be nice to be able to smoke the tires every once and awhile....at least it should seem like I have some power.
Also...about the tranny could it handle 340hp?? I ask because another member of this forum has turned me onto the idea of swapping my engine for a 5.0 roller motor, so I need to know if the tranny can handle the extra power. Thanx for all the help guys. Oh and how much does a gear swap cost??
4R70W is the current designation for the upgraded AOD/E which was the electronically controlled version of the AOD. The AOD/E was much stronger than the AOD because of the improved 1 piece input shaft and various other small but significant improvements, the 4R70W added a wide ratio gearset to the AOD/E along with a few other improvements.
The 4R70W is nowhere near as strong as the E4OD which has been upgraded and redesignated 4R100. The designations mean:
4 = number of gears
R = rear wheel drive application
70 = 700 ft-lbs of torque max.at the input shaft (approx 350 ft-lbs at the flex-plate due to the typical 2:1 torque multiplication of the torque converter
W = wide ratio gearset
The 4R100 is similarly rated for 1000 ft-lbs. max or approx. 500 at the flex-plate.
For a lot more info see http://www.baumannengineering.com
I'd go to a 3.73. Or you can be silly like me and do a 4.30:1! Coming in 3 weeks I can't wait. Gear swaps are about $200-250 around here. You'll see a huge difference in performance off a red light. Oh stick with a big brand Gear company, I've heard Richmond is noisy. FMS is great.
Depending on mileage, you'll probably kill the trans in stock form. Get a big cooler on there, and if you rebuid it get Raybestos/Kolene guts. The direct drive (3rd) can take an extra clutch for more strength. Good knowledgeable trans shops do this stuff regualrly. Also there is a hardened intermediate sprag you will want also. I'd put in a TransGo shift kit in too. Your converter should stall about 2200rpms for decent performance. If you are building a 12sec truck, then get a higher stall one...
Oh, you have an open differantial also. Look on ebay or locally for a used 31 spline Trac-Lok and REBUILD IT. It sucks hind-tit in stock form. www.ring-pinion.com sells the rebuild kits for $60! I am putting a rebuilt one in my F-150 soon that has 8 clutches instead of the factory 6. Older trucks like my '88 have 28 spline axles while the newer ones like yours have 31 splines. I am not sure when Ford changed up tho'.
I have a 95 Bronco, 5.8 L , E4OD with a B&M electronic #####k kit, 3.55 posi front and rear with BFG 33 / 12.5 on all 4 corners pulling low 13's in 2WD and high 13's in 4WD. With a K&N filter and the rest is bone stock at 140K miles. It will do it at any time. I'm sitll getting 15 to 18 miles to the gallon. I don't know if it makes a difference that it's a California truck. It has no problem smoking the tires. I do have one question. How do you get the PCM out?
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 04-Nov-02 AT 10:35 PM (EST)]Back out the 10mm bolt that holds the big connector on the computer, then remove the 2 nuts that hold the computer in the firewall. Then it just slides out into the engine compartment.
Why do you need to pull it?
BTW Axle 18 means 3.08 open diff. H8 would mean 3.08 Trac-Lock (limited slip).
>I have a 95 Bronco, 5.8 L , E4OD with a B&M electronic
>#####k kit, 3.55 posi front and rear with BFG 33 / 12.5 on
>all 4 corners pulling low 13's in 2WD and high 13's in 4WD.
>With a K&N filter and the rest is bone stock at 140K miles.
>It will do it at any time. I'm sitll getting 15 to 18 miles
>to the gallon. I don't know if it makes a difference that
>it's a California truck. It has no problem smoking the
>tires. I do have one question. How do you get the PCM out?
Are you talking 13's in the quarter mile? Ive gotta be missing something. Stock 5.8's that are new run low 17's and very high 16's if your extremely lucky. Just checking cuz a K & N on a worn out engine is not going to drop that 4 seconds.